We had to be in Allemont, in the Isere area of the Parc des Ecrins, for the Vaujany cycle race, we were both entered for. For Ian, it's just a preparation for the Marmotte, and he has done the Vaujany before. For me it was my first French cycle epreuve or sportive. Just had a bit of a warm-up cycle down into nearby Bourg d'Oisan and then reccy the last 10kms culminating in the steep climb into Vaujany, for the "mountain top" finish. Not quite but still steep averaging over 9% for 6kms into the finish. Registered and then rested ready for the race. Ian warned me that the forecast didn't look good. Rain all day and lots of it!
It poured with rain all night and we sprang a leak again in the van! Got up at 6am to the sound of heavy rain! The thought of not turning up never crossed my mind, even as we set off, downhill, at 20mph down the Sechilliennes valley. Dark and gloomy. Street lights on. Couldn't look up because hard rain was belting my face. Was wearing all the clothes I carried, free arm warmers(I was given on entry), vest, leg warmers and cagoule. Energy bars and gels and carb drinks. Some cyclists already cycling back, after 10miles. Never considered doing the same. At the foot of the Alpe du Grand Serre, it struck me that I was soaked to the skin and cold, and unless the rain eased off, it wasn't going to get any better! A good 15km climb up Grand Serre with a gradient of 7%. Ideal for keeping moving at a good pace and warming up a bit. Climbed through surreal forest landscape with swirling mists and poor visibility. Really atmospheric. Just getting warmer when we hit the top and started the very long and very cold descent into the Valbonnais valley. Normally fantastic views but not today! Really cold. Food stop in Valbonnais and then the climb up to Col d'Ornon, which is not too bad from this side. Still raining but not as heavily. Not too steep but it goes on a bit! Starting to warm up again nicely, ready for the cold descent to the main road to Bourg. A steady climb back and then the stinky finish up to Vaujany. Sun decided to poke out for a few minutes as I crossed the line. Glad to have finished. 69miles, 8000' climbing in 6hrs24, including stops. Silver time, and only 7mins outside Gold time! They allow you more time for being a female and then for 50-59yrs. Maybe they realise you need more "wee" stops over a certain age! First in that category, out of three!! Not bad, bearing in mind time lost on slower descents in the foul weather. Maybe next time. Ian did really well having improved on his previous time, in spite of the weather, 4hrs 59. Amazing. Third in old gits category!
Wednesday, 2 July 2014
Veynes
Weather still unsettled so headed slightly SW for 30 odd miles to Veynes for slightly easier climbs, slightly better weather and to explore another new area, although not far from Serres, where we were a few days ago. Site is Camping Solaire about a mile from Veynes. Beautiful facilities but not really open! Still cleaning and repairing ready for a very short season to come. Beautiful swimming pools not open till 1st July! Consequently off-peak price.
Picked up another great little map from the local tourist office showing several itinineraires partages from www.alpesvelo.net. 11 routes with varying degrees of distance and ascent. Picked the moderately difficult Boucle de Haut Buech, which sets off from Veynes and goes right past the campsite. 78 kms with 1093m of ascent. It's a delightfully fast and gentle cycle touring through farmland and quiet, little hamlets like Oze, Chabestan, Savournon at the base of Mt d'Aujour, on to Serres and Sigottier, Aspremont, la Baume, Montbrand and then along the Buech river to Veynes. Saw no other cyclists and only one car on most of the route. So quiet that I turned the bend at one time to catch a massive bird of prey, picking up and carrying away a 3' snake in its talons!
The following day, Ian planned to do a tougher climbing route into the Drome area, so I went my own way and set off on the Tour de Montagne d'Aujour, again reliably signposted every kilometre, 64kms from the campsite and 1127m ascent. From Chabestan to Le Saix on to the tiny hamlet of Chateauneuf d'Oze, over the impressive Col d'Espereaux along the side of a gorge, through Barcillonnette and then Monetier-Allemont. A spinach quiche warmed up by the Boulanger and a can of coke from the bar opposite for lunch. Just me and two elderly men chatting and drinking pastis in this quiet little town, and yet the bar-man was friendly and smiling. I've always found the French very pleasant and more than happy to chat, if you show any inkling of ability to speak French.
After lunch, along the quiet roads over the climb up the Col de Faye, covering some of the route we'd done before in a terrible thunderstorm, so it was nice to relax this time and enjoy the views! Down the beautiful valley of Savournon, Chabestan and then back to the campsite. A bit barren on the first half. The terrain is drier and rockier around here.
