Marie's Blog Feb 2012

Montego Bay

2012-01-30T20:02:00.004Z

Last leg to Montego Bay, Jamaica

Gran started getting stroppy when told 5 bottles Red Stripe was enough at lunchtime!

At sea now to our last port of call. A massive 1200mls across the Gulf of Mexico, between the Yucatan Peninsular and Cuba and back into the Caribbean and Jamaica. Three and a half days later and we arrived at Montego Bay and our last few hours before flying off to Gatwick. Stories of a winter yet to arrive with a vengeance in UK, ready for our return and forecast for Feb.
Some great food on board, highlights being grilled lobster tails, monkfish and mahi mahi, fish every day. But more important than that, the wonderful and caring staff of the Balmoral, mainly from Thailand, the Philippines and Bali, were excellent.
We were able to stay on board right up to the last minute. Bags had been packed and taken away during the night, able to use their towels, swim and sunbathe all morning, use showers and clean up ready for lunch. Last meal on board, sitting calmly together in the cool of the Ballindalloch restaurant, being waited on and served great food-fish again. Farewells to friends and staff, and ready for off.

Montego Bay Jamaica

Looking forward to returning home, to seeing friends and family, sleeping in a double bed, a big bath, cooking again etc.

Galveston

2012-01-26T14:57:00.003Z

Galveston, Texas

25 January. Lily's First Birthday
Also Burns Night!

Nice picture of Ship's bell (nothing to do with Galveston)

Arrived in thick fog, and we're delayed getting into our berth, because the port had been closed to all shipping. Apparently common-place, when there are light winds.
Most important objective today was to find Starbucks and Skype the family. Ended up in Fisherman's Wharf Restaurant, with pints of Blue Moon with orange slices and Shrimp Poboys. Absolutely tipping it down and lightening, but managed to Skype Lily and we all sang Happy Brithday to her. Grandma was delighted to see her little smiling face, and watch her confidently walking towards us, whilst we all clapped excitedly. She can even get back up again quickly, if she falls down, and she's so quick at walking. Andrew said she even runs at times. He told us his visa is going to be extended for three years, and he's still hoping to come over this year, so grandma's really pleased about that.
Then we skyped Laura and chatted with her for a while. So lovely to see them. Could n't get hold of Kate, but she's sent a message to say that she's booked her flights to see Michael in April. As the storm continued outside, we ordered two more Blue Moons and waited for it to pass. The place was filling up with disgruntled cruise passengers, but we couldn't have been happier, now that we'd all seen Lily, and all the family.
There were trips to Houston and the Kennedy Space Centre, but we didn't fancy them. The old Strand in downtown Galveston was worth a visit, with it's historic buildings, but unless you liked shopping, there wasn't much to do there. So back to the ship, just in time for daily Pilates, and later the quiz with grandma!
Burns night tonight, so Scottish Gordon might be wearing his plaid trousers or his kilt, and haggis and nears will no doubt be on the menu!

New Orleans

2012-01-25T18:01:00.003Z

Up the Mississippi to New Orleans.

Local ragtime jazz band

From the Gulf of Mexico, you have to travel 100+mls up the Mississippi River to arrive at New Orleans. We docked alongside the Riverwalk at just after 8am, on a dull, misty day, the first poor day since leaving Tenerife all those days ago! We were here all day and evening up to 11pm. A local steamboat jazz band have been invited to come on board and play for us tonight, which we're looking forward. I suspect the people who have paid £140 to go on a trip to see a jazz performance won't be looking forward to it quite as much.
The entertainment on board has been quite mixed, with an unfortunate couple of singers being sent on the next plane out of Tenerife, because there was a mass walk out! We've got a great singer on board called Phil Brown, who has sung in theatres in London and in the Lion King. Unfortunately his repertoire is aimed at the over 70s, and when he does try to do a Gnarls Barkley song, or something from the last 30 years, the backing band are so downbeat it's a real struggle. That coupled with some people sitting stony-faced, or childishly pretending to go to sleep (a Dutch custom) , it's a tough audience to play for! That said, he got a standing ovation for that current song "Old Man River", appropriately sung as we were about to join the Mississippi.

French Quarter

All the way up the Mississippi, there are massive oil rigs, a reminder that this area is rich in oil, and had a recent disastrous spillage which decimated the shellfish industry, which is big in this area- crawfish, prawn gumbo, jambalaya and other creole dishes. I was supposed to go to a cookery class in the Riverwalk shopping precinct, which had to be cancelled. I was quite relieved when I saw the rather uninspiring setting for the class.
We had a tram journey, which seemed to take an interminable length of time, it being actually quicker to walk, along the river bank, in the hope of taking grandma on a steamboat. In classic American positivity, we were told that the steamboat was running but was in dry dock, so in actual fact it wasn't running, but we could go on a trip to the dungeons and museum, which we regretfully denied! So after a stroll back to the boat, now that it had stop raining, we had lunch on board.
Whilst Florence rested in the afternoon, we explored the French Quarter, on foot. The atmosphere in this part of the city is very European and bohemian, not a bit American. You can hear the distinct southern drawl, "yawl", of passers by. They are proud to be different to other parts of America, to have a laid-back approach, which goes well with the hot, humid conditions. It must be unbearable in Summer. New Orleans has had its fair share of disasters, with the BP oil spill, Hurricane Katrina and flooding. There is a French Market area, with bars and cafes. More shops than anyone might need, but beautifully ornate old buildings with wrought iron balconies, hanging baskets, faded and peeling painted shutters, all reminding you that this a very historic city by American standards, dating back to about the 1780s, and sharing a Spanish and then French history, the French selling Louisiana to the Americans, in order to fund Napoleon's wars in Europe, with the Louisiana Purchase.

Typical Paddle Steamer

In the French Quarter, we had our first experience of an impromptu jazz performance by a group of six young street musicians, playing rag-time jazz. It was great foot- stomping stuff to make you smile. New Orleans is famous for its rich musical heritage, with big names like Louis Armstrong coming from here. Jazz is big here, and Mardi Gras is world famous. Mardi Gras, or Shrove Tuesday, was about eating up all the rich food before you went into Lent. The quarter was festooned in green, purple and gold. Masks are sold everywhere, and coloured beads dangle from balconies. Very colourful.
We decided to return to the ship for a rest and go back into town for the evening, because the ship didn't leave until midnight. We wandered down Bourbon St, which is a bit like Soho, with big-busted women hanging out of strip clubs and posters advertising strip shows. A bit in your face for the US which is usually so proper!
We returned to the French Market area for the evening, and opted to be cycled in by a local, who worked particularly hard, especially after the traffic lights had changed. Opposite the Jax Brewery, there is the only micro-brewery in NO, the Crescent City Brewery. Architecturally interesting, an old warehouse, the large copper stills behind the bar, a jazz band in the corner, courtyard at the rear with a fire. It was a warm evening and we opted to be in the thick of it in the saloon. We ordered a sample of the beers- 150mls of five different types of beers- signature Red Stallion, Black Forest, Creole Alt, and a Weiss beer and a pilsner. We shared a wonderfully light crab cake, much nicer than the coated dried ones we get at home. Ian had a Prawn PoBoy, deep-fried, battered prawns in a large bun, and I had a very pink, and delicious tuna salad. We walked back calling in at the massive Harrah gambling hall, the ones place you can guarantee to find a restroom!
Managed to arrive in time for the guest jazz band, a local six piece band who had been invited onboard to perform for us. They were great. I hadn't realised how much I liked jazz. Not the experimental stuff, but the rag-time type with a foot-tapping beat. A really good show, they said they'd played in the Keswick Jazz Festival, and would be returning to that this year.
At 1159 we departed for Galveston, Texas, about 300mls SW in the Gulf of Mexico. Another whole day at sea, before we arrive 8am the following day.

Key West

2012-01-25T18:00:00.005Z

USA - Key West

Gran not looking so sure about this!

A day and a half later, arriving 6am, about 400mls from Grand Turk, we arrive in USA. We have to go through an individual face-to-face meeting with US customs before we're allowed ashore. We later discover that we were some of the lucky ones who pass through quite swiftly and we're ashore soon after 9am. Our fellow diners who are unlucky to be on deck 4 are called much later, and in the scrum to get ashore have to wait until about 12noon!

Huge Banyan Tree Key West

We've been to Key West a few times and really like it. You really immersed in the Florida Keys, bright blue sky, turquoise sea, lush, tropical gardens,colonial-style,clapperboard houses, some painted in pastel colours of turquoise, lime green, blue and pink. About 90 miles from Cuba, it's not surprising that there are strict immigration procedures to follow. Grandma came ashore with us and she and Ian enjoyed a short bike ride around the historic old town. Needless to say, they paid someone to do the pedalling! A brief stroll around Duvall St and then grandma returned for lunch on board. I found my favourite shop over here, called Fresh Produce, and bought a pair of white short trousers and a t-shirt. Beautiful cotton. We tracked down a place for lunch where we'd been before. With an hour to wait for a table, we went to the oldest bar in town, called the Green Parrot, established 1886, and enjoyed a couple of Blue Moons, and chatted to some very excited Americans from Daytona, drinking Jaegermeister and Red Bulls. Ian had just finished telling me how sensible they were for drinking just cokes, seeing as they were on push-bikes!

Blue Heaven restaurant

We wandered back towards the "restaurant" called Blue Heaven, past the Banyan Resort, a time share hotel built around a huge Banyan Tree, whose spread must have been at least 50ft or more, a huge shady tree. We were eventually shown to our table where we ordered shrimp sandwich and chicken tortilla with black bean rice, followed by Key Lime meringue pie. The reason we were willing to wait for so long was not just because the food is good, but because the surroundings are atmospheric. You sit at basic tables in a back-yard with a dirt floor, with chickens and rooster scratching around, (I'm sure they've grown in number since we were here about six years ago!).

Local weiss beer

Back to the boat and we went back ashore with grandma for a drink in a warehouse bar at the port, which was overpriced and disappointing. Won't be doing that again! Back on board, and the boat had to leave before the sunset celebrations start in Mallory Square. Quite happy to leave cos it's a bit of a circus! We waited and waited for a couple who hadn't arrived on board. Someone told us that they were later seen being man-handled onto the ship from a tender, as it was moving! Not many captains would have gone to so much trouble, I suspect!

Cool hat

As the sun went down, we joined in the singing and dancing at the stern of the ship. Once again a great atmosphere and good fun, leaving Key West behind us. Lots of passengers joined in to make it a fun end to the day, and the ones who couldn't join in, sat and watched, like grandma.

