Photos in Pyrenees

Spot the difference
 

Tormalet Pyrenees
 

Thats not the top - come up here!
 

Cirque de Gavarnie

Santiago in the rain and then sun in the Pyrenees

Santiago de Compostela in the rain
Santiago boasts that it has some of the worst weather in Spain, and actually sells itself on the fact that the ancient cathedral and tiny narrow streets look better dripping with rain, with the water-spouting gargoyles glistening in the rain and the rain-soaked moss and lichen adding to the sparkling atmosphere.  Well that's all very well if you come from the red hot centre of Spain, or other places like La Mancha and Extremadura, but when you come from rain-soaked UK, and are not a religious pilgrim, or an enthusiastic long distance walker, it loses its attraction.  So we did what we usually do, us heathens!  We found a lively lunchtime bar with a delicious array of tapas laid out in front of us and sat there and were waited on, like eager puppies!  Navajas, or razor clams, well why not, vieiras or scallops, well definitely, seeing as how the emblem of the pilgrims is the scallop shell. But no percebes, or barnacles, which we've heard so much about how they are a particular delicacy.  It's a bit like the conch in Florida, it's a delicacy but you'll have a devil of a job finding it!
A wander around Santiago, which is a very atmospheric place, especially when you've eaten and had a few beers.  Full of people finishing their epic walk and loved ones taking photos.  There was also a cycle event finishing or starting, we couldn't work out which, but the commentator was very enthusiastic, and the cyclists looked so fit and young and tiny!

The following day we tried to give the area another shot and set off for a cycle around the headland of Santa Cruz towards Pontedueme, but rain stopped play and after about 20 miles we gave it up as a bad job.  Soon onto busy main roads, with the attractive coastline becoming more inaccessible!
The following day we decided, madly to leave Galicia and head back towards Santander, some 300+ miles.  It was raining so what do you do but try and get away!  Now our friend,Checho, from our favourite place in the world, Can Punyetes, in Alcudia, is from Pontedeume, so we thought we'd call in seeing as we were in the area.  It was good to visit a proper lived in town in Galicia, with an old bridge across the wide Eume river. It was market day and a buzz about the place.  Even the long- awaited percebes were for sale, but I didn't have a clue what to do with them.  The stall-holder kept saying "Mariscos", yes and I still don't know what to do with them.  It was safer to buy some honey!  Could have bought a shirt for Ian for 3euros!
Back on the journey to Santander. We decided to see what the weather was like nearer the coast, and called in at a quaint, old fishing village, Cudillero, nestled in the cliffs, like Mousehole in Cornwall.  In fact the coastline reminded us of Cornwall, with its impressive, rocky coastline.  It was cold and rain was forecast, so we decided not to stay, but to continue on to Luz Saint Sauveur in the Pyrenees.  But we felt that we'd definitely come back here again, maybe when there was a remote chance of sunshine!  It wasn't that we didn't want to stay, but after five days of minimal cycling, we wanted to get back on the bikes again.
  By 3pm we were camped up at Les Cascades in Luz, where we stayed two years ago, when Ian did his long trip in the Pyrenees.  Desperate to get out cycling, we opted for the stiff climb up Luz Ardiden, only 18miles return, but a toughie, with 1000m climbing.  Average gradient 7.5% it's a bit of a shocker, at the beginning of a trip, but the only way to practise is to do it.  A local pizza cafe owner told me that they say it takes 10 cols before you start to feel stronger, so only 8 more to go!  Because of all the bad weather, and fresh snowfall in the mountains, we were amazed to see that the Col d'Aubisque and the Tourmalet were both closed- two of the reasons why we came here!  The friendly pizza chef recommended an alternative route, although he added it was quite tough, up to Col des Spandelles and Col de Soulor.  We checked the map and it did look an interesting circuit.  So the following day, nice downhill start 10miles to Argeles-Gazost, up to Gez and through the vallee des Salles, climbing to Col des Spandelles, 1350m.  A tricky steep descent to Ferrieres and then the same amount of climbing again to Col de Soulor.  Well worth it with views across the mountains to the road up the Aubisque. Ian saw a golden eagle soaring alongside him overlooking the ravine.  I could see that we had done all the hard work, with only a few hundred feet to go to the summit of Aubisque, and a gentle gradient to finish on, but the barrier was across and the summit was "ferme"!  So that was that!
Time for a coke and a chat at the top of Soulor, with a couple from Halifax, who'd recently visited Trough of Bowland, as they had a friend in Clitheroe!  Then the long, long descent, but easy gradient, over 12 miles back to Argeles-Gazost, and then the 10mile climb back up the adjacent valley to Luz, assisted by a Nutella crepe and coke from a roadside van.  Fantastic, a double strength sugar injection!  I love crepes!
  Set off at 10am and back at 5pm.  A long day out!  62 miles and 7800ft climbing.  At least the rain stayed off, with cloud and some sunshine.
Another six more cols before the legs are meant to respond!  I wonder if that goes for middle-aged women as well!  By the middle of next week, we should be like wot sit off a shovel!