The following day we left for Allemont and drove through the Devoluy region. Looked very interesting with its forests, topped with impressive rocky peaks, gorges and rivers. Another area very close by worth coming back to. That's the difference this time, we've tried not to do too much driving, but still explore new areas closer by. The more we look, the more we realise how much there is to see.
Picked up another great little map from the local tourist office showing several itinineraires partages from www.alpesvelo.net. 11 routes with varying degrees of distance and ascent. Picked the moderately difficult Boucle de Haut Buech, which sets off from Veynes and goes right past the campsite. 78 kms with 1093m of ascent. It's a delightfully fast and gentle cycle touring through farmland and quiet, little hamlets like Oze, Chabestan, Savournon at the base of Mt d'Aujour, on to Serres and Sigottier, Aspremont, la Baume, Montbrand and then along the Buech river to Veynes. Saw no other cyclists and only one car on most of the route. So quiet that I turned the bend at one time to catch a massive bird of prey, picking up and carrying away a 3' snake in its talons!
The following day, Ian planned to do a tougher climbing route into the Drome area, so I went my own way and set off on the Tour de Montagne d'Aujour, again reliably signposted every kilometre, 64kms from the campsite and 1127m ascent. From Chabestan to Le Saix on to the tiny hamlet of Chateauneuf d'Oze, over the impressive Col d'Espereaux along the side of a gorge, through Barcillonnette and then Monetier-Allemont. A spinach quiche warmed up by the Boulanger and a can of coke from the bar opposite for lunch. Just me and two elderly men chatting and drinking pastis in this quiet little town, and yet the bar-man was friendly and smiling. I've always found the French very pleasant and more than happy to chat, if you show any inkling of ability to speak French.
After lunch, along the quiet roads over the climb up the Col de Faye, covering some of the route we'd done before in a terrible thunderstorm, so it was nice to relax this time and enjoy the views! Down the beautiful valley of Savournon, Chabestan and then back to the campsite. A bit barren on the first half. The terrain is drier and rockier around here.
The following day we left for Allemont and drove through the Devoluy region. Looked very interesting with its forests, topped with impressive rocky peaks, gorges and rivers. Another area very close by worth coming back to. That's the difference this time, we've tried not to do too much driving, but still explore new areas closer by. The more we look, the more we realise how much there is to see.
Tuesday, 24 June 2014
Boucle de L'Izoard
The Boucle d'Izoard
Had planned to climb the Col dIzoard, which I've never done before, but had seen signs for a Boucle, or circuit, which seemed more interesting than just climbing and then descending the same way. So we picked up some information from the Tourist Info, a great simple map with twelve proposed routes. Naturally the Boucle was the longest and the most strenuous. I'd have expected nothing less from Ian!
After a day's rest, when Ian went off on his own to explore Ceillac, I was up for the challenge. The route took us up the Queyras gorge again, but then you turn left off the road, before Queyras and start the ascent, up through pine woods, through the alpine meadows of La Chalp, on through the trees again, climbing higher, eventually to the Caisse Deserte before reaching the top of the Col. It's so strange to come out of the woods and on to a lunar landscape, similar to the top slopes of Ventoux. The scree extends for miles with the road twisting through it. Huge dolomite peaks rise straight up from the scree. Must look incredible in the snow.
A coca cola, and piece of foil-covered fruit loaf and then we were both together off down the descent into Briancon. We'd packed a sandwich for lunch and drank another coke in a bar before setting off on the return to Guillestre. The route very cleverly took us South crossing the main N94 road, through forests and villages, with minimal traffic, mostly downhill, but occasionally climbing with clear views of the Durance river and the valley floor below. A spectacular route of 62mls and 7000' of ascent.
Called in at the pub in Guillestre for a celebratory pint of Guinness, before heading back.
That night we were besieged by ants! Everywhere in the van, even in bed! 3am buttoned myself inside the duvet cover to try and get some respite. Moved the van to another pitch early in the morning. I then went off on a second attempt up to Risoul. When I got back, chuffed at knocking 10mins off my time, 1hr 16secs, was less chuffed to find thousands more ants in the van. Everywhere! Ian went off for some chemical help, put powder all around tyres, and sprayed all over inside of van. Emptied it of carpets, clothing, bedding, food, mostly everything! Sprayed and then cleaned the van thoroughly. Took all afternoon, which ought to have been rest time!
Slept like logs that night and no ants. Ian's new campagnolo wheels, ordered at a good price from Wiggle have arrived, so time to move on. I've been badgering him to buy some new wheels, ever since Lorenzo told us his story of how his wheel had "exploded" on him going uphill! Ian finally admitted that he had done a good deal of mileage on these wheels, and it could be time to change them. With visions of them and him exploding on a fast downhill section, he succumbed to ordering them express from Wiggle. They flew them to Marseille and then drove them to Guillestre, for £15!
