Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 13

Grosmont Steam Railway

Day 13- Sept 13 OUR LAST DAY


Glaisdale to Robin Hood’s Bay 19mls. 1640’ascent

Weather- cloudy am. Becoming wet and windy!



What a shame it’s likely to be wet today- our first, and last, wet day on the walk. I can’t believe how lucky we have been, and how different the walk could have been.

AW loved the variety of the last leg of the walk, and it certainly lived up to its description.

Our first stop- a brief look at Beggars Bridge, an old, picturesque 17th century bridge. Then a lovely walk through Arncliffe Woods, along the riverbank, and on to Grosmont and Grosmont Station. We were lucky enough to arrive just as a lovely old steam train was waiting at the platform. To the sound of its horn and the deep chugging sound as it pulled away, we began the very steep climb up, 1 in 3. Phew! On to open moor again- Sleights Moor, and a deterioration in the weather had us struggling in the wind to don overtrousers. Across the A169 Pickering road and over the moor, with views of Whitby Abbey in the mist, far off in the distance, and south to the “golf balls” of Fylingdales Early Warning System. Dropping down into the beautiful little village of Little Beck,we were on a woodland trail, later joining the falling Foss forest trail at The Hermitage, carved out of the rock in 1790, you can sit inside to shelter from the weather. On towards the Falling Foss waterfall- spectacular and the Falling Foss Tearooms- even more spectacular!!! My lunch consisted of two cakes and a great pot of tea, sheltering in the lovely tea-room gardens, under large garden umbrellas. Up over Sneaton moor, AW cruelly sends you North to the village of Hawsker, about 3miles out of your way. You appreciate why, later, when he has you doing a “lap of honour” around Ness Point, before arriving in RHB. But at the time, after such a long walk, it’s hard to think positively about such a detour! The only blot on an otherwise astonishingly beautifully scenic day, is the trail through Northcliffe caravan park, which seems to go on forever. But it doesn’t and before long you’re on the coastal path, up to your knees in mud, but exhilarated to be so close to the finish. With RHB in sight, a sense of achievement starts to creep in!

Throwing pebble into North Sea

Tired and filthy, we arrived at Wainwrights Bar in the quaint little village of Robin Hood’s bay. A romantic place in itself, but even more so for Ian and I, because we spent a weekend here when we both students, over 30 years ago! Ian had met us on the coast path, in fact he’d planned to meet us coming through Hawsker, but missed us, whilst taking shelter in the pub!!!

We threw our pebbles from the West coast into the sea on the East coast, and had photos taken etc. There’s a plaque on the outside wall of the pub, saying “The End- Coast to Coast 190miles” and it’s hard to believe we’ve done it, but we have.

A couple of pints of beer in the pub. Fish and Chips from the chippy. A long drive back almost to the start to drop Col off in Lancashire!!

Robins Hood Bay - Wainwrights Bar

Four weeks ago now. Knees finally settling down, but had been swollen for several days afterwards. Two black toe-nails. Need to wean myself off beer and pie, chips and peas!



I’d definitely do it again- Would do the high level route in the Lakes, if the weather was conducive- wouldn’t recommend it if it weren’t. But planning on an alternative to the trudge around Ennerdale Water, opting for the route of the Ennerdale

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 12



North Yorks Moors

 Day 12 Sept 12 Clay Bank Top – Glaisdale 19mls 984’ascent


Weather again bright and sunny, but a cold breeze



As the figures suggest, a long but reasonably flat walk ahead today. Sitting in Judy and Stuart’s comfortable kitchen, enjoying a delicious cooked breakfast, talking about dogs and horses, and anything else, just to relax in their cosy house, it was very difficult to get going today!!!

But ahead a day of reliving the moment of 30odd years ago, when I ran the next section, as part of the Clayton-le-Moors Ladies bid for coast to coast run inside 24hours, which we achieved easily, thanks to Vanessa Brindle, Wendy Dodds, Karen Taylor and the like- all superb fell-runners. I ran my section with Ian in , and would expect to take significantly longer today.

After a brief climb up from Chop Gate, where Stuart deposited us, the only climb of the day almost, we pushed on over Urra Moor. Then we steamed along the disused Rosedale Ironstone railway line, with fast walking across the North Yorkshire moors. From High Blakey moor, we could see the Lion Inn at Blakey, the only building for miles.

We stopped there for some soup, and as I went inside, it was really impressive. Although only lunch-time, there were candles on all the tables, with the rambling dining area, spread out over three rooms. Very welcoming staff, and after I’d glimpsed the massive table full of various desserts, I was wishing that, like the Bamford Builders, we were staying here for the night.

