Meeting the Family

Reunion with family in Novato, San Francisco

the balcony at Andrews and Lizzies

Another walk around the leafy and very chilly streets of Chicago, before we make our way down to the airport.  The temperatures had plummeted overnight, and a mere 8deg this morning.
The journey time to San Fran is a comfortable 4 1/2 hours, but with 2 hours time difference  it was about 6.30 pm, as we left in the hire car.  Unfortunately we were stuck in all the rush hour traffic, got a bit lost and ended up skirting the bay, and finally drove over the Golden Gate Bridge in the dark, so couldn't see anything.  Finally arrived at the the apartment at 7.40pm!  Lovely to see everyone again and after a brief moment's shyness, Lily was at ease with us.  She seems to have grown a few inches since we last saw her and accompanies most of what she does with a little babbling commentary.  Adorable!  She cuddled up next to us on the sofa, and sat on our knees.
The new apartment in Novato, north of San Fran, is in a much quieter area, surrounded by pine trees, and overlooking a house with a small holding, with apple trees, a large fig tree and other fruit trees.  All the buildings in Novato are one or two storeys high, and you can see small hills rising up in the distance.  Very leafy and quite quiet.  The shops are individual and attractive, rather than just functional.  The cheaper brands like Ross and Target are out of town, and a short drive away.  There are numerous attractive restaurants and coffee shops.  I made a note to return to one of the cafes for a pecan pumpkin pancake.  They do the sweet stuff so well!!

On Saturday am., we all walked down to the Main Street in Novato for a Halloween gathering, put on by the shops and community.  All the children, of all ages, from babies to adults were dressed in fancy dress.  Lizzy borrowed a pumpkin costume from a friend for Lily to wear, with a cute little hat.  Shopkeepers were handing out sweeties, lollies, toothbrushes and even little books to fairy princesses, ghosts, cartoon characters and little cute pumpkins!  A trip to a superb Wholefoods Shop, was followed by a Mediterranean lunch, cooked by Andrew and Lizzy, - pimientos, meatballs, dried ham, cheese, dates in bacon, figs and tortilla.  They really spoilt us!  The afternoon was hot and sunny, about 28deg, but the flat gets all the sun in the living areas , whilst the bedrooms face north and stay nice and cool.  The architecture is interesting, less concrete and more wooden, clapperboarding.  Almost Wells Fargo style, outpost town, with wooden terraces and porches.

US Trip Oct 2012

USA trip October 24- November15  2012

The Cloud

Actually I came over to visit the family on my own in March, but it's our first trip together this year.  The family came over for a few weeks and stayed with us in August, whilst renewing visa, and it was great to be back together again in the UK.  Particularly special as I now have wonderful memories of Lily wandering around the garden, picking the heads off flowers, climbing the steps in search of more blackberries, standing on the platform at the top of the garden and shouting down to us, spending time with great grandma and visiting great grandparents in Lancashire - the list goes on!
The decision to fly via Chicago started off with a need to avoid the four hour journey to Heathrow and the following eleven hour flight.  Although longer flight time overall, at least we would break up our journey with two nights in Chicago.  Ian's been there before, but it would be the first time for me.  Much more than a diversion, we instantly felt relaxed and at ease in the city.  It is beautiful, with the trees all yellow and red, several open spaces and parks.  The city is particularly good for walking and cycling, with paths running for miles along the river and the shores of the mighty Lake Michigan- more like a sea than a lake!
Famous for its impressive skyscrapers, it has four of the biggest eight skyscrapers in the USA.  The city feels quite small and compact, and most places we wanted to visit were within walking distance of our Holiday Inn Express, the Hotel Cass, in the main shopping area off Michigan Ave.
The first day we walked down to the lake front and along the lovely river walk, past the Trump Tower, and on to the John Hancock Tower(second tallest).  You ascend the 94 floors in a few seconds, with ears popping on the way up! The views over the city are amazing.