Grand Turk

2012-01-22T18:07:00.004Z

Grand Turk, Turks and Caicos Islands

You can swim right next to boat at Grand Turk

Arrived 6am to see the sun rising over these beautiful, low- lying islands. Everything you imagine about Caribbean islands is true of Grand Turk- white sand, palm trees, turquoise sea and sky, solitude - well, the last bit would be true, if you didn't arrive with 1300 passengers. Situated close to the Bahamas, a small group of islands in very shallow waters. Kate would love it here!
We'd opted for a snorkelling trip to the solitude of Gibbs Cay, which meant we were there with only 30 others, as visits and numbers are restricted. The experience was wonderful, relatively quiet and undisturbed, for a change, but the snorkelling itself was a bit disappointing. White sand and turquoise sea might look idyllic, but it's like a desert for marine life. I managed to sea some large blue tangs, wrasse and others I can't remember the names of, swimming in deeper water near a small reef. Others saw small turtles. We followed stingrays "flying" out towards the reef, having been fed and "played with" in the shallower waters earlier. This was the only grumble. Having signed for the one of two snorkelling trips which was not supposed to include the rays, we found to our surprise that we had a photographer on board, who would take pictures of us kissing rays and have them swimming near you feet. A group of us refused to cooperate with this, and said we were going off snorkelling. A bit annoyed about this, and the fact that we had with us someone who was not a good swimmer, and needed to be towed around by the guide, limiting what some of us could experience. So several of us just swam off and did our own thing! At £40 each, we weren't going to have this experience lessened by health and safety, and someone else's agenda. That's the main problem with some of these trips, and that's why we haven't booked any more.

Conch shell

I can't abide these creature experiences, up close and personal with something that's only there to be fed. It's like a circus, and we shouldn't encourage these stupid experiences. There are supposed to be wild creatures. Next thing I saw was some twit touching coral on the reef, but he was only doing what had previously been encouraged and photographed. Why can't people be happy with less, watching them swimming away later was far more moving. They go in for these sorts of carnivals a lot in parts of Asia, but I expected them to be more enlightened here. I don't know why!
One of the best bits of the trip was watching our guide snorkel and dive down to pick up two conch shells, and then show us how to extricate the conch meat, by hammering a hole into a specific point, and detaching the muscle, and then pulling the slug-like conch out. Only a small white part is edible, which he sliced and we ate like sushi, raw. We've only ever had conch cooked in batter as fritters, but this was very different and tasted almost like a slightly sweet vegetable, not at all fishy, and really nice.

Not many fish...something must have frightened them off!

One of the shortest stays at a port, leaving at 2pm, but other than swimming, there is not much else to do, and that's why we liked it so much.

Arrival in St Maartens and Tortola

2012-01-21T16:11:00.004Z

Arrival in St Maartens, the Friendly Island, Carribean.

Tied up in St Maarten

4000 nautical miles and 11days at sea and we arrived in the port of Phillipsburg at 6am. No more constant trade winds blowing us West, with a following brisk sea, Force 5,
17-20 knots all day and all night, never reducing or changing. Actually we were in the famous Doldrums for one day, when the sea and wind were very calm, but then back into the trades.
Days have been spent in the gym, doing Pilates, and occasionally sunbathing, although the sun has been getting much more intense. Mum has been going to the talks, listening to the occasional classical matinee, and relaxing at most of the evening shows.
Last night Capt Olav cut the deck lights and treated us to a wonderful clear night sky, where he pointed to numerous constellations. He seems to be a particular friendly chap, softly spoken, who really enjoys spending time with his guests.

There's a body in the pool!

The morning visit ashore was brief, but Mum managed a long walk up into town, dodging hoards of souvenir t-shirt vendors, and shiny jewellery shops. Not much to see. Most guests seemed to be going on trips, but not us today. Tomorrow we're off on a coach trip around Tortola, which we can do with mum. Not quite the same as the last time we were in the BVIs, when we chartered a boat and sailed around Tortola and the Cays, but it 'll be fine! The sun is shining , the sky is blue and it's January!
We listened and danced to a local steel band in the evening on the aft pool deck. It was a great atmosphere and everyone danced as we left St Maarten at 11pm for Tortola.
Had a great trip around Tortola in the morning. We were on a safari type bus which wound its way up and down the hills into different bays. It is surprisingly hilly with highest point at 1750 ft which given island is only about 5 miles wide makes for some hair-raising ascents and descents. Said we would come back again and charter sometime.

Holding tummy in and trying to look relaxed!

Looking towards Virgin Gorda in BVI's

Finished the day with a BBQ on aft pool deck in the evening. It was very windy and rained later but again great atmosphere. Left late again for 2 day sail to Turks and Caicos.

Webster Family Cruise

2012-01-12T18:57:00.003Z

Webster family Cruise 2012!

Just about to leave Southampton

Well, about time I put "pen to paper"! Left Southampton on Thursday 5th January 2012. A bit of a rush around after Xmas- tree came down promptly, along with the decorations! Farewell to children and partners, arrangements made to visit little family out in Socal, with discounted flights!(Ian booked me to visit on my own in March, so confused about what to be excited about! Future cruise or visit to Lily!
Grandma managed to pack and be ready on time. Taxi to port of Southampton to make it easier and then once settled in our respective cabins, we were ready to set sail. Grandma landed a really spacious cabin directly above all the restaurants, which would prove to make life a lot easier for her. Ours wasn't so good, but at least it had bath.

Our seventh day at sea now, and we're all salty sea dogs. Grandma's finding her way around the ship, The Balmoral, really well. We're finding a routine of visiting the gym every morning for two hours, burning off excess calories, meeting up with Florence for lunch, then doing different things in the afternoon. I go to Pilates class every afternoon, then sometimes we meet up for a quiz, or, now it's warm and sunny, we lounge around on deck.

Arriving at Tenerife

A brief stopover for a few hours in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, where we went to a local bar, called Nuevo Porron, near to the old church of La Conception, and saw some interesting local food called Almogrote, mature cheese covered on honey and spices and promised to return one day!
Rubbish and waste off-loaded and provisions loaded and then we were off on the seven-day journey across the Atlantic to the Dutch island of St Maarten in the Caribbean. The trade winds have been kind and gentle and the crossing smooth, but it's early days. So smooth that we can hold strenuous positions in Pilates without falling over. The first night was quite uncomfortable coming out of the Channel, but it's been good since then.
Florence has been to most of the talks, whilst we've been at the gym. And she's been to all the shows. We make sure she's well ensconced and then disappear off to bed or bar. We don't do shows, especially these shows- they're far too old for us. The average age is about 73! Much older than on our previous cruise and much more infirm!

Approaching Tenerife

But the people who join us for dinner on our table are excellent. A couple from Bavaria, Herbert is lean and active, goes to gym and Pilates every day and hates wearing anything but a fleece, and another couple, Cynthia and Gordon who are sailors and great travellers, who went back-packing a couple of years ago, in Thailand! Not forgetting our other guest, Gordon, who is Scottish, and lives near Javea in Spain, and is an avid bridge player. Great company and evening meals with them are very entertaining and enjoyable, but I think we've landed lucky!
Tonight for the first time, we sat up on deck in reasonably warm evening, and watched the moon rise up from the horizon in the East. It was magnificent. Cruising at 17knots, with the moon lighting up the stern, whilst everyone was busy eating if they were second-sitting, or watching the show, if they were first sitting, and weren't like us. Just a few of us out on deck. And most of them smokers!! But what a moonlit evening. Ian reliving his transatlantic passage five years ago in much more uncomfortable conditions and on a much smaller boat!!!

Last few days

2011-11-18T14:26:00.000Z

Topanga State Park

Our last trip into Topanga Canyon on the bikes for this year at least. Another lovely sunny day. The kids say you get bored of the weather being much the same, eventually! Lizzys made us a superb picnic of the previous night's meatloaf, grapes and nuts. We'd started to think about having to leave all the family behind very soon, and Ian wanted to see if we could smuggle Lily back home in the suitcase! Check out the photo!
A meal out with a group of their friends, including Lexie and John, and then our last night on Lily's bedroom! She's been sleeping with Mum and Dad, so I wouldn't blame them, if they were glad to see the back of us for a while!
The following morning we gave Lizzy a break and took little pickle for a spin around Balboa Park again. We're looking forward to taking her when she's a bit older, to the adventure playgrounds there. They're superb. Got some great video footage of Lily smiling and laughing at some of the moving objects on a mural.

Plenty of room!

She's not far off walking. She took two steps from mummy to the green dinosaur walker, which we bought her. She'll have changed so much when we visit next time, but at least we can keep up to date on Skype, and we're hoping that they'll be coming over to the UK in the first half of next year.

Burrito Babe

Frazier Park

2011-11-18T14:19:00.000Z

Parker Mesa Lookout Santa Monica Hills

Ian wanted to check out the budget hotels called Super8, and we coincided it with a walk in Topanga Canyon Park. We'd had a downpour during the night, but today was looking promising. After a good walk, we drove to the Super8, but mmm, not sure we'd go back there. Not in a good location, and the worst thing is the rooms all look out over what proved to be a busy hotel car park, with residents coming and going until 4am! So had a really rubbish nights sleep, but at least we'd checked it out.
The following day was Lizzy's birthday. It was bright and clear, the best day. Blue sky and bright sunshine. We collected the family, Andrew having taken the day off, and set off for Frazier Park, about 80miles north of Andrew and Lizzys. They'd camped up there with John and Lexie some time ago, before Lily was born, and had been excited by being so far out in the wilderness. Only an hour and a half away and like a different world. 8500ft up, pine forests and trails in the Los Padres wilderness park. There were a few small hamlets and ranches but very quiet. With the few cold and wet days we'd had, came the added bonus of area near the summit of Mt Pinos being thick with snow. Whilst Lily slept soundly in the car, her parents and grandparents played in the snow and had fun! We'll have to come back another time when she's a bit older, so she can join in too!

A right pair of muppets!

Mt Pinos Frazier Park

Hollywood in 10 mins

2011-11-18T14:13:00.000Z

Santa Barbara

Back to Andrew and Lizzys for a few days now, after a great few days further North. Reflecting on the journey back, we both agreed we'd go back to Santa Barbara again, because it's so close to the kids, and we'd really enjoyed our time there.
Lizzy had prepared a lovely cannelloni meal for us, and once Lily had gone to bed, we caught up on "Downton Abbey" and the next installment of "Homeland".