Had planned to climb the Col dIzoard, which I've never done before, but had seen signs for a Boucle, or circuit, which seemed more interesting than just climbing and then descending the same way. So we picked up some information from the Tourist Info, a great simple map with twelve proposed routes. Naturally the Boucle was the longest and the most strenuous. I'd have expected nothing less from Ian!
After a day's rest, when Ian went off on his own to explore Ceillac, I was up for the challenge. The route took us up the Queyras gorge again, but then you turn left off the road, before Queyras and start the ascent, up through pine woods, through the alpine meadows of La Chalp, on through the trees again, climbing higher, eventually to the Caisse Deserte before reaching the top of the Col. It's so strange to come out of the woods and on to a lunar landscape, similar to the top slopes of Ventoux. The scree extends for miles with the road twisting through it. Huge dolomite peaks rise straight up from the scree. Must look incredible in the snow.
A coca cola, and piece of foil-covered fruit loaf and then we were both together off down the descent into Briancon. We'd packed a sandwich for lunch and drank another coke in a bar before setting off on the return to Guillestre. The route very cleverly took us South crossing the main N94 road, through forests and villages, with minimal traffic, mostly downhill, but occasionally climbing with clear views of the Durance river and the valley floor below. A spectacular route of 62mls and 7000' of ascent.
Called in at the pub in Guillestre for a celebratory pint of Guinness, before heading back.
That night we were besieged by ants! Everywhere in the van, even in bed! 3am buttoned myself inside the duvet cover to try and get some respite. Moved the van to another pitch early in the morning. I then went off on a second attempt up to Risoul. When I got back, chuffed at knocking 10mins off my time, 1hr 16secs, was less chuffed to find thousands more ants in the van. Everywhere! Ian went off for some chemical help, put powder all around tyres, and sprayed all over inside of van. Emptied it of carpets, clothing, bedding, food, mostly everything! Sprayed and then cleaned the van thoroughly. Took all afternoon, which ought to have been rest time!
Slept like logs that night and no ants. Ian's new campagnolo wheels, ordered at a good price from Wiggle have arrived, so time to move on. I've been badgering him to buy some new wheels, ever since Lorenzo told us his story of how his wheel had "exploded" on him going uphill! Ian finally admitted that he had done a good deal of mileage on these wheels, and it could be time to change them. With visions of them and him exploding on a fast downhill section, he succumbed to ordering them express from Wiggle. They flew them to Marseille and then drove them to Guillestre, for £15!
Guillestre
Guillestre
Back to the big hills, NE to Guillestre, in the Hautes Alpes, where we've been before, when Ian did the Route des Grandes Alpes a few years ago. Lovely site, Camping de St James, by the side of the glacial waters of the Guil. Canoeists are keen on the river Guil with its fast flowing, turbulent water. Saw a group from UK launching into river. Guillestre has many very old buildings, dating back to the 17th century, with painted frescos on the outer walls of the church. Very small, but a little more lively than it was when we were here a few years ago. Even managed to watch the England v Uruguay match, which we lost!
Back in the big mountains with a number to choose from. Set off separately for Col de Vars, but decided to climb to ski village of Risoul first. It features as the final climb in a stage of this year's Tour de France. Easier and shorter than the Alpe d'Huez, but very similar. Climb to 1850m with stunning views of the mountains which surround Guillestre and on up to Briancon. There's a striking Napoleonic fort on the hillside across from Risoul, perched high on a rock face.
Back down into Guillestre and then the start of the long climb up to the Col de Vars. The road twists and turns to start with, with a great view across to the Mademoiselle Coiffees, set in the forest opposite. There known as the Fairy Chimneys in English. Strange columns of rock, eroded over time, which stand about fifty foot tall, with darker rock caps on, shaped like hats. The tops are of one of the hardest rock, gabbro. Once the gabbro top erodes, the whole chimney breaks down rapidly. Had time to read about this as I stopped on a tough section of the climb to drink some water. Can't drink and breathe heavily at the same time!
The climb up through Vars village is the hardest bit, and then it easies up a bit near a Refuge Napoleon before climbing steeply over the last few kilometres. A great pit stop at the top, with a very friendly proprietor, a hot chocolate and then the fast descent back down the same way. Beautiful but found it hard. 42 mls. 6906' ascent.
