The Drome

Grignan, Drome Provencale.

New territory for us.  Tempted to shoot straight across to Bedoin in Provence, but the Drome region is in between and new to us.  Walked into Grignan from the campsite.  The  site is shaded by pine and holm oak trees, overlooking a field of lavender.  Very Provencale.  Grignan was the home of the Duc of Provence and beloved of the duchess, Marie Sevigne who was famous for writing copious letters to her daughter about her beloved home in Grignan, an ancient castle perched high above the town, where the rest of the peasants lived!  Vive la revolution!  A beautiful but empty, slightly sterile village dating back to the 15th century.  Beautifully restored but a bit of a showcase and very unreal.
The following day we cycled to Taulignan, another beautiful walled town with ancient ramparts, and on to Poet Laval, a Donjon dating back to the Chevalier Hospitaliers of the 14th century.  Presumably we got the word "dungeon" from the French, Donjon, a fortified building.  Esteemed as one of the most handsome villages in France.  A superbly restored building.  From there we cycled back on the Drome par Velo route to Grignan, a quiet and scenic route designated for cyclists.  40 odd miles in total, at a brisk pace because the terrain has sweeping rather than steep hills.  A pretty area with Provençal old towns dotted all over the wooded landscape.
We would have had a swim but Ian forgot his budgie smugglers (tight trunks beloved of he French) and was not allowed into the pool. This is true, his  swimming shorts are not "hygienic" and are regarded as casual shorts!
Only the French would consider discreet shorts to be more offensive than middle-aged men wearing something slightly less tight than thongs, with large tummies hanging over the top.  I know which I'd prefer!  Vive la Difference!

After another night in Grignan area, we moved on to Buis les Barronies, about thirty miles southeast.  But first we called in at Nyons, which we had read up on as an interesting place to visit on a rare day out of the saddle.  Nyons is quite a busy town, with lots of places of interest to visit, caves du vin, museums, old and new olive mills and the last remaining "scourtinerie" in France.  We sought this out, well it is a bit of culture, involves a handicraft and is a dying art- right up my street!  We learnt that a "scourtin" is a beret shaped mat made from coarse, thick coconut fibre woven into dense bowl-shaped mats and used in the production of olive oil, though not any more!  The scourtins are filled with olives, once they've been soaked in brine and pricked all over with a roller covered in sharp points. Then they are stacked up on top of each other in a scourtin tower and then crushed by a press, to release the oil.  Now this is done by machines on a far greater scale, and the scourtins are now sold to crazy, curious women like me!  The woman who operated the machines to make the scourtins was a delight, and spoke some English, enough to help me make sense of what she was doing.  She explained that she had been making these for 25years, and that she operated the machines that her great grandfather used, and the machine was dated 1882.  One machine loaded up the two mats in a simple weft, and then the other more intricate machine was loaded with robust needles, which were pushed mechanically to create the warp, and then were ditched into a bucket.  A very simple machine, beautifully designed and engineered, to perform a fairly simple task.  But because of the nature of the materials involved, the rough thick fibres and the densely packed end product, the machines must have taken some of the back-breaking, hand-wrecking work involved.  Even so, the weaver showed us how rough her hands had been made, but it was clearly a skill she loved.  She took great pride in setting up the machines, and the excitement it produced in observers, like me.  Even Ian was interested!  She made placemats, rugs and larger floor coverings, baskets and bowls.  I bought a traditional scourtin, like the one I'd seen her weave for 22euros.  Both of us forgot our cameras, so we'll have to go back another time.  Right at the other end of town, we were told by the tourist info that we could find a museum about olive production, past and present, so we could learn more about the use of the scourtins, so off we went.  The Museum turned out to be a very chic wine and olive producer and shop, which had a room set aside for old olive mill artefacts, olive jars, presses, scourtins, much larger than mine, and pictures off how they were used, as described earlier.  We sat in the cool of the "theatre", listening to a film in French of the current method of olive oil production, full of complimentary, if overblown, language about the special quality of the land and climate, which produces this appellation controlle wine and oil.  To be fair they are quite right to shout about it, because it is a special blend of sun and geography around here!
Culture experienced, we set off for Buis les Baronnies in Drome Provençal.  Campsite ok.  Inexpensive but not very shady.

