Wednesday, 18 May 2011

Abandon all Hope!!

Ferry from Tobermory to Arnamurchan
Although we woke to a dry but very windy morning, the forecast is for torrential rain and gale force winds in the Western Isles, with an improving picture further South. In fact, parts of the South East are suffering the worse droughts in 35years!

We caught the early ferry from Tobermory to Ardnamurchan, one of the most inaccessible and solitary places in Britain. Ardnamurchan, Sunart, Moidart, Morvern and Knoydart are spectacular places to be alone! Single-track, very rough roads, one road travelling for miles and miles, around lochs and glens, with hardly any habitation. Every twist and turn in the road gave a different view. Sometimes across Loch Sunart and Loch Shiel, then across the sea to Muck and Eigg,and then out towards the pretty Arisaig peninsular. After some time driving around the Peninsular, we arrived at Lochailort, and decision time- north-west to Mallaig and stick with our original plan of journeying north to our much-loved Skye, or east to Fort William and then south, and abandon our plans. With the wind building and rain starting to fall again, south it had to be!!! What a shame! Skye and Applecross and the Pass of the Cattle would have to wait for next year!
Lunch stop

We kept driving on and on down the motorways (with messages advising to slow down because of strong winds), hoping for an improvement in the weather. We cheered up when we realised that the Lakes and particularly, Borrowdale, were do-able in time for a pie and a pint in the local pub! Forecast for tomorrow in this part of Britain, sunny with occasional showers. Brilliant! Cask beer, home-made steak pie and chips, and a walk up Haystacks and Innominate Tarn, beloved of Wainwright and where his ashes were scattered, in the sunshine, which we haven't seen for nearly ten days! Things were looking up!

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