The following day, we went up Col d'Agnel, on the border with Italy. At 2700m, it is the highest pass in this area. It starts off with 10miles of gradual climbing twisting along the Queyras gorge, going through Chateau Queyras, and then through the villages and alpine meadows, past another Refuge Napoleon, built for the infantry to defend the borders. The climb to the top is a stinker, with gradients of 10%+, for the last few kilometres. But climbing up on a road edged with high banks of snow and mountains all around gives you such a thrill, and a real sense of how high you've come!
Freezing at the top, but time to put on as many layers as you've managed to stick in your tiny back pockets. Nowhere to eat, so cereal bars and jam sandwich will have to do. Sit and take in the views of the Pain de Sucre mountain ridge and Monte Viso, 3841m, and the steep climb from the Italian side. Surrounded by Italian cyclists, chattering away, clearly delighted to be at the top. A fast descent all the way down to Ville-vielle, where I caught up with Ian for a coca cola. Cycled back into the brisk afternoon winds, which build up every afternoon in these valleys. 54mls and 6716' ascent.
Back to the big hills, NE to Guillestre, in the Hautes Alpes, where we've been before, when Ian did the Route des Grandes Alpes a few years ago. Lovely site, Camping de St James, by the side of the glacial waters of the Guil. Canoeists are keen on the river Guil with its fast flowing, turbulent water. Saw a group from UK launching into river. Guillestre has many very old buildings, dating back to the 17th century, with painted frescos on the outer walls of the church. Very small, but a little more lively than it was when we were here a few years ago. Even managed to watch the England v Uruguay match, which we lost!
Back in the big mountains with a number to choose from. Set off separately for Col de Vars, but decided to climb to ski village of Risoul first. It features as the final climb in a stage of this year's Tour de France. Easier and shorter than the Alpe d'Huez, but very similar. Climb to 1850m with stunning views of the mountains which surround Guillestre and on up to Briancon. There's a striking Napoleonic fort on the hillside across from Risoul, perched high on a rock face.
Back down into Guillestre and then the start of the long climb up to the Col de Vars. The road twists and turns to start with, with a great view across to the Mademoiselle Coiffees, set in the forest opposite. There known as the Fairy Chimneys in English. Strange columns of rock, eroded over time, which stand about fifty foot tall, with darker rock caps on, shaped like hats. The tops are of one of the hardest rock, gabbro. Once the gabbro top erodes, the whole chimney breaks down rapidly. Had time to read about this as I stopped on a tough section of the climb to drink some water. Can't drink and breathe heavily at the same time!
The climb up through Vars village is the hardest bit, and then it easies up a bit near a Refuge Napoleon before climbing steeply over the last few kilometres. A great pit stop at the top, with a very friendly proprietor, a hot chocolate and then the fast descent back down the same way. Beautiful but found it hard. 42 mls. 6906' ascent.
The following day, we went up Col d'Agnel, on the border with Italy. At 2700m, it is the highest pass in this area. It starts off with 10miles of gradual climbing twisting along the Queyras gorge, going through Chateau Queyras, and then through the villages and alpine meadows, past another Refuge Napoleon, built for the infantry to defend the borders. The climb to the top is a stinker, with gradients of 10%+, for the last few kilometres. But climbing up on a road edged with high banks of snow and mountains all around gives you such a thrill, and a real sense of how high you've come!
Freezing at the top, but time to put on as many layers as you've managed to stick in your tiny back pockets. Nowhere to eat, so cereal bars and jam sandwich will have to do. Sit and take in the views of the Pain de Sucre mountain ridge and Monte Viso, 3841m, and the steep climb from the Italian side. Surrounded by Italian cyclists, chattering away, clearly delighted to be at the top. A fast descent all the way down to Ville-vielle, where I caught up with Ian for a coca cola. Cycled back into the brisk afternoon winds, which build up every afternoon in these valleys. 54mls and 6716' ascent.
Serre South Circuit
Serres, the Buech valley, and the Gorge de la Meouge
Serre is a medieval town on the river Buech, about 30 miles SW of Gap. Thought we'd try and head for some better weather, with thunderstorms and heavy rain forecast. Located in the Provencale part of the Hautes-Alpes, there aren't any big passes of note, but loads of smaller passes, making for a different and still quite challenging cycling area.