Galicia

Galicia

With poor weather forecast for the next few days and chances of cycling diminished, we decided to use the time to explore as far west as we could, into Galicia and specifically Santiago de Compostela.  There are various pilgrimages but the main one is from Leon in Castilla, further south.  An ancient holy town visited by modern day pilgrims and long distance walkers.
First stop, A Coruna, the capital of Galicia.  Road signs with O, instead of El and A instead of La, and lots of xs, gallego language is more akin to Portuguese, with Praia instead of playa (beach), and igrexa, instead of iglesia (church).  Most road signs which describe the town in Castillian have been corrected by spray paint or damaged to rub out the el or la and replace with gallego term.
The motorway over from Asturias, which hugs the coast for most of the way, the Autovia de Cantabrica, is an amazing piece of infrastructure, probably EU funded.  Hardly a mile goes by for 300 miles, which is not a viaduct or tunnel.  The landscape is stunning, with steep wooded hillsides off inland, and rivers, ravines and estuaries nearer the coast.  As the rain and mist came down, it still looked atmospheric and beautiful.
Arrived at A Coruna in the rain, and a campsite a couple of miles outside the city, set in landscaped gardens.  Expensive and still no hot water to wash up in.  A very nice restaurant on site, frequented by the locals, so maybe not encouraged to make your own.  A short taxi ride into town, took us to the" parte vieja".  Didn't really live up to its name, as not much old Coruna to see.  Proper industrial port and industrial architecture.  It's impossible to get bad food in Spain.  Even little back street cafe/bars like the one we called at did fantastic chipirones, the bar being named El Chipiron, which were big enough to be small sepia, or cuttlefish, and we had pulpo a la gallega as well- octopus thinly sliced and cooked smothered in a pint of olive oil and lashings of paprika- delicious!
The weather deteriorated and we decided that we might as well walk around nearby Santiago de Compostela, as hang around in A Coruna, so off we went.

Photos

Lago Enol Covadonga

Santuario de Covadonga

Llanes

Ascent to El Manzuco

Farming in valley Cortines
 

Llanes

Visit to Llanes, on the coast

We decided to visit the coast of Asturias, and read that Llanes was a pleasant place to visit.  A 38 mile round trip but a bit more demanding than expected. Two good climbs from the campsite at Avin to Llanes took us over the Col at El Mazuco.  A beautiful ride through meadows and hamlets, Cortines and Mere, with sections of road sweeping around ravines with views up imposing hillsides.  Occasionally kicking up to an average gradient of 9% over a couple of miles, you felt like you'd done a testing ride.  Descending steeply to Llanes, with views of a bright blue sea and green hillsides right up to the coast.  Hardly any traffic and even fewer cyclists.  A couple of local guys obviously on a well-used training route, shouting" Vamo, Vamos "for encouragement.  Everybody is so friendly and talkative around here and assumes you are Spanish, plunging at speed into some commentary about how hard the climb is, and it's much easier in a car!
  Llanes was a lovely place to stop, with a little harbour and glimpses of green-edged bays further along to Andrin and Cue.  Had a pintxo and cider.  Pintxo and cafe mediana was 2 euros!  We've been surprised at how cheap it is here, with 3 course menu del Dias and a bottle of wine for 10 euros.  I think they have to compete.  Lots of bars and restaurants open with very little custom at this time of year, put off by poorer weather than the costas.
  Pintxos are a larger version of tapas, fried chicken, lomo/pork loin, or ham, in a chunk of baguette.  The sidra was poured from a height, to aerate it.  Otherwise it is naturally flat, but delicious.  At 6% a little strong, but a coffee and dulces, in this case a chocolate filled pastry, helped to fortify for the two big climbs on the return.  Returning the same way was just a beautiful as before, with views down the valley, and views up to the Picos on the second climb.  An unexpectedly pleasant journey, and a bit hillier than expected, 4500' of ascent.  There's no preparation you can do at home for these climbs.  We just don't have anything with sustained climbing like this.  Nearest is climbing in Mallorca!  But it is surprising how quickly you start to feel on top of the climbing, the more you do it!  All good training!!!