Chicago

The second day started early, wide awake at 5.30am, we bought a ticket to go around the loop on the train which runs above the road and then walked back through Millennium Park to marvel at the installation, "Cloud" , by Anish Kapoor.  A massive, highly polished steel cloud shape, sitting in the square, in which you can see reflections of the sky and clouds passing overhead and passers by gazing at it.  Absolutely awesome.
Back to the river, and we'd booked to go on a boat trip, about which Ian had heard good reviews, a guided tour of the architecture of Chicago from the river.  So what's there to learn about skyscrapers - they're very high and that's it!  How wrong could I be!  One of the most informative 90 minutes on Art Deco, Gothic, Modernist architecture, as we floated gently along the river, staring upwards.  We learnt of how modern architecture, like the Aqua building, designed by a local woman, manages the stresses and strains of winds in an aesthetic way, so wavy open balconies act like fins and break up the destructive force of wind, and look beautiful!  We both said we'd do this trip again, because it was so fascinating.  We'd missed the city by night yesterday, because we'd been awake for 18 hours and were in bed by 7pm, so went back to the hotel for a snooze for an hour, with the intention of staying up until dark!  We'd been lucky so far, it had been bright, sunny and very warm, unseasonably warm 80deg f.  But a blast of cold north air was forecast to bring heavy rain and a drop of 30deg f tonight, as we set off to Keefers Restaurant, one of the top 20 steak restaurants in town.  I had a delicious steak salad and Ian had fillet, with a delicious grilled octopus salad for starter.  We hurried back to the hotel through the chilly wind and rain. Well done we'd managed to stay up until 9.30 pm!

Col de la Madeleine

Col de la Madeleine In a couple of weeks time, Wiggins et al will be charging through La Bathie on the the same route we are taking today, up the Col. Absolutely sweltering heat last night. Managed to find a curious site, very few and far between here, just off the autoroute, behind a truckers stop. Very popular with a group of French people, who said they returned here every year, staying for two to four months. Now there's quite a bit to do if you're keen on cycling and walking, but I could n"t stay here for two nights, let alone months! Sat with my feet in a bucket of cold water, trying to bring my temperature down. At which point, our enterprising French neighbour came across with a product his friend, from the Pas de Calais, was selling. Basically smelt and had the same effect as Fiery Jack! It turned out that some of them were traders, selling their wares at local markets. They were very friendly, but bored, and seemed intrigued by us and our comings and goings! The night was extremely hot, only cooling in the middle of the night. Promised myself that the col was out of the question in this heat! Very noisy night, situated so close to the motorway. Woke in the cooler morning, determined to do the Col, as it was likely to be our last trip into the high mountains. Set off at about 8am again, as the day was forecast to be another steaming one. At this point, it's worth mentioning that back home, they have had the wettest April, May and June, since1910, when records began, coinciding with the announcement of a hosepipe ban in parts of UK! Col de la Madeleine was a classic climb, which we were pleased to have done. Caught up with Ian, on his way back down, with 6km to go. The route climbs steeply up through the trees, through Bonneval and other villages, before climbing steeply again up the hill and onto the summit. Shame that the views were marred by steamy conditions, and the summits of the surrounding mountains looked bleached! But savoured the descent, knowing it was likely to be the last mountain descent for some time! 15mls of ascent, av 6%, 5000ft actual climbing. 45 miles in total, from site. A fast cycle 40mins down the road to La Bathie. Glad we explored here, because I was ready to write it off as a busy, industrial area, with motorway running through and massive cement and gravel works nearby. But 15 mins cycle down the road are little old villages, lived in rather than empty, and stunning hills and mountains. On returning, another quick shower, farewell to the neighbours, who have chosen to stay most of the summer here, and brief drive down the road to Annecy, to a site with a swimming pool!

Beaufort

Mont Blanc from Saisies

Beaufort 2012 Another very hot day forecast, so up at 7am as usual, and cycling by 8.30am! Ian was going up Col de Joly, via Col de Saisies, and me reliving the ascent of the Cormet de Roselend, but from much lower down than I'd done it before from les Sources, 4000ft ascent, 12.5 miles, average gradient 6.6%. Enjoyed the climb up through the trees, and the view of the Lac du Roselend. Felt strong as a climbed up to the summit and then descended to the lac, across the barrage and then back up the steep little ascent to Col du Pre. An omelette at the restaurant at the top, expensive and not really catering for cheapskate cyclists like me, but with great views towards Mt Blanc and the curious perpendicular mountain, PierraMenta. Down into Areche, again with lovely views over meadows, filled with wildflowers, and pretty chalets, cow bells tinkling and flies buzzing over head! Ian had a fast ascent of Les Saisies but found the ascent of Joly tiring. Back for a rest pm., catch up on blog etc. Tomorrow, Saisies for me, with a shorter day, returning via Hauteluce. Ian deciding to do what I did today. Have you noticed, we don't do much together! Ps ...did Saisies in 1hr 32mins, and worked hard all the way to the top. Lovely views of Mont Blanc, with the summit covered in cloud. Another blisteringly hot day today, 34deg! So had to get out cycling by 8am. Back in time for a quick shower, and drove down the valley to our next cycle venue, La Bathie, near Albertville, where the Tour goes on its way up to Col de la Madeleine.