The following day, we caught the Metro bus and then underground to Hollywood. The kids had warned us that there wasn't much to see, but we wanted to see how quick it was to get into the city. And it was. A speedy efficient 45min trip for 5 dollars each. But not as speedy as our brief visit to Hollywood Boulevard, Walk of Fame, where we paused briefly to glance at some of the hundred or so stars on the pavement, with celebrities names. There were people having their photos taken pointing to their favourite "star", re-enacting poses with a pirate with a striking resemblance to Johnny Depp, and lots of souvenir shops! We'd expected this but didn't expect to see how down-market and scruffy the area was! We high-tailed outta there and got back to the flat in time to give the kids a break, and take Lily out for a stroll. Lizzy made us another great meal of my favourite "pulled pork", and we spent the night relaxing with the kids and playing with Lily. She's such a sweetheart, and she's not as wary of us now, even crying when we leave the room, so we're making the bond with her that I'd hoped for.

Onto Santa Barbara

2011-11-11T00:38:00.001Z

Balboa Park with the ducks

We spent the next four days with the family, taking Lily for a spin around Balboa Park to stare at the ducks, the passers by, the trees etc! She does a lot of staring and "weighing things up"! We love it when she follows you to the loo/bedroom/kitchen, crawling all the way, and then peeping around the doorway, to see what you're up to. She's not walking yet, but has taken a few cautious steps, and she stands momentarily, when she's got her hands full, and is quite firm, so it looks like it won't be long before she's off!
We went to a Trader Joes, a bit like Chatsworth farm shop full of grumpy Americans, possibly because it was raining and chilly. In fact it bucket ted it down that weekend! On the way back, Lizzy was just warning us that they can't drive in the rain over here, possibly because it doesn't happen very often, and they're rubbish at stopping distances, drive too fast, don't indicate etc! Just as she'd finished this warning, the car behind us rammed into the back of us, with such a force that it left her licence plate fixed into the bumper of our rental car!

Cioppino

We packed again and set off north, to Santa Barbara. We spent our first two nights away in the Holiday Inn Express in Downtown, just off State St, and within a short walk of the sea-front. We arrived in time to walk to the end of Stearns Wharf and have, what turned out to be, the best seafood in town. We were both bowled over by this "crab shack". Superb fresh shellfish cooked right in front of us, whilst we sat having a beer and watching the skilled chefs at work. It was a bit chilly, but sunny, so the heat of the cookers made us feel cosy and warm. We loved it so much, we went back the following day, having watched what others were ordering and asking questions about the menu. Ian tried abalone, local delicacy, which he said tasted sweet and crab-like, and he said that the sauce was amazing. I had something called "cioppino", which seemed to be a favourite- a large bread roll, hollowed out and filled with clams, mussels, scallops and shrimp, cooked in a marinara sauce, topped with what seemed like half a crab, which I adventurously broke and poked which the various instruments I was given, but in the end came to the conclusion that it wasn't really worth the effort! But the rest of it was fantastic!

Santa Barbara

The whole eating experience in Santa Barbara was superb, with a sample dish at the Palace Grill, which did Martinis flavoured with marinating bell peppers, and the best mini-muffins, flavoured with rosemary, others with black molasses etc. I bought a recipe book from them to try out at home. Their blackened catfish was fantastic, and we both said we'd go again. Having spent a lot that day we said we'd do much cheaper the day after, and went to The Brewhouse, for beers and quesadillas, and for Ian, lamb burger and fries. Again great inexpensive food, sitting in a bar, surrounded by locals watching a soccer match. Great atmosphere, and would go again.
The main street, State St, is full of attractive shops, chafes, and bars on either side. Nice for browsing, but it seemed expensive and classy. The best experience on offer was an early morning trip to their famous court-house, which at 85ft high is one of the tallest buildings in the area, giving you amazing views over the city, out to the Pacific and the Channel Islands, the nearest and largest being Santa Cruz, and views up to the Santa Barbara hills. Absolutely beautiful. Hard to believe you are only less than two hours away from the concrete blocks of Northridge. The courthouse is surrounded by beautiful, lush gardens, set out in Spanish-Moorish style, as is the influence on the construction of the building itself. After the great earthquake of 1925, it was built over a steel frame, with concrete beams inside, painted and decorated as if wooden. The walls are hollow. The ceilings are stunningly painted in Moorish style, with massive wrought-iron chandeliers. Tiles from Tunisia and Spain add to the colour. A very helpful receptionist encouraged us to explore the second floor, where there are magnificent murals all around the court-room, depicting the history of the city, from the native Chumash tribes, to the Spanish, to becoming a Californian city. It is still an active courthouse, with business on-going, so you have to be mindful of this when exploring, but you are encouraged to wander. Michael Jackson appeared here, when he was accused of being over-fond of children!


Unusual Postbox?Where's the flap?

We cycled along the coast bike path, around to the marina, and it was lovely to see a coastal route without the usual shops, just natural beauty. Ian went for a cycle on the mountain road into the hills, with fabulous villas perched on the hillside overlooking the sea. After a walk in Rattlesnake Canyon, following a stream, we drove along the mountain road in search of a curious mailbox- a cyclist with a post box in his pants!
Then we were off on the drive up to Solvang, along the Camino Real historic road, which hugs the coast and then veers towards the Santa Ynez mountains, and the wine-growing areas of Santa Ynez, Santa Maria and Santa Rita. Solvang is a kitschy, faux-Danish, theme-parky kind of town, but to be fair to it, it is a relaxing, pretty, tree-lined town, only two hours away from the hub-bub and noise of Los Angeles. A completely different place with a feel of Europe, where you can buy Danish pastries and Danish products. It was founded in 1911 by Danish settlers, complete with windmills! Great wines include Pinot Noir and Syrah varietals. We went for a great meal of Tomatillo soup and Steak. We stayed at a comfortable hotel, the Wine Valley Inn. The weather was cold but sunny, almost down to freezing, the first night. Ian went on a 50mile cycle ride into Ballard Canyon and Foxen Canyon wine growing areas, and I visited a recommended patchwork fabric shop in Buellton. An indifferent pizza meal, and then back to the hotel for a glass of wine with a couple from Los Angeles, who worked in a prison! Interesting talking to them about state health care and abuses of the system! In bed for 9pm, having been up early again!

Santa Maria Valley

Vineyard in Santa Ynez Valley

The following morning was fine but chilly at about 8deg! We cycled along the vineyard route on the Santa Rosa road, past farms and several vineyards, for about 18 miles in total. The scenery was bleached and dry, and the sky was grey, so we didn't see what is described in the guide as the most stunning route in the area, at its best. Better to come back on a sunny Spring day and repeat it. There's an attractive RV park nearby, and the patchwork shop's really close, so we'll be returning!
Just one thing- we're both finding cycling on borrowed mountain bikes really difficult. They're great for dirt roads and rough terrain, but heavy-duty burdens on roads! Can't wait to get back on our road bikes!

Reunion with family

2011-11-03T15:34:00.002Z

Feeding Time

After what seemed like a long and unfortunately delayed flight, we finally arrived back in LA. Immediately Ian was driving around like he lived here, and when we got to their larger two-bedroomed apartment, we were met by Lizzy and Andrew and a bemused little Lily. She didn't cry, as we feared, but spent a long time weighing us up, with a serious little expression! She continued to do this in the days to come, but gradually got used to us, laughing and smiling, especially when we imitated her blowing raspberries, or "singing".

Never too young to start!

The next few days we spent getting to know our granddaughter, and spending time with Lizzy, whilst Andrew was at work. We had a cycle in the Santa Monica Hills, and jogged around Balboa Park, went up to Babies R Us, and bought a Xmas present for Lily- a walk-behind dinosaur, that later converts to a trike. With flashing lights and songs when she pushes buttons, this proved to be a hit. Earlier Lizzy had bought a terrific wooden toy, with a myriad of push, pull, twist, bang, bits that Lily found fascinating, so she had plenty of things to explore with little fingers and big movements!

P***ed already!

She is adorable, but I've forgotten how tiring babies are, and so four days later we were ready to relax for a few days in Palm Springs, our favourite place in the desert. We love it there. The light, the sunshine, the stark landscape and the great food. First night, starving, we went to La Cazuela for brilliant Mexican food. Great Chinese food at Mings, and tried a new place for us- Tootsies. Have to say here that the pulled pork Texas Tacos were amazing, so much so we went for lunch the following day. Superb!

Isn't she sweet?

Cactus Trail Santa Rosa Mts

Not bad for a budget hotel.

We're staying in an inexpensive Holiday Inn Express in Cathedral City, which is a great place to stay, with great breakfasts and very friendly staff. We did a couple of four to five hour walks, from the tramway station to the summit of Mt Jacinto, and an even more interesting walk into the wilderness of the Santa Rosa mountains. The latter was fascinating for flora, cacti, prickly pear, beavers tail, chollas, ocotillo, to name but a fraction, and fabulous yuccas with towering flower spikes. Up and down through gullies and washes, to spots with amazing names like Horsethief Creek, where there are the remains of a manzanilla wood chaparral, where the cowboys used to corral the horses, and then on to Cactus Spring. A very tiring but interesting walk, which we've made a note to do in the Spring when the cacti will be in flower. Walking up the wash, you half expect to come across a cowboy on horseback, or a Cahuilla Indian, who were the original people of this area. It might look like a desolate desert but it's teeming with plant life, and near the creeks, with still had running water in them at the end of Summer, you can see brightly coloured blue winged birds.

Spitting image of who?

We're off to Wangs in the Desert tonight, which does beautiful Chinese food in beautiful surroundings, and then back to the family tomorrow. We stay with them for three nights and then off to Santa Barbara for four nights. Looking forward to squeezing Lily again.

Last day in Switzerland

2011-09-16T16:40:00.002+01:00

Schwarzhorn

Final day in Switzerland. Had a great meal out last night of weidstubli rosti, and well fed for walk today to Schwarzhorn. Avoided another night of expensive camp site fees by parking for a fraction in Grindelwald. Then took the gondola up to First, the best cable car journey in the area. You don't have to share with other people, and it's lovely and quiet for the whole of the 30min journey. Fantastic. The steep climb up to Schwarzhorn, and scramble near the top was a bit difficult, but rewarded by the stunning views all the way down, of the sharp outline of the Eiger, the Wetterhorn, Geschpaltenhorn and a whole other chain of snowy mountains and glaciers. A very hot day, about 24deg.
It seems the weather is going to change dramatically, dropping from an average of 20deg to an unbelievable 9deg and rain on Sunday. Unbelievable. I'd kept saying to Ian that the weather was much warmer than I remembered. Anyway we're off north later today.

Back to the van and off to Kaysersberg, in the Alsace region. A slow journey down the road was dictated by herds of cows being processed through the streets, with their horns and heads beautifully decorated with flowers and ribbons! Only in Switzerland!