But no such luck, we were bound for Glaisdale. After a break, in which we were caught up by the Calver mother and daughter, Danish and Martin, we were off on the flat again. This happened a lot- your never on your own for long, and are constantly joined by the same groups of people at lunch and break stops.

A brief stop at “Fat Betty” stone, to make an offering of chocolate, and pick up someone else’s trail bar, round Great Fryupdale and over Glaisdale Moor and then down into Glaisdale. Well, actually, we were staying at a farm for B&B- Hart Hall dairy farm, run by a lovely couple, Elaine and Dave. They politely requested that you waited until after 7am to have a shower, as it affected the electricity supply to the milking parlour. A very busy couple, raising a dairy herd, milking twice a day, caring for calves born during the night, running a B&B, and raising a family! Colin gallantly accepted the Harry Potter-sized bedroom under the stairs, because Australian John had taken his room upstairs. He’d had a much shorter walk today and, having arrived early, had bagged one of the two rooms upstairs! He’d been a pain on the first morning, having bagged the shower for his personal en-suite, and kept us waiting to use the loo! Ah well!

Just a note about the pub in the village- don’t bother going- food was great but some younger locals need to get out more! What passed for entertainment seemed to be a woman with a freakishly long tongue, who stuck it out suggestively, at any given opportunity to shock and amuse, I suppose, whilst her mates farted and burped their way through the evening! Hmmm! A good argument for increasing the gene pool in some rural areas!!

The best part of the evening was spending it having a meal with Birgitte (Danish) and Martin, a lovely couple living in London, both in the acting profession.

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 11



Lord Stones Cafe

 Day11 Sept 11 Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top 11mls 2545’ascent


Weather wet start then became dry and bright

I was dreading today, as my knees were still very swollen. A lot of ascent, and more worryingly, descent today, but a much more interesting day in prospect. The Cleveland Hills.

Wainstones

We woke to the sound of Blackpool Donkeys having their breakfast, singing songs, and taking their tents down in the rain! Sooo glad I’m not doing that!

First a climb up to Beacon Hill, laden with its famous transmitters, with forest trails, giving way to moorland. The purple heather was looking wonderful, and we passed a team of grouse-beaters at work, raising a few grouse for the shoot. Then up and down, and up and down, until we came across the terrific little Lord Stones café, hidden in the trees, which is a bit further than half-way. Time for a nice bit of soup for lunch and a cracking cuppa, and then off again

Up and down to the end of Cold Moor, finishing with the impressive Wainstones- rocky outcrops. A lot of up and down today, but better than I was expecting. Knees sore but responding to regular anti-inflammatories. Knee support making a huge difference also.

We were staying at Stuart and Judy’s B&B tonight, and we rang him beofr we dropped of Hasty Bank and lost signal. For £35, we were provided with B&B, transport from and back to Chop Gate, and transport to and from the pub at night where I enjoyed a very filling Chicken Parmo, a local delicacy. Fantastic. Nicest, most comfortable place to stay, and difficult to wrench yourself away from, after a hearty breakfast in the morning!

This was where my leg of the relay started from, when I ran it 30odd years ago, with Clayton Harriers. The Blackpool Donkeys had another long day today, because they were going all the way through to the Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge (21mls), but then they would have two shorter days- to Grosmont (65mls) and then RHB(15mls).

Lots of different ways of doing this final section. Still bumping into the same groups of people on route. Mum and daughter from Calver were staying in the same B&B and sharing lifts with us last night.

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 10



Ingleby Cross and Blue Bell

 Day 10 Sept10 Richmond to Ingleby Cross 22.7mls 560’ascent


Weather wet, then cloudy and mild later.

The most uninteresting, featureless, miserable part of the walk, but you do chalk up a good chunk of mileage, through the Vale of Mowbray. Arable/horrible land!!

Danby Whiske pub half-way, and lunch available. 8mls of boring road walking to follow. Most exciting bit was legging it across the busy A19 dual carriageway!

Relieved to arrive at the Blue Bell Inn, Ingleby Cross, where I’d booked B&B. Good place. Great food and good pub atmosphere, where we met all the usual suspects, Bamford Builders and Blackpool Donkeys, and Calver mum and daughter. Great atmosphere, chatting together. For me, one of the most important elements of the walk is socialising afterwards over a great pint! No sign of Danish and Beano, who, it transpired, had got very lost!

Not much else to say for today!!!

Apart from the fact that I’ve never had haute-cuisine pie, chips and peas before, served in beautifully presented little portions!