Photos

Alpe d'Huez twice!

Alpe d'Huez
Another steaming hot day as I set off up the Alpe d'Huez, with its 21 hairpins!  I've been "looking forward" to this all winter.  Lost half a stone in weight, and now on my new, though slightly heavier bike, long story, I was looking forward to posting a better time than last year.  Whether it was the heat, or having done such a lot of climbing and just being tired, I ended up taking four minutes more, so was pretty fed up.  1hr 36 mins.  Ah well, good days and not so good days!  It's fantastic having such a rubbish memory, and only remembering the feeling of euphoria at the top.  I'd forgotten how tough it is, and to finish at the top of Alpe d'Huez as they do in the Marmotte and the Tour de France, after a number of big climbs over the Galibier, Telegraphe, Croix de Fer etc is just mind-blowing!  You can't take it steadily, because you have no option but to keep pedalling, with gradients of 10% and 9% at times, but always over 8% for 14kms!  It's nasty!
A nicer way off rather than gripping your brakes all the way back the same way, is to climb a little up to Villard Reculas, along a lovely balcony route, high above the valley floor with beautiful views, and then five mile descent to the Allemont road again, and then the same flat run into Bourg as yesterday.  26 miles a shorter but steep climbing day today, but back early enough to be able to have lunch together and rest in the afternoon.  Ian had been on a different route climbing above Alpe d'Huez to the Col de Sarenne from Mizoens.  Came back saying it was hard but enjoyable.  Spent the afternoon tinkering with his brakes and fitting new brake blocks!
Determined to achieve my winter-made target of getting up Alpe d'Huez inside 1hr 30, I decided to do the climb again the day after tomorrow.  Ian was going up to La Berarde, quite a lot of climbing and further than what I wanted to do.  So I opted for Col d'Ornon just down the valley towards Allemont.  Another very hot day ahead, so set off before 9am.  The climb up the Ornon valley is one of the kindest so far, averaging about 6.5%.  What a delight!  No traffic, no motor cyclists, just peace and quiet!  Climbing up comfortably at a good pace, in the cool of the steep-sided valley, passing the little hamlets of Villard-Raymond, Oulles, and cycling through Ornon, I reached the top in good time and with energy to spare. Kept with some guys over the last kilometre to the top, who were from Sheffield and were doing the route we've done from here, all the way around to the Grand Serre and back up the long, busy main road through Sechiliennes to Bourg.  After a chat, I descended back down, passing dozens of cyclists coming up.  Back at the van after only about two hours cycling, to have plenty of rest before tomorrow.  Ian had had a good ride up to La Berarde, but had forgotten how much climbing there is in that circuit, but great views of the mountains all around.  Very hot afternoon, 34deg
The following day was forecast to be hot, but cloudy with rain forecast for lunchtime onwards.  Decided to move on to the Drome area, a few hours drive south, after we'd climbed Alpe d'Huez!  Couldn't sleep, and rather than waste the best, coolest part of the day for doing a tough climb, I got up at 6.30am and after a bowl of muesli was off up the climb by 7.15am!  Breathing heavily over the first few steepest sections, I was worried that this was going to be a waste of time.  If I didn't start to come better, I may as well turn around.  Unless I could improve on 4.5mph, which was my average when I did this two days ago for 1.36, then there was no chance of getting inside 1.30.  Starting to feel a bit less stressed, as the gradient steadies to a consistent 9%, and by using the hairpins, not as a place for a rest, but as a place to speed up a bit and push into the next rise in the road, I could see my speed averaging at 5.2 mph.  In with a chance!  With four hairpins to go, I changed my speedometer to register overall time, rather than average speed and was encouraged to see it reading 1:12.  Saw Ian on his way back down and he was surprised to see me so near to the top, so that spurred me on.  Had to really keep focused for the last few hairpins, but put a spurt on at the top.  1:29:36!  At last, inside 1:30.  The cooler morning conditions had helped to reduce my time by 7minutes, and I was pleased to achieve something I'd been aiming for all winter.  Maybe I'd got my new legs, after all the Cols we'd done.  The rest of my body must still be in the post, as I'm feeling like a discharging battery, a weird mixture of stronger but more tired!  I guess that's the problem.  At our age, we don't recover as quickly as you do when you're younger.
My second aim of a good time up Galibier would have to wait.  It's still closed, though might be open later this week!
Back down the hill, past thirty to forty riders toiling up it.  Going so early had been so quiet,  with only seeing two other cyclists.
Off to the supermarket to provision up and then on the road towards Valence, and the area known as the Drome Provencale, about 50 miles south.  Not been here before so looking forward to pastures new.