Tour de France Etape

Col du Mollard

Saint Jean de Maurienne and Col du Glandon, Col du Mollard aka Tour de France 2012 Drove over the Col du Telegraphe on a wet, misty morning and landed on St Jean de Maurienne. We'd been through here last year on a long, miserable road section on the way to the Telegraphe, and I just remember that I couldn't wait to get this bit over with. We'd dropped steeply and precariously down into this concrete jungle. Massive infrastructure, roads, hydroelectric dams, thundering river, a working, large town. St Jean was a good base but I didn't expect much from it! Wrong! After two nights there, I would feel very differently! Both decided to have today off, in view of the weather, and what the cycling we had planned for the coming days. So we pitched the van at the excellent municipal campsite, Camping des Grands Cols. Very friendly and efficient staff and excellent facilities. Bread could be ordered each morning, bar and snacks open pm. We wandered into town and walked the St Jean way around the cathedral, and admin buildings, following little pointing finger studs in the pavement. But the town itself is not greatly interesting, apart from the fact that this year it hosts the Tour de France. They go from Albertville up the Col de Madeleine, from La Chambre up the Col du Glandon, onto the Croix de Fer, down to St Sorlin, across to the Col du Mollard, down to St Jean, then finishing on the summit of the ski village of La Toussire. After an evening spent "enjoying" the delights of Jersey News on our neighbours radio!, we set off down the six mile main road to La Chambre. Busy and intimidating with lorries, it soon came to an end in green, rural, old villages. From there the road works it's way, relentlessly climbing following the river Glandon, through little villards, to the Chef Lieu, St Alban des Villards. Time to take a breath as the road flattens off for a kilometre, before climbing continually up through the meadows eventually reaching the Col du Glandon. The last three kilometres are nasty, 10, 11 and finally 10%!!! Chatted to some of a group of French guys from Alsace on the way up, and kept passing and being passed by some of them. They even asked me if I'd like to join them, taking pity on a lone woman! As usual, Ian's doing a similar route but at a different "cadence", ie. faster! The rest of the final ascent from Glandon to Croix de Fer is easy, as the road sweeps round at a gentle gradient. Time for a buttty, hot chocolate, and take in the views, not quite as extensive as a few days ago, because of cloud cover. Then the high speed descent through St Sorlin, into the Arvan valley, on to St Jean d'Arves, and then climbing up through pretty, old wooden chalets perched on the sides of meadowland, Belleville, les Rieux and La Villette, with chickens roaming free in the gardens! Another climb onto La Mollard, but a glorious circuit. Time to pause and take in the views over the Belledonne mountains and the Massif de la Vanoise. There's a notice board at the top, telling one of the fables handed down, before TV and Radio killed the art of story-telling. It tells of a labourer who bought a new mule and took it up the Le Mollard, from a village right in the bottom. Half way at Gevoudaz, the mule started to shake and tremble, and the man told the mule that he hoped he hadn't made a mistake buying him. He promised he would make an offering of 5sous at the chapel, if the mule managed to get him up the mountain. The mule did so, and the man cheered at having got up Le Mollard, and not having had to spend his 5 sous, at which point, so the fable goes, the mule dropped down dead!! You must always keep your promises, especially if they involve chapels, sacred offerings and mules! Anyway, back to the route, now descending ferociously steeply. Hands suffering from brakeitis, forgetting to breathe, and balls of feet killing, trying to keep sore ar..e off saddle, whilst careering down lumpy road all the way directly into St Jean. That's me done for the day, 6700ft ascent, 40 miles. Amazing to think that the "tourers" do that plus Madeleine first, and then climb again all the way up Toussire. Ian finished there himself, and was chuffed but cream-crackered when he got back! I'm saving myself for tomorrow. I've persuaded Ian to do a slight detour and head for Beaufort from the east via Modane, Val d'Isere and Bourg St Maurice, so that I can experience going over another major pass between France and Italy, the Col d'Iseran, at 2764m, one off the highest passes, depending on where you stand on La Bonette. Now, we cheated really, doing it the shortest way up, already at a significant height when we set off from Bessans, near Bonneval, where the recognised climb starts. Only 8 miles, height gained is nearly 1000m, average gradient of 7.3%, and max of 10.5% . That's the stats, but the reality is a beautiful ascent up to the plat, where it flattens off slightly, and then through the tunnel of the Pont de l'Ouiletta, with views over glaciers towering above Bonneval. I met up with Ian descending, about 4kms from the summit. He was on his way down to collect the van, having parked up at Bessans. Time for a celebratory hot chocolate at the summit, complete with the usual motorcyclists and Dutch cyclists!