Pretty cows in Wilderswil

We overnighted on an extremely busy Aire at Kaysersberg, complete with a dozen vans on a "stork rally" , setting up camp in numbers! An extremely gentilhomme moved his van so that we could squeeze in behind him, and a lovely young German family came over to say we could squeeze in in front of him! I don't think that would have happened if we'd have been a bigger van!
After a busy night and morning of comings and goings, during which it seemed we left our second doormat behind, I had a lovely stroll around this breath-takingly beautiful medieval town, with its painted, timber-framed houses decorated with red geraniums, with its storks perched high on the church steeple. I love this place.
A long journey north to a little village on the famous Somme, and we camped for the night at Seraucourt Le Grand, near to a cemetery for the war dead.

Sore bum / sore feet

2011-09-14T09:30:00.001+01:00

Sore bum/sore feet - tough choice!

Jungfrau from Winteregg

Decided to give our feet a rest and get back on the bikes. Ian opted for a tough route, which we'd done before, up Grosse Scheidegg, and then on to Meiringen, before the tour of Lake Brienz. I opted for missing out the gruelling first part, and cycled downhill all the wY to Wilderswil, across the railroad, and then anti-clockwise around the lake, which we've done before. It's a brilliant fast road all the way back to Interlaken, with stunning views of the cool, green lake and mountains. A final cycle back up to Lauterbrunnen, and 40miles exactly. Really hot today, about 23deg, but heavy downpour this evening, and thunderstorms.
The following day was bright and misty, as we set off along the valley floor up to Stechelberg. Mist swirling around the huge mountain tops gave way to blue sky and warm sunshine. We climbed up to Gimmelwald, through forests and crossing waterfalls, and then on to Murren, and the lovely balcony path, which skirts around to Grutschalp, with the best views of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. We caught the cable car back down to Lauterbrunnen. Great day!

Only way to walk!

Jungfrau Marathon

2011-09-14T09:28:00.003+01:00

Jungfrau Marathon

Finish at Kleine Scheidegg

Arrived here the evening before the 19th Jungfrau Marathon, so it was a good job we'd booked as the site at Lauterbrunnen was filling up. A beautiful, sunny day, and a shame that we'd spent most of it travelling. Both of us still missing Provence, and talking about the things still left to do at Bourg d'Oisans, another trip up Alpe dHuez, the balcony route around to the Col de Sarenne, cycle to Oulles, which was the last village to get electricity in the 60s.
With customary Swiss efficiency we were in situ within minutes of arrival and planning tomorrow's walk. Our plans have been slightly affected by the poor exchange rate and, consequently high cost of, well just about everything. Good job we still had quite a few frozen meals I'd made earlier at home!

The following day we set off early and caught the 9am train to Wengen. From there, we walked up to Kleine Scheidegg, taking about 2hours, and after a hearty rosti lunch, we were up towards Eigergletscher, in time to see the first marathon finisher, running to the finish in just over 3 hours. 26miles from Interlaken, road running gradually uphill to Lauterbrunnen, then on steeply upwards to Wengen and following the track we'd just taken on to Kleine Scheidegg. An amazing feat in 3hours. As we walked down the same route as the runners, we passed them in varying states of distress, clumped around a pacemaker with a 5 hour sign, and then later another carrying a 6hour sign! All ages and nationalities. So we smiled sympathetically and uttered words of encouragement, and were so glad not to be accompanying them! Train back to Lauterbrunnen and that was enough for the first day. Not used to walking now and have got sensitive, soft feet! Never mind, will toughen them up by the end of the week. Planning a cycle ride around Lake Brienz tomorrow. Good practice for the New Forest Sportive at the end of this month.

Deja Vu / Alpe dHuez

2011-09-07T15:07:00.001+01:00

Deja Vu/ Alpe d'Huez

Arty photo for Andrew

Chilly start up to Alpe d'Huez, and we'd both forgotten how hard the first few kilometres are, when you wonder what on earth you're doing this for. Then, as it starts to get a little easier on the hairpins and going through the little villages, with views over the mountains, now bereft of snow, you realise why you keep doing this!
Ian reached the top in an amazing 1hr 04mins, getting closer to that magic under the hour, just keeping ahead of a Dutch cohort, and I was very pleased with 1hr 38mins, 15mins faster than last time. So chuffed that now my aspirations have changed from aiming to reach the top without stopping, to improving on my last time.
A bit cloudy today but still warm. With some energy in reserve, we decided to return via the mountain top village of Villard-Reculas, along a narrow road which hugs the mountain side. Then a long descent into the outskirts of Allemont, and the fast cycle back, averaging 17mph, all the way to Bourg d'Oisans. 27 miles in total and 3600ft of ascent.
Kate should be coming to the end of her first year exams now, and she'll no doubt when it's all over, and she can get her life back! We hope they've gone well.

Gorges de Nesque and Mt Ventoux again!

2011-09-07T15:05:00.001+01:00

Climbing the Gorge de Nesque

Forecast for further north, Grenoble and Switzerland, was rain and unsettled for the next few days. Here heavy downpours today and then sunny thereafter. Glad we decided to come this far south. After lolling about all day, as the rain poured down, the evening was dry and allowed us to Skype the family in LA, just recently increased by two, with Laura and Emma just having arrived. Laura had changed her first nappy when we caught up with them, but not managed to pin Lily down long enough to put another on, so caught glimpses of her chubby bottom as she wriggles in Laura's arms, and stood up for her dad. It's just great to feel so close to them, but I keep wanting to squeeze her through the computer screen! Among other presents, like a Burnley kit, Laura had bought her a special, little Miffy (Laura's favourite when she was little and big), but Lily does n't know what to make of it yet. She crawls right up to the screen and presses her nose on it!

The following day was as promised-lovely and sunny, but cool. We cycled off to the Gorge de la Nesque. The Nesque being the river, and the gorge cuts through for about 10 miles or so. This has to be one of the best cycles we've ever done. The high level road enters the gorge and contours around climbing at a gentle gradient, with great road surface, extremely quiet at this time of year, with stunning views deep down into the gorge, and the road ahead weaving around every pine-clad, hilly bend. Absolutely breath-taking! On leaving the gorge, we aimed for the hill-top village of Sault, famous for its hundreds of acres of lavender fields. Unfortunately at this time of year, they'd all been harvested, so no beautiful, purple fields, but the fragrance of lavender in the air. Ham sandwich and juice in Sault, where we could have had lavender cordial, lavender honey and lavender tea, and then we were on the return leg. Unless we returned the way we came, the most logical, if not sensible way back was over le Mont Ventoux, for the second time in three days. But Ian told me that the way up Sault was known for being the easiest of the three celebrated ascents, from Bedouin, Malaucene, and Sault. The climb up from Sault is quite easy, with gradients of 3% and 4%, and you emerge at the Chalet Reynard, with 4 miles left to the top of Ventoux, which you don't have to do, if you don't want. But I'd have been mad to miss it, on this sunny, clear day, with views for miles around. After a brief stop on the way down at the memorial to Tom Simpson, which I'd passed the last time, it was quick hot coffee at the Chalet, to warm up, before the speedy, and easy descent into Bedouin and home. Ian had been back a while, not having stopped for photos and savouring the moment! Just less than 60miles and 6000ft ascent, but more importantly one of the best day's cycling I think I've ever had!

I took the following morning as a rest day, in preparation for Alpert d'Huez, and Ian went off on his own to explore another interesting geological site, les Dentelles of Montmirail, limestone pinnacles not far from Malaucene, about 10miles from here. Then we're away and working our way back, via Bourg d'Oisan, one of our favourite stop-overs, and MOT areas! We'll definitely be back in this area again, as long as we avoid the fiercely hot months of July and August. It's still warm enough to cycle in short sleeves in September, which is a real bonus, after the cool August we've just had!

Le Mont Ventoux

2011-09-03T19:44:00.001+01:00

Its steep near the summit!

The weather had scuppered the plans again! Rain forecast for the foreseeable future in the Lauterbrunnen area of Switzerland, so we changed our minds about going there first, and decided to head further south than originally planned- a lot further south! The weather in Provence was unsettled for a few days and then sunny. So Provence it would be. There was lots to explore, and I'd bought a French magazine about the Vaucluse, Vercors and Ardeche areas, giving loads of walks and places to see, and we'd passed Mont Ventoux a number of times and promised ourselves we'd give it an airing. After all the cycling we'd done this summer, now seemed as good a time as any!
After an overnight at Beaune just off the motorway, north of Lyons, in the Burgundy region, we made Bedouin, at the foot of Mont Ventoux, late afternoon, and even had time to stretch our legs on a brief cycle along the first section of the route up the mountain. On the way, we met Roland Hurtecant, who said he too was climbing the mountain tomorrow. He was 72, and it would be the 156th ascent on the bike. He was one of the pioneers, who encouraged a return to the love of cycling up this mountain, after a lull of six years following the death of Tom Simpson, during the Tour de France, when people shied away from attempting the climb. In recognition of his enthusiastic efforts to revive interest, he explained that there is a monument to all those ordinary humans who cycle the mountain, and he and several others names are listed on the monument. It seems he is also known as Monsieur Mont Ventoux! An extremely nice Belgian man! We said our farewells and hoped to see him tomorrow.
Back to the van for a pasta fill, but a rubbish night's sleep, with French disco music blaring from the site snack bar until 1am, to be followed by the local mutts barking loudly and setting each other off!