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 9

Get Pints In....Richmond

Day 9 Sept 9 Reeth to Richmond 10mls 1100’ ascent


Weather Cold but sunny and windy

We walked along the river Swale towards Marrick Priory. Now an adventure centre, it was established in the 12th century, as a Benedictine Convent. Up through the wood over the 375 steps, known as the Nun’s Steps, and on to the village of Marske. Down to Clapgate Beck and the “Applegarth Riviera”, with magnificent views down to the river Swale all the way to Richmond, and its castle. A lovely easy day today. A day for ambling and enjoying. Not as dramatic as previous days, but pastoral and gentle.

Richmond is a bustling market- town, with all the facilities tired, sore bodies might require. So we opted for a new pair of socks, and a couple of pints! We were met by Ian at the pub. Hand-made, delicious cakes were on sale at the indoor market, so I bought a few for tonight’s pudding, as we wouldn’t be able to return to town this evening, the site being a least another 2mls away.

It wasn’t easy to find a site, but we opted for the nearest at Brompton-on-Swale. Ian and Colin headed straight back, but I opted for a little detour to Easby Abbey (ruins), and St Agatha’s Church. I’m glad I did, as the church, which dated back to the 10th century was full of marvellous medieval wall-paintings, dating back to 1205, depicting the story of Adam and Eve.. Then a lovely walk on through pastureland to the campsite.


Easby Abbey


This is not quite the route described by AW, which stays south of the river, whereas we’d had to go north slightly to find the site.

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 8

Campsite Keld

Day 8 Sept 8 Keld to Reeth 11mls and 1790’ascent, depending upon which route you take


Weather Misty, damp and autumnal

Both routes start the same. We began today by watching sheep being rounded up by quads and ten sheepdogs, working in pairs, and driven over the narrowest of bridges. Just below Crackpot Hall, the route divides and you decide whether you want to follow the river Swale, or take the higher level route through the abandoned lead mines. We opted for the higher route with stunning views over the river valley. In the end, we made a mistake, and found a third route, through farms and villages. As it was, I’m not sure it was such a bad mistake, as the route through the mines sounded like a bit of an ordeal, being rough underfoot, and AW does recommend you find your own way! But the point is, that in many places the route is unmarked and indistinct.

Our route took us a lovely pastoral way, through Gunnerside and Heerlaugh, very quiet, isolated hamlets, all the time following the river Swals but from a higher level.



Crackpot Hall



We met Ian at Orchard Park caravan and camping site, in Reeth, set in an orchard, but quite difficult to find. Reeth seemed like a lovely place, with a village green and a couple of pubs. Ian and Colin went for a pint at the Black Bull. Danish Pastry and Beano recommended this as a place to stay, with the best pub food so far.

I stayed at the van, with frozen peas plonked on my knees again!



Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 7



Nine Standards Rigg

 Sept 7 Day 7 Kirkby Stephen to Keld 13mls 1690’ascent


Weather bright and breezy

Woke to a much better morning than expecting. After calling at the Chemists for knee supports and anti-inflammatories for very swollen knees, we were raring to go.

Kirkby Stephen is a lovely little market town, well off the beaten track, and a bit like stepping back in time, in a nice way.

Prospect of a very boggy terrain ahead.

It was an exhilarating walk up to the Nine Standards Rigg, very unusual stone cairns, approx 12’ tall, standing in a row on the brow of the hill overlooking the Eden Valley. They are visible for miles around. The next section of the walk follows a number of different routes, depending upon the time of year. From August to November you take the blue route, which takes you over boggy terrain and down into the delightful Whitsundale Beck. Although our feet were soaked it wasn’t as bad as we were expecting, as we dropped down to Ravenseat, and Amanda’s tea-rooms, as seen on TV. Sitting outside at a picnic table, laden with cream tea, home-made strawberry jam and delicious home-made scones, in the afternoon sunshine, in this beautiful stretch of countryside that I’d never seen before….I thought I was in heaven. Birgitta and Martin, alias Danish Pastry and Beano, clearly thought the same, as they were grinning from ear to ear. Worth the effort.

Ravenseats Cream Tea

We continued on following the Swale down towards Keld, past a series of waterfalls. Passed a really nice campsite, Park House, where the Blackpool Donkeys were staying, on the left approaching Keld. Then passed Butts House B&B and then onto our campsite, Park Lodge. A bit basic, but superbly situated with views down the valley to Swaledale. Called in at the Keld Lodge Hotel for a pint. Nice place but expensive.

What a wonderful place Swaledale is! The Lakes are magnificent, but Swaledale is magical also! Keld- a tiny little hamlet in an unspoilt area, which I know I’ll visit again soon.