Col de la Croix de Fer (again)

A good day out on my favourite Col, Col de la Croix de Fer
Another hot day as we set off up the road to Allemont.  Temperature rose to 34deg.  So we set off early.  A long, steep climb up to La Rivière, and drop down into the valley, with another stinker of a climb up to the barrage reservoir.  A steady stream of Dutch and English cyclists toiling up to the alpine meadows, with the first of two photographers wait to take your photos and shove a ticket into your sweaty palm as you churn past!  There is a steady gradual climb and then descent into the meadows of Les Sybelles, from where you can see the Hotel du Glandon, nestled under the Col du Glandon, and the road up to the Croix de Fer sweeps round the hill, climbing at a lovely gradient all the way up to the summit.  Apart from the annoying presence of motor cyclists zipping past at regular intervals, sometimes crossing onto your side of the road, the prospect of the next five or six miles fills you with excitement, rather than the weariness you sometimes feel after more than three hours on the bike.  Approaching the top, you get wonderful glimpses of the two pics des Arves in the distance, shooting straight up into the blue sky.
At the cafe at the top, time for a coke and a chat with a lovely father and son from Bolton, who had been with me most of the way.  They had just come from a week in the Pyrenees, and had been to most of the peaks we'd been to.  They too arrived yesterday in very hot weather, and a distinct feeling of anti-climax as you make your way up the road to Bourg en Oisans, past the quarries and hydroelectric power stations of the Romanche valley, but were much happier once they arrived!  Chatted with a large group from USA, to a guy from Texas, who comes here every year.  They seemed to have a guide with them, and their company set up a picnic table in the snow!
After even more time gazing at the mountains of Les Arves, I finally set off on the descent by the same road.  I'd met up with Ian just before the final three kilometres, so he was doing his own thing, and me mine, which suits us both!  The descent is delightful, with views up to the Chaine de Belladonne mountains, on approaching La Riviere.  Top up the water bottle at the village fountain and then a speedy but long descent through Allemont and along the road to Bourg.  Just over five hours and fifty two miles.  A long day but very enjoyable.  Ian had also climbed up to Villard Reculas on the way back, but found it very hard.  Should have taken his time a bit more, like I did.  It was much more fun!
Back to an oppressively hot afternoon, so cooled off in the pool.  Went out for a meal at La Romanche restaurant in town, but had to set off early to walk slowly because it was so hot!