Le Mont Ventoux

With thunderstorms and heavy rain forecast from about 2pm, an early start was required! By 8.30am I was on the bike and cycling up through vineyards and villages steadily climbing up through the pine forests which cover the bottom three quarters of the mountain. It's a lovely route with the smells of pines and warm tarmac! Our Dutch neighbours had warned us that there would be 500 or so of his nation joining us today from about 10am onwards, but with any luck we'd be up and down the other side, before the throng arrived. However there was also a walking event up the mountain, expecting to arrive at the summit at about the same time as the cyclists, and as I made my way up the first few miles, I passed big groups of walkers all dressed in the same cycling gear, which seemed a bit curious as they were walking. They were so friendly, cheering us all on! By now, Ian had passed me and was striking off with a good pace. I'd "picked up" a friendly French guy, who was going at the same speed as me, and I benefitted form all the support he was getting from his family members, who were following him up by car. After a pleasant start, the gradient builds up to 9% for a relentless 10k, and then there is a pit stop at Chalet Reynard, for those of a nervous disposition! My French companion was disappointed when I dropped off for a coke and a stretch at this point, cos he'd expected me to stay on his wheel to the top. It was tempting, but I thought I needed a break and had arranged to meet Ian at the Chalet. He'd been to the summit and come back down for me! I was glad of the break. Although the next few kilometres after the chalet aren't too steep, the last two are stinkers, but I was pleased with how I climbed, even managing to overtake a few in the final stages, partly thanks to an energy tablet handed to me by a lovely Dutch support member! The French guy in front of me was "too cool" to accept, but I was grateful!
The weather had been perfect so far, warm, cloudy, and still, with even a helpful wind near the top. Then the bad weather was on it's way, with cold mist swirling around the lunar landscape and weather station, emblematic of this mountain. Right near the top, a steep section right into a stiff wind, but then that was it- the summit, and it was brilliant. Just one stop at Chalet Reynard all the way up the 23k climb, and I'd felt great, finally starting to see what this cycling thing is all about! Ian ascended in an excellent 1hour47mins, with me nearly one hour later! Next time, no stopping at the Chalet! But that's for next year, Then a chilly cycle down to Malaucene on the far side of Ventoux, and a delightful climb through vineyards, peach orchards and almond groves, to the top of Col de Madeleine, and then all the way down to Bedouin. An absolutely stunning journey off, ending with a pizza and a couple of beers in a bar in the village. 36 miles, 6000ft ish ascent, 4hrs 25mins in the saddle, and a stiff back! But well worth it!
By mid afternoon, the weather had deteriorated to a full-blown thunderstorm and heavy rain, so time for a rest!

St Point and Burgundy

2011-07-10T09:48:00.000+01:00

Chateau Bertzel

Heading north, we made for the camp-site by the Lac near Saint Point, just inside Burgundy. We’d been there a couple of years before, and it’s a good stopping off point on the long journey home. We spent a couple of days exploring the hills around the little town of Tramayes, long, gradual hills rather than the steep climbs we’ve been doing.

Today we set off up the biggest hill around, La Mere Boitier, at 760m. A good climb and then downhill most of the way to Macon, past vineyards of Saint Veran, Beaujolais, Pouilly Fuisse and Macon-Pierreclos. Vineyards everywhere. Macon is a busy commercial town, but we didn’t explore, just had something to eat and then off on the Voie Vert/Green Route most of the way back to Saint Point. The voie vert are great cycle paths much like our railway trails, but better surfaced, and there’s a network of them all over France- really taking off- must find out more!

Pierreclos

Tomorrow we set off north and will decide on the next stopover depending on weather

As it turned out-

Weather poor. Ian desperately in need of wifi, tv for Tour de France, English voices, no more flies, his own bed etc etc So once we were on the road north, we went for it and ended up 4 miles away from Calais, and an earlier ferry- but then it has been 4 weeks since we left those fair shores. Ah well, at least we can contact loved ones, and see little faces over Skype!

Back in Beaufort

2011-07-07T19:39:00.000+01:00

Mont Blanc in background at Tetes des Fours

After a few hours’ drive, we were back in Beaufort at my favourite site, Camping des Sources- beautiful, tranquil setting, with waterfall tumbling the cliffs behind, beautiful, loved gardens and facilities. The site was quieter than we’ve ever known it, but that seems to be the case wherever we’ve been. The couple remembered that we’d been a couple of times before. 3 or 4 nights here to explore the cycling and walking, order the local beaufortain bread (with lardons and nuts), trying and get wifi to finally post some blogs, and enjoy some peace and quiet, after the busy Bourg d’Oisan. One of the worst thing about staying at the hotel, was the terrible night’s sleep we had- local drunks shouting until the wee small hours, then the cleaning lorry street cleaning, then the road repairing lorries coming through!!

The next few days we spent cycling up the tranquil and stunningly beautiful Cormet de Roselend(1.46), up the Col de Pre, a steep climb out of Beaufort, the Col de Saisies(1.42), with its surprisingly clear view of Mont Blanc, as we cycled around the hairpins.. The cycle up the Col de Joly would have to wait for another year.

We did a cracking walk up past the Refuge de la Croix de Bonhomme and on to Tete de Fours, with its orientation table, but we didn’t need it to find Mont Blanc, white and clear in the distance. From the Tete, it looked so close, still covered in snow. It was an amazing day, with totally clear blue sky, and no wind, but very chilly towards the top at 2800m Being a Sunday, and an impeccable day, there were lots of people trying to get a closer look of the mountains, all 360deg of them, right over to the border with Italy and the pretty Mont Pourri. Five and a half hours later we were back at the van, then off to the edge of the Lac du Roselend, which is really a reservoir, for a wild camping night. Lovely spot to watch the sun go down on a grand day out. Chilly night, but 3000’ up!

Sad to be leaving this area, and will miss the peace and quiet, the cool, crisp air, the smell of all the hundreds of wild and alpine flowers, the sound of the tinkling of the cow bells, the beautiful brown faces of the cows (but wow they make expensive cheese averaging about 13euros for a chunk of cheese!)

My Marmotte!

2011-07-07T19:32:00.002+01:00

After spending the afternoon and night up at Col de Lauteret, with magnificent mountain top views, we drove over Col de Galibier and off down the valley into Valloire. I was trying to commit the gradients to memory, as we’d be cycling the exact same route back up Galibier tomorrow.

Last night at Lauteret was a bit fraught, with hundreds of flies besieging the van. There are flocks of sheep (and angry shepherdesses, sick of campervanners distracting her pyrennean mountain dogs (pastou) from doing their jobs), and the whole area is very fertile and pastoral, and fly-ridden. We had a great walk over to gaze up at the “Meige” mountain, and promised ourselves to come back and do a longer walk next time, down into a lovely valley. There were thousands of different wild flowers, and a large yellow one, called Gentiane, from which a local sweet liqueur is made.

Just before the hard bit!

We based the van at a camp-site in Valloire and set off up Galibier at about 9.30am. It was already steaming hot and set to be the hottest day of the summer so far, at about 36deg. The climb up to Galibier was a hard 10miles to 2600m, but wasn’t as bad as I’d expected. Unfortunately they were tarmacking the road at the summit so we had to do a detour up to the top and then back down to go through the tunnel. There were far too many tunnels to go through back down to Bourg d’Oisan, and some were very poorly lit. Ian had a little flashing torch clipped to the back of his rucksack, so that we could be better seen by cars and occasional lorries in the tunnels. Very nervous and glad to be out the other end of them! There was just one extra climb up the Ferrand valley, with views down the steep gorge sides, before we free-wheeled and then cycled into the wind on our way down to B d’ Oisan. A total of 42miles, we were glad to relax at the end. We hadn’t needed to carry much extra clothing with us, because it was so very hot. At least the afternoon breezes had helped to stop it being unbearable, but we dived for the shower, once we’d signed ourselves in at the Hotel Milan. Not a great place, to say the least. Health and Safety would have had a field day- an air of decay and dilapidation and not even clean! The bed-linen was clean, the room was cool and the shower worked, and that was about it! None of the loos worked in the hotel, so there were some very embarrassed faces at check-out!

We knew it was going to be another hot, long day, so we set off by 8am. Up to the ski village of Allemont, a nice gentle 10mile start, and then the climb up past the Vaugany turn-off, with the Belledonne mountain range off to our left. Steeply up to the village of le Rivier d’Allemont, with its memorial to those who fought in the Resistance, and then all that height lost as we plunged steeply downhill across the river, and then very steeply uphill to the Barrage and reservoir of the Grand’Maison. I was absolutely spent but just about had enough energy for the final ascent up to Col de la Croix de Fer. A couple of fizzy drinks at a bar, just before the last climb. The views all the way up had been fantastic, but the last section is particularly stunning scenery- big, sweeping green mountain sides, two huge eagles gliding over the scene. Wonderful, but very, very hard. Col de Galibier had been less exhausting than I’d expected, but we were both shocked at how hard we’d found this climb. Unfortunately Ian had had to wait for me for quite a while!

Climbing to Col de la Croix de Fer

The descent down into St jean de Maurienne was awesome, vertiginous drops into steep gorges, but the road surface was aweful, with deep ruts and chunks missing! Apparently the Marmotte doesn’t go this way off any more, because it’s so bad, and they’ve replaced Croix de Fer, with Col de Glandon, and a different, safer route off. Then there was a rather miserable, uphill, busy road section between St Jean and St Michel de Maurienne, of about another 10miles. At least it was cooler now, as we tackled our last climb of the day up Col de Telegraphe. After a coffee in a bar, we set off up the final climb - the col de Telegraph. Made in just over 1.5 hrs - well pleased. Overall did over 64 miles and 9000 ft of ascent today - the most climbing I have ever done.

Vaujany Cycle Event 2011

2011-07-02T18:25:00.001+01:00

At finish!

With the race starting at 7.30am, about 30mins up the road, it was an early start, up at 6am, tea and porridge, and then off. Dropped Ian off about 15mins down the road from the start of the race. He was surprised to meet one of his old colleagues from Whitbread, pulling into the same lay-by to get ready!

I brought the van back to the site, and set about cleaning the “house” and catching up with a few jobs. We’ll be wild camping at our favourite mountain spot on the Col de Lauteret, so no facilities and a few preparations necessary. I had a few hours before I needed to set off to meet Ian at the end of the event in the village of Vaujany, so time to catch up with the blogs!

With Keith Lunn old Whitbread colleague

We’ve booked in at a local hotel to stay overnight next week, as we cycle through Bourg d’Oisan on the Marmotte circuit. I’m really looking forward to it. My first big alpine climb up the Col du Galibier, followed by the Col de la Croix de Fer and Col du Telegraphe. The Marmotte starts and finishes at Bourg d’o, but because we are continuing north, we made the decision to base ourselves at Valloire. The Marmotte also finishes at Alpe d’Huez, but I know my limits! There’s no way I’m adding that one to the itinerary again!

Up towards Vaujany

Ian was hard on my heels, as I climbed up to Vaujany village, which was every bit as difficult as the climb yesterday, if a little shorter. I managed to get a great shot of him going past, with superb mountain views behind him, as he strained up the final km to the village, a glass of water and a beer. It was extremely hot and getting hotter, about 34deg! The van being down the valley in Bourg d’Oisan, we had to cycle back, which was lovely for me, able to enjoy all the mountain scenery, but yet another 11miles for Ian, on top of 69miles and 8000’ climbing, with a mountain-top finish! So maybe that’ll keep him quiet for a while! He was chuffed to bits to find that his time of 5hrs 5mins was a gold standard!

Just before the finish at 1500m

Back to a campsite that is beginning to fill up with mad Dutch cyclists. You can see too much spandex and bib-shorts, so it is time to move on to our favourite piece of solitude up on Col de Lauteret tomorrow. At 2000m it’ll be a bit cooler as well!