Found a site up a forest track high above Serre. We spent some time positioning the van in the shade. We needn't have bothered! The following day we set off early intending a long day, with a lot of miles but much less climbing than usual. The morning was fine as we cycled at speed along a quiet road, all the way south to Orpierre, on to Laborel and then a lovely steady climb up to the Col de Perty, with gorgeous views of the Montagne de Chabre, 1312m. Left at St Auban sur l'Ouveze , left to Mevouillon, and then an enforced longer lunch break than normal, as it poured with rain. We shot into an unassuming local bar, the only one in Sederon, and ordered a coffee. As it continued to pour, I asked what the plat de jour was: veal, duck and filet mignon. We opted for the third choice, which came after a small salad with home-made goats cheese quiche. The filet looked like veal and tasted like lamb, and was delicious with a gently spiced couscous and deliciously flavoured spinach. Could have had a pudding of tarte au citron and choice of wine, but we were only half way round and opted for no pud and no wine, or we'd never get going again! Whilst we were there, more soggy cyclists dripped into the bar, no doubt having seen our bikes parked outside. 12euros each for a great lunch, which left us feeling satisfied but not uncomfortable and all good protein and carbs. Meanwhile it had stopped raining but the roads were absolutely soaked, so wet feet, wet bum, soaked within a few minutes. From Sederon, our furthest point south, in the Drome region, which we love, we cycled almost due East towards the Gorges de la Meouge. A lovely cycle down, but will have to try it the other way another time, because some of the best views of the rocks towering above the Gorges were behind us.
A quick coffee in Laragne-Monteglin, and then north through Lazer, Ventavon, with sky darkening all the time. Over the Col de Faye, 943m, with lightning flashing close by and thunder rumbling! Too frightened and soaked to enjoy what was clearly a stunning route. The rain was heavy and relentless. On to Savournon, on a pretty rural road and then the main road back to Serres, with lights on front and back, water running down our legs, arms and faces. Absolutely freezing and desperate to get back to the van and out of the lightning! Last mile steeply climbed up through the forest back to the van. Don't think I've ever got up quicker! Heater on, kettle on (blowing the sensitive electric connection!), wet clothes off and stacks of wet clothes and shoes hanging around the van, like a Chinese laundry! Still a good day's cycling, but wondering what happened to the heat of less than a week ago! 87miles and 5600' climbing, averaged 13.4 mph.
Serre is a medieval town on the river Buech, about 30 miles SW of Gap. Thought we'd try and head for some better weather, with thunderstorms and heavy rain forecast. Located in the Provencale part of the Hautes-Alpes, there aren't any big passes of note, but loads of smaller passes, making for a different and still quite challenging cycling area.
Found a site up a forest track high above Serre. We spent some time positioning the van in the shade. We needn't have bothered! The following day we set off early intending a long day, with a lot of miles but much less climbing than usual. The morning was fine as we cycled at speed along a quiet road, all the way south to Orpierre, on to Laborel and then a lovely steady climb up to the Col de Perty, with gorgeous views of the Montagne de Chabre, 1312m. Left at St Auban sur l'Ouveze , left to Mevouillon, and then an enforced longer lunch break than normal, as it poured with rain. We shot into an unassuming local bar, the only one in Sederon, and ordered a coffee. As it continued to pour, I asked what the plat de jour was: veal, duck and filet mignon. We opted for the third choice, which came after a small salad with home-made goats cheese quiche. The filet looked like veal and tasted like lamb, and was delicious with a gently spiced couscous and deliciously flavoured spinach. Could have had a pudding of tarte au citron and choice of wine, but we were only half way round and opted for no pud and no wine, or we'd never get going again! Whilst we were there, more soggy cyclists dripped into the bar, no doubt having seen our bikes parked outside. 12euros each for a great lunch, which left us feeling satisfied but not uncomfortable and all good protein and carbs. Meanwhile it had stopped raining but the roads were absolutely soaked, so wet feet, wet bum, soaked within a few minutes. From Sederon, our furthest point south, in the Drome region, which we love, we cycled almost due East towards the Gorges de la Meouge. A lovely cycle down, but will have to try it the other way another time, because some of the best views of the rocks towering above the Gorges were behind us.
A quick coffee in Laragne-Monteglin, and then north through Lazer, Ventavon, with sky darkening all the time. Over the Col de Faye, 943m, with lightning flashing close by and thunder rumbling! Too frightened and soaked to enjoy what was clearly a stunning route. The rain was heavy and relentless. On to Savournon, on a pretty rural road and then the main road back to Serres, with lights on front and back, water running down our legs, arms and faces. Absolutely freezing and desperate to get back to the van and out of the lightning! Last mile steeply climbed up through the forest back to the van. Don't think I've ever got up quicker! Heater on, kettle on (blowing the sensitive electric connection!), wet clothes off and stacks of wet clothes and shoes hanging around the van, like a Chinese laundry! Still a good day's cycling, but wondering what happened to the heat of less than a week ago! 87miles and 5600' climbing, averaged 13.4 mph.
Saturday, 21 June 2014
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