Last day in Pyrenees

Last day in Pyrenees for a while

We left Luz after a chat with our very attractive proprietaire of the site, Cathay.  She speaks more English than she did two years ago, and is just as beautiful, tanned and slim.  She appears now and again, but you never see her doing chores around the site, and the facilities are haphazard to say the least, and no hot water apart from the showers and no loo roll.  But she is adorable, friendly and impossible to fall out with.  She has just undergone surgery on her back, and desperate to get well again. She asked where we'd been, and said that the next we come, we will go up the Tourmalet together, as she cycles as well.  We made it a date, she gave us a good deal on the site fees, and then we left for an Aire in Pierrefitte, just down the road to Lourdes.  Ian chose to do the Hautecam, and I set off up the Cauterets valley to the Pont d'Espagne.  The Hautecam is well-known for being steep with an average of 8% over 14km and a max of 11%.  Not for me.  The gradual climb up to Cauterets was a joy, with views up to the mountains dividing Spain and France.  The last five kms were tough, with max of 11%, but not too far to the Pont d'Espagne, which is stunning.  A small stone bridge, with a gushing waterfall powering down towards it.  A cable car then takes you up into the mountains.  Beautiful.  Then the descent following the turbulent river back down the valley to the Aire, and the waiting crepe van, which I'd visited a couple of days earlier.  Yes, two more Nutella crepes to take away, please! Feeling tired after five consecutive days of 3000' + climbs, so time for a rest.  Well, not really.  A three hour drive took us to our overnight stay to a site not far from Toulouse, at Nailloux,near a lake, with bull frogs serenading all evening, but at least no thundering waterfalls!  Then off early the following heading for the Alps, arriving at 3.30pm ish.
The further we got from the Pyrenees, the weather improved, and the roads became much busier!  The site, A La Rencontre du Soleil, is very well cared for, but 35euros per night.  You have to pay for it being in the hub of the big alpine climbs.  Never mind, hot water to wash up in and toilet paper too, wow what luxury!

Col de Tourmalet

Rain and thunderstorms forecast for this afternoon, as we awoke to a misty morning.  We set off just before 9am to climb the Tourmalet, the highest road pass in the Pyrenees.  We already knew that it would be closed near the summit, and heard in the local bar, from Belgian cyclists that it would be two weeks before it would be open.  One of two ascents begins straight out of Luz St Sauveur.  Not long before I was passed by our Belgian friends!  But Ian managed to overtake the three who were in the bar, but couldn't catch their friends, who they described as pros, who watched what they ate and drank, and weren't in the bar!  I suspect there's a connection there!  An overall gradient of 7.4%, with a couple of kms of 8 and 9%. Ideal!  We quickly came out of the mist into glorious sunshine and spectacular views up to the snow-capped peaks.  We both enjoyed the ride, and felt quite strong but tired.  After nearly a couple of hours I reached the barrier across the road, saying risk of avalanche.  Followed Ian and the Belgians on up the road nearer to the summit, but with another 4 kms to go and another 600' to go, we all had to admit defeat and turn around, as a snow plough was busy trying to chip away at the snow.
Just time for a silly photo of me in front of a statue to Octave Lapize, in honour of the first rider to reach the summit in 1910, having walked much of the way, so they say.
The descent to Luz was lovely, not too steep to enjoy, and we could see the mist in the valley deepening to a dense fog and creeping closer.  At Barreges, we were in the fog and felt a sudden drop in temperature, by at least 10 deg C, so the last part into Luz was cold, such a shock from sweating up the climb an hour or so earlier!
Back early today and time for a rest in the afternoon, for a change.  Only 21 miles and 4000' ascent, and starting to feel less tired and sore, but still four more cols to go before the magic ten, when we get a new pair of legs and lungs!!!

Cirque de Gavarnie

Cirque de Gavarnie and another blocked route!
A beautiful day ahead and we opted for the road up the valley to the Cirque de Gavarnie and hopefully on to Col de Boucharo, which we'd not climbed before.  The 10 mile or so continual climb up to Gavarnie gave us a chance to warm up stiff legs.  The Cirque is a geologists dream, a six kilometre semi-circular wall of 3000m peaks, formed by glacial erosion, and home to France's tallest waterfall, the 423m Grande Cascade de Gavarnie.  With gradients of 8 and 9% and up to 11%, the climb up the Vallee des Especieres was more tiring than we expected, in the hottest day so far, about 25deg.  With 5km to go from the ski station, the route was well and truly "barree", with a wall of snow across the road.  Sheep were the only creatures getting through!  So a lovely cycle all the way back down to Luz, into a warm wind.  32miles and 4000' of ascent.
Now all the cycling books tell you that the main climbs should all be open from May.  The locals have all told us that they have, like UK, experienced a long, cold winter and not much of a rise in temperature in Spring.  So it shouldn't have surprised us that the Cols are closed.  It'll be interesting to see whether the Alpine summits are blocked.  The Pyrenean ascents aren't as popular and maybe there isn't quite the same need to clear the summits.