Alpe d'Huez

2011-07-02T18:19:00.001+01:00

A well pleased Marie on the Alpe!

Alpe d’Huez, short and not so sweet!

Nearly there!

Really chilly last night, but a lovely day in store, as we set of at about 8am. On the 1000m climb up to the ski station of Alpe d’Huez, with its 21 virages/hairpins, each dedicated to famous cyclists of the past and present. All the way up there is graffiti all over the road, mainly in Dutch, spurring on their heroes of the Tour de France. Even at 8am, there are cyclists coming back down the mountain. It’s hard going the first few kms, with some sections of 12% gradient, and then it steadies off to 8%. You smile for the cameras, waiting on the last virage to catch the first bit of business of the day!! The experienced young studs don’t smile, or say allez, cos they’re far too cool for school!! They push past on the bends, having changed gear, and get off the saddle to show you what the youngsters can do! I plugged away in the same gear, and was really excited to find that I was able to keep going all the way to the top, about 14km. But my backside was in agony, aching and sore, but I did it. Ian was already at the top, having a good rest and a coffee, finishing in 1hr 07mins, faster than last time. At 1hr 53mins, I think I was about the same as last time, but the biggest difference was managing to keep going. As we shot down the hill, it was satisfying to see how steep it had been, and how many had felt the need to stop. The views over the mountains were magnificent, and there was time to pause, get circulation back to the fingers, and enjoy the experience. The road was full of cyclists and traffic, and it had been much nicer setting off earlier.

A short ride, but time for Ian to recuperate ready for the Vaujany cycle event tomorrow.

Nimes to Bourg d'Oisan

2011-07-02T18:10:00.000+01:00

Not much happened today. Drove about 150miles to the southern alps and pastures familiar. First stop the Casino supermarket in Bourg d’Oisans, and then a reccy to find le Verney, and the edf parking area, where Ian’s Vaujany cycle sportive is from, on Sunday. Then back to camp overnight at Les Cascades site, 28euros, compared with an average 13euros in Pyrenees! Welcome to the Alps- high mountains and high prices to match!!! They’re all about the same price around here, and it is a lovely site, set amongst the trees, with nice, big pitches. This was going to “home2 for 3 nights (the longest stay yet!), so it was great to be somewhere so lovely, with mountains towering all around, and yet good restaurants and bars, full of crazy Dutch cyclists! Tomorrow’s steep climb up the Alpe d’Huez was only a stone’s throw away, not even enough time to warm legs up first.

We had a nice, basic menu de jour at La Rive Gauche, and checked out accommodation at a local hotel, with a view to doing La Marmotte cycle route, next week. 65 euros for the night and 10euros each for breakfast.

Peyrepertuse

2011-07-02T18:06:00.000+01:00

Walking up to the castle

In the land of the Cathars, there are ruins of Cathar castles dating back to 13^th Century, perched high on vertiginous peaks, dotted all along what was until 1659, the border with Spain. Driving past Cucugnan, towards the little village of Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse, we parked up at an aire and walked the remaining couple of miles through pineapple-scented broom, and past a profusion of wild flowers, dianthus, carnation, cornflowers, camomile and dozens of others.

The previous night had been full of lightning, thunder and pouring rain, oh and high winds! It was a relief to waken to a half-decent day! As we picked our way through the boxwood, towards the entrance to the castle, it became much cooler and cloudier, so the tour around the castle wasn’t as relaxed as it might have been. A stunning castle which rambles along up the rock summits. Must have been tortuous to build. The views over the surrounding countryside, vineyards of the Pays d’Oc, across to the intriguing castle of Queribus, the last Cathar stronghold to fall, and far into the distance to Perpignan and the sea, make you appreciate the motivation behind building these fortifications!

A plat du jour at a local tavern (11euros each), and we were off north and east towards the Rhone Valley. We overnighted at a great spacious aire at Chusclan, just off the motorway near Nimes. Great spot, with water, individually-shaded bays, with picnic tables, but sadly no toilets!

Within 5mins of parking up, our French “neighbours” came across and asked if we would like to join them for an aperitif. Henri, Solonge and Henri’s mother, Odile, are from Nimes and were on their way back home. It was Odile’s birthday today, 80, and clearly thrilled to be enjoying it with her family. We talked of where we’d been and where to next. Henri had cycled in the Pyrenees too. He had worked for 32 years on the railways, and his wife had been a nurse. They loved their new Hymer van, and talked of travels to Italy, Florence, Spain and Portugal. They hadn’t been to Britain because of the poor weather. (From what we’ve heard, this summer’s shaping up to be a bit of a Wimbledon-wash-out!) They recommended various parts of France for the food, particularly Auvergne. They too had been to Beaufort and loved the beaufortain bread and cheese, which I’m really looking forward to! We made our excuses and went back to the van to make a meal, and for me to re-charge, after having to concentrate on understanding and responding in French for a good hour! Exhausted!! Later I remembered a cake I’d bought in Luz-St-Sauveur, peculiar to that area, a “broche cuit au feu sur les pendilles”, which seems to be a cake cooked over an open fire daubed onto a large wooden skewer. I tried it first and then took our hosts a few slices, saying that it was like a birthday cake for maman. They seemed delighted, but I hoped they liked the cake!

Later we walked into the little village of Chusclan, with a couple of lively bars by the river, and a lively one in town. It had more life than we’d seen so far in a small place. Historical fact- the locals were divided into culs-rouges and culs-blancs (red-arses and white-arses) depending upon their revolutionary or patriotic politics, and they met in different bars in this tiny hamlet!

The Final Leg!

2011-07-02T18:01:00.000+01:00

The final leg!/ Axat to Perpignan

We woke to dampness all around. Moisture hanging in the air and more heavy clouds. Looks like today’s going to be another mixed day! It’s the final day of our journey through the Pyrenees. We’re now in the Languedoc-Rousillon region, and specifically the Occitane, the country of the Cathars, the Templars and the Holy Grail, Montsegur being among dozens of castles perched precariously on high mountain peaks, visible for miles around. Out of the forests and woods and into Mediterranean maquis/scrub. For Ian, along mainly downhill section along quiet country roads. For me, main dual carriageways into Perpignan, getting progressively more and more busy. I made for an aire just outside St Cyprien , and again Ian wasn’t far behind! Can’t say the driving was satisfying today, and I long for the mountain climbs, the solitude and the isolation!

The weather picked up late afternoon and finally the sun came out, but very sticky! Lovely sheltered, roomy aire, if we should ever find ourselves back here- highly unlikely! The only way to visit this coastal area is by sea!

We celebrated Ian’s journey with a glass of Cremant, sparkling wine! Looking forward to visiting Peyrepertuse Cathar Castle tomorrow.

Les Cabannes to Axat

2011-06-30T15:40:00.000+01:00

Les Cabannes to Axat

Ian went the direct Route des Cols, over the Col de Pailheres (second highest pass in the Pyrenees), and then into the Aude valley. Again having to travel north, then east, then south, I arrived not long before he did, at a lovely little campsite at Axat, high up a forest track. The foret dominiales here are massive and go on for miles!

After lunch I went for a cycle up the valley de Rebenty, across to Aunat in the hills, to the Col de Notre Dame and then back down the Aude valley. It was a superb 27ml circuit, following rivers, through towering gorges, out onto plateaus and farmland, and then steeply back down to Axat. The weather took a turn for the worse whilst I was out, with thunder rumbling around the tops of the hills and lightening flashing too close for comfort. At Bessedes, I thought about pulling in for a while, but pulled myself together and pedalled as fast as I could down the valley. Steam rising from the rain-soaked, hot roads, gave the appearance of descending into hell, which did nothing for my nerves!

Anyway back safe and extremely wet again! That evening we sat under the awning watching the lightening flashing in the hills, and the storm clouds moving up the valley from the south. It was dramatic, and the sky was a strange colour of metal grey and pink. The rain poured down in buckets, and in fact I did a bit of recycling and filling large buckets up with rain water, which poured off the awning, and then syphoned it into the van, a la Ray Mears!

Niaux

2011-06-30T15:37:00.001+01:00

Marie climbing to Route des Corniches

Ian’s second “day off”/ Caves of Niaux twinned with Creswell, Mansfield!!!

Ian’s day off started with an early morning cycle with me, up a quiet lane out of Les Cabannes, on the Route de Cornichons, through little hameaux and hills above the road to Andorra in the valley below, and with views of the mountains in the distance. Steep to start with, and then very pleasant, skirting meadows and plateaux, through little villages, and up to the Chateau, remains of a Cathar stronghold, set high on a hill. Montsegur is not far away, but will have to wait for another visit, but we’re hoping to see the chateau of Peyrepertuse, which is supposed to be stunning.

After lunch, we set off for the caves of Niaux, a few miles back down the road to Foix. Visits by appointment only, and I’d previously called in and arranged that yesterday. Famous for its wall drawings in black and red, about 800m deep inside the cave in the Salon Noir. Extraordinary, sophisticated drawings of bison, horses, and ibex, so accurately drawn with perspective, using the cave wall features to depict shoulders and tails, they could have been painted yesterday! But they’ve been carbon-dated at 14,000 years ago, in something called the Magdalenian period. There was a dramatic moment, when the guide turned off all the torches and we left in total darkness, whilst one of our American visitors sang Amazing Grace, to demonstrate the acoustic beauty of the place! We all stood there in silence in the dark, for a few minutes. I realised I’d never been in total darkness before, and it was quite special. To stand in the same place where 14000 years ago, homo sapiens had been depicting animals, that they worshipped or at least revered!

Entrance to cave

The guide asked us where we were from, and told us that there were some cave carvings found about 7years ago, in, get this, Creswell Crags, just down the road from us at Worksop. He was so enthusiastic about them, gave us a leaflet and everything. It was bizarre to travel all this way to the border with Spain, to pick up a leaflet advertising a cave, about 30miles away from home. So we promised we’d pay it a visit. It was so important to him, and he added that it had initiated a whole new era of reference called the Creswellian period in artistic and cultural history!! Well, well!

Enough culture! Back to the aire for a beer in the sun and catch-up with the blog stuff! Still haven’t managed to post blogs yet, without Wi-Fi in all locations up to now! But we’ve managed to catch up with the girls and find out where they’re up to. Haven’t seen Lily’s face for a while now and I’m missing here, or as I like to call her “Lickle Pickle”! Kate and Michael skyped Andrew and Lizzy a few days ago, and said Lily looked great!