Col de L'Iseran

 After Ian picked me up from the summit, it was back down the other side to Val d'Isere and Bg St Maurice. A couple of hours later we were approaching Beaufort and our lovely site at Les Sources where we've been each year. Horreur! The site was closed. Tourist Info told me that they had stopped doing the site, but were alive and well and enjoying their retirement in Beaufort. Ah well! The municipal site down the road out of town would be fine. Actually very nice, but extremely hot day and desperate for shade!

Col du Galibier

Relaxing at Col de Lauteret

Valloire to Col du Galibier Once Ian had returned from a speedy ascent of Col d'Ornon, we set off on the short journey to the town of Valloire, in the region of the Haute Savoie. A grassy campsite, Camping de Sainte Thecle, near the centre. There's not much in town, being yet another ski village, deserted in the summer, with not much atmosphere. But it's the best place to cycle up the Col du Galibier from, a much shorter but steeper journey than from Bourg d'Oisan. After a rest day, I set off at 8.30am, getting a head start on Ian, both of us having to pause for a short time whilst sheep were herded across the road! A lovely sunny morning, with a slight nip in the air.

Kilometer markers

 A steep climb out of Valloire, and then out through the hamlet of Bonnenuit, onto the Plan Lachat, before climbing steeply up to Les Granges, and the farming cooperatives of Beaufort cheese, although we're about 50 miles from Beaufort itself. Still climbing up to the cafe near the tunnel, where cyclists then continue on up to the col summit. Feeling strong and comfortable, having reached the top in 2hrs 2mins, it seemed to soon to return to Valloire, and the views were spurring me on to spend more time at altitude. Nothing for it, but to follow Ian's suggestion and continue over the top and down to Col de Lauteret, about 8kms away. A coffee and a portion of tarte aux myrtilles and then it was back up the way I'd just come down, back up to the top of Col du Galibier for the second time. I was a bit worried that I'd bitten off more than I could chew, but was pleased that I didn't find the return climb too strenuous, but had to work hard on the last kilometre, which is 10.5%. Over the top for the second time and then an exhilarating descent down the mountain, all the way to Valloire, and a beer at the van! Really chuffed, having climbed 1800m and more importantly feeling good. Now I've climbed three of the highest passes, Col d'Agnello (2700m), Col de la Bonette (about 2700m) and Col du Galibier (about 2600m). The training up Mont Ventoux has definitely paid off, and I'm so thrilled with my "granny" gear, which has made all the difference between struggling and enjoying.

La Berarde

Not the only with a sore ass!

La Berarde Some days you feel great, but not today. Yesterday's efforts really told! Ian remembered a trip he did from La Berarde to La Grave, on a walking trip with Keith and friends about 35years ago, and he was impressed by the remoteness of the place. Steve and Ali, campers opposite us, had just come back from walking there and were thrilled by the fact that La Berarde is right in the thick of the Ecrins mountains. It was an old shepherding village, literally at the end of the road. 20 miles to a beautiful cul-de-sac. You take the road to Briancon, and then come off at Le Clapier, following the road to Venosc and St Christophe. The road climbs steeply 11% over 3kms. As the road hairpins up to St Christophe, you can see the white-water rafters on the churning river Veneon. The Veneon Valley is spectacular, and the road climbs steadily and more easily up to L Berarde. Time for a small beer and take in the snowy mountain scene. The majestic SW slopes of the Ecrins reach 4102m, wonderful and quiet. Because there's no Col as such to conquer, you don't get hoards of motor-cyclists. Because it's a long cul-de-sac, you don't get much traffic. Consequently, it's mainly cyclists, and not many of them, so lovely and quiet. A shorter day, today, only 4hours in the saddle!

St Christophe dOisans

Would definitely repeat this ride!