Asturias June 2013

Campervan Trip, June 2013

Overnight ferry from Plymouth to Santander.  Expensive but a joy, with good food and great night's sleep and arriving in Spain by lunchtime.  A few hours drive took us to our first campsite at Avin on the road to Cangas de Onis, in the Picos de Europa National Park, in Asturias.  The northern coast is known as the "Green Spain", and is usually wet.  The limestone mountains of the Picos, covered with snow rise above green hills and valleys, covered with the sound of tinkling cow bells.  This area is famous for its Cabrales cheese, made from cow's, goat's and ewe's milk, and stored in cold, dark caves, and fabada, a stew made from large white beans in a sauce, with black pudding, belly pork and sausage.  Also famous for sidra, cider, aerated by pouring from a height. Just a gentle orientation cycle of 20 odd miles to get a fix on the state of the roads and consideration of Spanish local traffic.  No need to worry about either.  Ian cycled to the head of the valley at Poncebos, to the start of the walks up the mountain peak of the Naranjo de Bulnes.  There is a funicular to take you part of the way up.  The main walking route across the Picos takes you into the Cares valley. No roads, just walking route.  The Picos are pretty inaccessible, unlike the Alps, unless you are on foot.  The area seems quite affluent, with houses and granjas recently restored.  Customary to paint walls a vivid blue, red or green.  Very attractive.
The following morning, we set off to Los Lagos de Covadonga, a climb featured regularly in the Vuelta de Espana.  At 1135m over 14.2km, the average gradient is described in "Europe's Greatest Cycle Climbs" as 6.8%, with a max of 15%, but there are 2km of 11% and above, which made this feel tough.  Relieved it wasn't just me, Ian said that was tougher than he expected, with not many places to grab a drink for fear of not being able to get going again on the ascent!
The views up to the Picos are wonderful.  Looking across the Lago de Enol and then further on to the Lago de Ercina up to the snow covered mountains makes the ascent worthwhile.  During the descent, time to pause, stretch a sore back and braking hands and gaze at the magnificent Santuario de Covadonga, a basilica perched high on a hill above the road.
Note to self:  a menu del Dia of fabada and fried hake/merluza, is not a good idea half way through a testing cycle.  Fabada, in typical bean fashion gives you shocking wind and makes you feel uncomfortably full for the rest of the day!  Stick to light, sweet snack!