Seix to Les Cabannes

2011-06-30T15:31:00.000+01:00

Les Cabannes

From Seix to Les Cabannes, still in Ariege

Gradually working our way through the Midi-Pyrenees, and still in the Ariege region. Ian set off over the Cols de La Trappe, D’Agnes, and the Port de Lers before dropping down to the village of Vicdessos and later Les Cabannes. I followed the easy road to St Girons, and its massive paper-making factory, then on to the medieval town of Foix, with imposing castle, and then Tarascon-sur-Ariege and on to a “aire” at Les Cabannes, another tiny little village. Today was good – a visit to a artisat cooperative to buy goodies like home-grown herbal tisane, home-made chocolate from Foix, elderflower digestif of 12per cent proof, and best of all some lovely hand-crafted buttons, made from local birch and fruit woods and finished and drilled locally. A little chat with the owner confirmed that houses in the area are bought up as second-homes by English and Dutch. The town, Castelnau Durban is full of traffic and people for a few short months in the summer, but closed from the second week of September onwards. So glad to be here when it’s so quiet and people have time to make conversation, but absolutely dead at night. Good job we’re not interested in night-life, and are quite happy with a glass of wine, The Wire dvd, and an early night.

Much hotter today, and sunny all day. The landscape changed to more Mediterranean almost upon leaving Foix. It was such a clear change, or was it just the weather. Forecast for the next few days – hot and sunny. At last!!!

Into the Ariege

2011-06-30T15:28:00.000+01:00

Into Ariege/ Seix to be specific

Woke to a miserable 15deg and rain! Ian’s got a long, hilly but not dramatic day ahead, which is as well, because he’s not going to see anything!

They’ve had a lot of rain recently, and the drive north to St Gaudin and east to St Girons was miserable and uninviting. It was a relief to be heading south again into what I can imagine would be pretty countryside, if it weren’t so miserable! Little site just outside Oust near the river Salat, and quite expensive at 19euros, plus 7 for the washer/dryer- which we need now!

I did a cycle on my own up and around the Col de Serrailles, but not to top. Just as I set off, Ian arrived absolutely frozen, so I left him to it, soup in the pan, and cup of tea brewing! My cycle was very scenic up to a lovely meadow/plateau called the Prat de Cominac. Absolutely beautiful but miserable weather, and very wet.

We went for a wander early evening into yet another sleepy, empty village with posters of yet another fete we’d missed, the night before- the fete of Sent Joan, with a bonfire and all that! It seems that a lot of these little villages are filled with people/second-home owners, between the months of July and August, and are closed for much of the remainder. Local shops advertise that they will be open from the rest of June, 7 days a week, until early September, but there like ghost towns until then!

Col de Peyresoude

2011-06-30T15:22:00.000+01:00

Col de Peyresourde and Bagneres de Luchon

A short but steep day for Ian over the Col de Peyresourde, and a convoluted drive for me north to Lannemezan, east and then finally south to Bagneres-de-Luchon, another town celebrated for its “Therme” or spa. Most of the towns around here are once-famous spa towns with “eaux vives”. Lovely grand hotels, many sadly now closed. Sanitation isn’t such a big deal now and clean water’s everywhere, so these once much visited places seem quite sad and empty!

Talking of “sad and empty”, I had a long conversation with the proprietor of the camp site before I left. He’s been running the site for over 20years and has never known it so quiet. We were the only people on site last night, and nobody booked in for some time. Now we like it like this. We’ve never booked a site and they’ve always been extremely quiet, in contrast to the aires which have been surprisingly full! The guy was really depressed about the future, saying that the economy has put most people off going on holiday, and I didn’t tell him about the situation re: aires! He even suggested that we could do with a war to give people work and prosperity! Interesting!

Anyway off to an aire near centre of Bagneres-de-Luchon. Free overnight accommodation (but last night’s site only cost 13euros), and good to be in town tonight, as we’ll be in the middle of nowhere tomorrow. As usual aire nearly full! We aim to have a meal in town, if we’ve got overnight stay for free, and anyway, we’re ready for a meal out by then! Ate quite cheaply at a local brasserie. Great, fresh food- salmon, fennel, pepper and rice and fruit salad to follow.

That afternoon, I went for a cycle just up and down the valley, a fast 20miles, averaging 14.6mph, fastest I’ve done so far, thanks to go-faster bib-shorts, or pervy-pants as I like to call them, which Ian bought me for my birthday some months hence!!

Col de Tourmalet

2011-06-30T15:15:00.000+01:00

Col de Tourmalet- Col d’Aspin and Vielle Aure

Ian set off at about 9am, whilst I took my time and re-filled supplies at the local Carrefour. Then off north to Lourdes, Tournay and then south towards the high Pyrenees and Spain again. I could have taken the same route as Ian, and would have done but the weather was poor- misty, drizzly and cold. The route directly east goes over the Tourmalet and then over Col d’Aspin and then on to the campsite at Vielle Aure in the Aure valley, just beyond Arrau. The drive over was a delight in spite of the poor weather. Rolling wooded hills- a bit like an expanded version of Monsal Dale!

Ian arrived pretty promptly- 43 miles and 6800’ climbing, and was frozen. A couple of cups of hot tea and lunch later and he was feeling a lot better. I set off to do some of the Aspin climb, but found it a nice gradient and continued on to the top, 1470m. But it was cold and raining near the top, and the warmth of the success of getting to the top at a good pace, without stopping wasn’t enough to stop me shivering! The route down was a bit scary because it was really wet, but at least not so steep, occasionally 8%, but mainly 6%. I tried to exorcise my demons of downhill fears, but still had to stop a few times to hug my hands and get some feeling back in them. It’s really taken me aback, how hard coming down is. I think I hate it more than going up!!

Luz Ardiden

It was my turn to need hot tea and took ages to warm up. It’s so cold, but our friendly host assures us that it will be sunny tomorrow. Very warm and friendly in this area. Ian is about half-way though this year’s odyssey. I’m amazed at how strong he is at climbing this year. He’s really improved, but the down side is I’ve lost my cycling buddy!!

Meeting cousin Martin

2011-06-30T15:10:00.000+01:00

Meeting up with cousin Martin and Jo and their family

In the morning, we decided to have a go at Luz Ardiden climb, before travelling down the Gave de Gavarnie to meet up with Martin and Jo at Arras-Lavedan. For me a challenge, but for Ian a day off, “leg-turner”! 14k and 1000m climb through wooded hills, and gradients of 9%! I’d forgotten how hard these horrible ski station climbs are. The weird thing is that coming down is easily as painful, with hands straining to grip the brakes! I had to stop just to get sensation back into numb fingers. Bit more frightened after falling off and that’s made going downhill much tougher!! May be being negative, but it was a crap route! Chased up by hundreds of flies, who were going faster than me and had to stop once to recover from swallowing on of my companions! Once on summit, what could you say about it- it’s a ski station- not much to look at, no facilities, no celebration orange juice and fizzy water! Rubbish!

At start of walk in Gavarnie

Once recovered from the stinky downhill, we set off to Arras-Lavedan to visit my cousin. I haven’t seen him for about 36years, and he and his twin brother were only about four years old when I last saw him, running around the tent on one of the joint camping holidays in Norfolk we had together with my uncle and dad’s families. He , Jo and their three children have been living out in France for eight years, in a lovely old house in the Pyrenees. It was great to catch up with them, or really get to know them from scratch. It was great that we seemed to get on so well and had lots to talk about. We admired the way they had taken up residence in France, both being able to speak the language really well, in spite of little before they went out there, but they have put themselves out there, and circulated with the locals. Their daughter was born out there, and so they have that necessary contact with other parents, pushing them to communicate in French. Ian and I had also forgotten what it’s like to have a young family, and how there’s always something to do. All too soon, we had to be off, but promised that we would come back and see them all again. There’s so much still to do in this area, particularly walking and cycling. So we’ll definitely be returning.

We returned to Luz-St-Sauveur and changed into Sunday best to go and watch some Pyreneean Singing, which had been advertised near the old church. I’d hoped it would outside in the open-air, with the mountains in the background, but the performance was in the church, which is beautiful but sombre. We hung around outside to measure whether we were up for sitting inside, only to hear the durge-like tune of “Auld langs Syne” sung in French. Didn’t hang around! They’d highjacked that famous Scottish anthem, and tried to pass it off as Pyreneean. Ian needed no second chance. He never wanted to go anyway! So back to the van, and a “digestif” still dressed in best frock, and smart shirt!!

After 3 days here, it’s starting to feel like home and we’ll definitely re-visit “Les Cascades” and its welcoming owner.

Aramits - Luz

2011-06-30T15:04:00.000+01:00

Aramits- Luz-St-Sauveur

Big day for Ian (and me!). Ian set off as usual at about 9am with two big climbs ahead- Col de Marie-Blanque (1300m) and Col d’Aubisque(1710m) and a long day (74miles) to the campsite at Luz St Sauveur. A total of 8800’ ascent! And it proved to be no picnic for me either, with a scary mountain route! I had the choice between driving north to Lourdes and then south to Argeles-Gazost, or the more direct route with half the distance, but over the Col d’Aubisque ahead of Ian. I chose the latter. Mountain passes in the Alps had been exciting, with fabulous views and I’d felt totally safe on wide, well-surfaced roads. The Pyreneean roads are entirely different, being very narrow with few spread out passing places. So my heart was in my mouth! It was just about OK as long as I didn’t meet any more campervans coming the other way. The scariness was compounded by swirling mist and cloud at the summit, so I was heartily glad to be over the other side and back down the valley to what seemed like an interesting place to stay at Argeles-Gazost. But we couldn’t . We were to camp further down the valley, past where my cousin, Martin, lives at Arras –Lavendan, and to a great little site perched up the hillside at Luz-Saint-Sauveur. Very quiet with one bar/restaurant open and several others closed! Another very sleepy but pretty village, with a chapel dating back to the 11thcentury. The Tour de France will be coming through here on July 14 and its another staging post on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. A sign at the Cirque de Gavarnie informed that Compostela was 915km away!

I arrived and “pitched” the van and set off on a gentle but definite climb up to the Cirque de Gavarnie. Uphill all the way, in worsening weather (Ian later told me that it had been lovely back at the van), but when I finally arrived 13miles/one and a half hours later, the view of the cirque was awesome- a magnificent grey, mountainous barrier separating France from Spain. Towering mountains and waterfalls, which you couldn’t see the top of because of clouds and mist. Can’t wait to bring Ian back here tomorrow. Back down the hill and really cold by the time I reached the site, but hot showers soon sorted that out.

We have now left the Basque area and are in the Haute Pyrenees – signs are in French only! After a hard day we decided to eat out at La Tasca in Luz – very good food but ate too much and suffered all night! Ian said that chicken was almost as good as his “Sunday Tea Special”!