Off Camping

Back to the family and off camping

On the way back to Lizzy and Lily, we called in at Bodega Bay, to the north.  It was misty and quite chilly, so after looking at the fishing boats in the marina at Spud Bay, we called at the Spud Bay Crab Co. for "the best clam chowder" in town.  Hot and fully of fishy and potato goodness, it was just what you needed to warm the cockles.
Next, we called at Sugarloaf Ridge National Park in the Sonoma valley and walked the 3mile vista trail, with beautiful views over the Sonoma countryside.  Saw several large wild turkeys, very large birds.  Called in at VJB vineyard, where we've been before, for lunch and glass of chardonnay in the sunshine in their courtyard.
Back at Andrew and Lizzy's for Thursday night, and they made us home-made deep dish and thin, crispy pizza on their gas oven/BBQ. Really yummy!
On Friday morning, I went with Lizzy and Lily to Pioneer Park, whilst Ian went cycling up Mt Burdell.  It was great to see all the other young mums and children in the park.  Lizzy says it's a great meeting place.  The mums can unwind and chat, and the children get the chance to mix together.  We came here last November with Lily, and it was great to see the difference in what she can do in the park now, climbing, sliding, swinging, watching what the other kids are getting up to.  Later, while Lily had a nap, Ian and I called for a coffee and blackberry "scruffins" at Dr Insomnia's coffee house, our regular!  Andrew and Lizzy went out on their own, for once, to an Italian restaurant in Novato and we looked after Lily.  All went well, and she was happy to be left with us, so we had a Shaun the Sheep and Pingu marathon session!  One of her favourite things is to make Pingu sounds, that and playing "Bubbles" game on the IPad.  In fact, every time she sees grandad she asks for bubbles, so I've nicknamed him "grandad bubbles"!

Before we went off camping on the Saturday, we caught up with Laura and Emma, and met her sister Zoe, and then called Kate to find out how her trip to Madrid, to visit Michael had gone.  Then we set about packing overnight camping gear into manageable rucksacks and bags, before setting off on the 3/4 hour drive to Bear Valley National Park, near Point Reyes Peninsular.  We obtained our parking and tent permits from the park office, parked up near the start of the Sky Trail and then set off on our 1 1/2 mile walk.  Now that doesn't sound like much but with heavy packs, it was far enough, as we climbed steadily to reach the Sky Camp near the summit of the hill.  A great place to camp, feeling really remote.  Lizzy booked the pitch some time ago, as it's booked up at the weekends for some time now.  About a dozen pitches, some in the clearings, some deep in the woods, all private and well spread out in your own little bays, so that you're not overlooked by anyone.  Our pitch overlooked Limantour bay and the ocean.  It was very hot as we pitched the tents, so we went on another walk into the cool of the trees.  Lily enjoyed looking for "baby trees", and as we sat for a rest, we saw a coyote hunting small prey in the long grass.  Also saw a snake about 4' long, with yellow stripes along its body.   Lily enjoyed playing in the dust and the dirt, back at the tents, occasionally taking her shoes off and then transferring dusty footprints into mum and dad's tent and bedding!  She was having a great time. As Lizzy started to make hot dogs for tea, we drank red wine and watched the dense, cooling sea mist roll in off the ocean and climb up the hill- a regular feature of this coastal area.  By 5 pm, all the pitches were full and the mist had swallowed up the view and the heat, which was quite welcome!  As we went on an evening stroll, we walked into the mist, with the sunshine only a short distance above us. A bobcat walked across our path, and deer stared at us in the mist.  Andrew said he expected it to clear later in the night, and it did, so that a starry night sky could be enjoyed.  Surprising how cold it gets at night, considering it was about 28' c during the day.  As we settled down for the night, after Lily finally settled off to sleep, we could hear the howl of a coyote fairly close by.  All was silent, apart from the occasional wave breaking on the shore about 3 miles away but so clear.

Slept as well as you do when you sleep on a thin mattress, on stony floor, but better than Andrew, who sacrificed his sleeping bag to Lily.  He was up at dawn, just as a group of coyotes had finished howling loudly.  Ian thought that it was some fellow campers acting daft!  Andrew was taking photos of a beautiful sunrise and sea mist, which he's edited and put on Facebook.  Some great pics.  Muffins and tea for breakfast, and then walked back down the trail on a beautiful morning, back to the car, the apartment and a shower!  All pink-cheeked and grimy!
Ian and I went for a cycle, whilst we waited for our turns in the shower.  It's a lovely place to cycle from, and very popular.  Andrew spent time editing and downloading photos, video and music for us to bring back with us.  Thanks Andrew.  Rib eye steaks on the BBQ for tea and relaxed together on our last evening.  We're going to miss them all, but it's been a great visit, and the camping trip was a highlight.  In fact, we've left our mattresses and sleeping bags there, in the hope that we'll do it again on another visit.