France 2011

2011-06-22T17:25:00.000+01:00

France June 2011

After overnight at the Black Horse Farm site near Folkestone, we were off on the early ferry to Calais. Although going west, and Caen being considerably nearer, the ferries to Caen seemed very expensive, so we opted for the cheaper route, which meant a long drag across the north of France, before making real headway.

First overnight saw us on an aire in Vouvray . Toilet but no other facilities, but free. On the banks of the river Cisse, running alongside the Loire. We’d driven down overtaken by hundreds of Morgans, Porsches, Jaguar to name but a few famous makes of sports car, all heading down to the Le Mans 24 hr.grand prix, on 11/12 June. Recession- what recession!

First impressions- not much to do in Vouvray, other than visiting palatial old vineyards, which are lined up one after another alongside the Loire.

After a long drag the day before, we lined up a much shorter day to La Rochelle, and were there just in time for a moules and frites late lunch. We parked the van on a busy little aire on a large car park just 10mins walk from the city. Great spot and again free, but no facilities at all. We really enjoyed our time in La Rochelle- walking through the park, and then near the impressive three towers in the port. They used to stretch a chain across between the two towers either side of the port entrance, to stop undesirables arriving at night.

The third stage of our journey was towards Bayonne, in the Basque region- different, indecipherable language, which looks nothing like any of the “romantic” languages. Lampposts plastered with protest posters showing photos of young political prisoners. Road signs where the French alternative (given precedence) is scrawled out in favour of the basque. For all that, we found people extremely friendly and welcoming and unused to speaking English.

I dropped Ian off on the first stage of his Trans-Pyreneean cycle, from a cul-de-sac in Bayonne, and arranged to meet him at another aire in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Donalbane Garatzis in Basque, in a car park at the back of a Carrefour supermarket. Fantastically close to town but absolutely no facilities- Ian having to use the local “pissoire” before setting off on the next stage of his tour! So we don’t always stay in beautiful locations! We really like Saint Jean with its Vauban garrison fortifications, and its 13^th century buildings and its steep inner streets. Lovely relaxed, quiet feel to the place, and would go back again. It is a stop on the Santiago de Compostelle pilgrimage and only 5miles from the Spanish frontier. Road signs for Pamplona and Zaragoza to be seen along route.

Sunshine in Borrowdale

2011-05-19T16:50:00.000+01:00

Innominate Tarn - Wainwrights favourite spot

Now Borrowdale is famous for being the wettest place in England. But we've visited three times in the last 12months and enjoyed glorious sunshine! And so it was as we set off early walking up to Haystacks and Innominate Tarn, via Honister Pass. A pause for lunch at one of the most beautiful and tranquil tarns, and then on to Haystacks, a curious collection of rocks. Back down the pass for a much-needed shower. The facilities on the islands can be a bit basic, and the weather wasn't conducive to stripping off in a cold shed with a concrete floor.

We've been visiting the camp site in Borrowdale on and off, since we were in our teens. Nothing has changed. They still charge very little, and the facilities are basic, but the position is fantastic, with 360deg of hill and mountain views, no buildings, just fields and sheep!! Hang on a minute- there is a good pub 10minutes walk away. As you emerge from the shed/showers with wet hair and no hope of drying it, because there's no electricity, you look around and think "It doesn't get much better than this". Weather- dependent of course

Abandon all Hope!!

2011-05-18T16:49:00.000+01:00

Ferry from Tobermory to Arnamurchan

Although we woke to a dry but very windy morning, the forecast is for torrential rain and gale force winds in the Western Isles, with an improving picture further South. In fact, parts of the South East are suffering the worse droughts in 35years!

We caught the early ferry from Tobermory to Ardnamurchan, one of the most inaccessible and solitary places in Britain. Ardnamurchan, Sunart, Moidart, Morvern and Knoydart are spectacular places to be alone! Single-track, very rough roads, one road travelling for miles and miles, around lochs and glens, with hardly any habitation. Every twist and turn in the road gave a different view. Sometimes across Loch Sunart and Loch Shiel, then across the sea to Muck and Eigg,and then out towards the pretty Arisaig peninsular. After some time driving around the Peninsular, we arrived at Lochailort, and decision time- north-west to Mallaig and stick with our original plan of journeying north to our much-loved Skye, or east to Fort William and then south, and abandon our plans. With the wind building and rain starting to fall again, south it had to be!!! What a shame! Skye and Applecross and the Pass of the Cattle would have to wait for next year!

Lunch stop

We kept driving on and on down the motorways (with messages advising to slow down because of strong winds), hoping for an improvement in the weather. We cheered up when we realised that the Lakes and particularly, Borrowdale, were do-able in time for a pie and a pint in the local pub! Forecast for tomorrow in this part of Britain, sunny with occasional showers. Brilliant! Cask beer, home-made steak pie and chips, and a walk up Haystacks and Innominate Tarn, beloved of Wainwright and where his ashes were scattered, in the sunshine, which we haven't seen for nearly ten days! Things were looking up!

Isle of Mull

2011-05-16T17:27:00.000+01:00

Ferry in Oban

Even though the weather forecast is dreadful, (heavy rain, cloudy tomorrow, then heavy rain, heavy rain, heavy rain!), we decided to head off to the Isle of Mull. We bought an island hopscotch ferry ticket for Oban to Craignure (Mull), Tobermory to Kilchoan (Ardnamurchan Peninsula, mainland) and Mallaig to Armadale (Skye) and then return from Skye over the bridge.

Landed in Oban on Monday, just in time to catch the ferry to Mull at 2pm. From about 12pm until 6pm it rained hard continually - got an intermittent leak in the van which is very frustrating! We drove down to the far south west of the island to Fionnphort which is port for departure to Iona. Found a great site, Fidden Farm, across from Erraid and a most beautiful position, a few metres from the shore and a white sand beach, with little inlets and coves. We stopped overlooking the sea and when, eventually, the rain stopped it was one of the most outstanding sites we have ever been to. The occupants of the few vans that were there promptly spilled out of their cosy homes, complete with binoculars and long lens cameras. A bird-twitchers paradise and so quiet. We were surprised how quiet the island was considering it is only 30 mins from Oban - single track roads around all of the island - very unspoilt.

Beach at Erraid

On Tuesday, with the only dry period forecast for the foreseeable, we caught the first ferry to Iona and had a wander around. Iona is a religious community, founded in 1938, where visitors are welcome. It is famous, of course, for being where St Columba landed in 550AD and established the first christian monastery. The original abbey has been rebuilt and houses guests from all over the world. It is quite a thriving community and busier especially when day trippers arrive from Oban. Thankfully we had come back to Mull before the hordes arrived, brought in on several large coaches.

Tobermory

Then the long drive to Tobermory, main town on Mull and inspiration for Ballymory, children's programme. We went via a very screnic route which shook us around a bit! Milk had turned to cheese by time we arrived in Tobermory! Next time we said we would go to Staffa to see Fingals cave and maybe take a wildlife tour to try and see the golden and sea eagles. There are a number of locations on the south and west of Mull, famous for sightings of these large birds. The road twists and turns under dramatic cliffs, with views of nearby large hills, the highest at 3000+ft, Ben More, and across the sea to the Treshnish Islands, Coll and Tiree, Inchkenneth, once owned by the Mitford family, Ulva and Little Colonsay. In the distance we could see Staff, with its dramatic form, but not the weather to take a cruise there today!

Tobermory is very pretty with it's multi coloured houses and a very secure natural harbour, and an enticing whisky distillery. Keep walking Marie!!!

Tomorrow we set sail to Kilchoan on the Ardnamurchan peninsula - weather forecast not good I am afraid.

Scotland in May

2011-05-15T14:46:00.002+01:00

May 2011 and it's off to "Bonnie Scotland" again

Off up North for the cycle event of the year- The Caledonian Etape, which we did last year. 81miles of fast, traffic-free cycling in the most stunning scenery along the banks of Loch Tummel, Loch Rannoch, Schiehallion and then back along the River Tay to Pitlochry. Unfortunately for me, I'm out of action and can only stand and watch, having come off my bike in Mallorca, fracturing two ribs. Four weeks on, the pain is finally beginning to subside, but I am not a patient patient, and couldn't feel sadder that I can't participate in this superb cycle event. Never mind, there's always next year!!

Riding along Loch Rannoch

Ian did fantastically well, shaving 17minutes off last year's time, coming in in 4hours and 20minutes- fantastic- averaging 18.7mph!!

Ben Vrackie

The previous day, I had the consolation of being able to get up Ben Vrackie, a cracking little hill at the back of Pitlochry, and it felt great to get out, and breathe deeply, and get some good exercise.

3 nights here at the Milton of Fonab site and off towards the Western Isles, weather permitting. Possibly exploring the Inner Hebrides, having visited the Outer islands last year in dreadful weather. Ian was lucky for the cycle race. The forecast had been for rain all day, and as it was, it was dry all am. and then drizzle later pm. Having set off at an unbelievable 7.01am, he was finished, showered and sitting in the van eating a venison pie, before the first spot of rain!

Cycling on Schieallion

Cornwall

2011-04-28T14:44:00.000+01:00

Pre-amble 2011

February 2011- Kids think we've lost the plot, as we settle down for a couple of days in........The Peak District! About half an hour from home!! We just thought we'd give the van a bit of a run out, after a very harsh winter, when we'd lost palms that we've grown for about 15 years, mature bay trees and mahonias, and ceanothus!

Just stayed a couple of nights, and walked from Mam Tor to Lose Hill. Had a great time, and the weather was even sunny. I think we both just missed being in the van!

April 2011- Cornwall Cycle Event

Climbing out of Port Isaac

We haven't been to Cornwall for ages, and were looking forward to the Cornwall Tor Cycle Sportive. Ian entered the 74 mile, and I the 45mile route. We stayed for 3 nights at the Valley Truckle site just outside Camelford. Great location and facilities. We went for a 14 mile walk out onto Bodmin Moor and part of the Camel Way. The following day a cycle ride to Tintagel. Beautiful weather again for the cycle event, starting at Bodmin, visiting Port Isaac, Tintagel, Boscastle, edge of Bodmin Moor and then through the Camel Valley back. Down, down, down steep valleys to delightful little bays, and the up up up very steeply again! Really hilly courses. Slow time but who cares! Ian did really well in 5hrs 8mins, and came 20th in his group. To finish the day off we sunbathed and had a barbeque - not bad for early April!

Later we went to Padstow and had a meal at Rick Stein's seafood restaurant - a snip at £37 each for a fixed lunch + wine!!! Was excellent though.

The day after we went to St Ives - absolutely beautiful weather - lovely place but a bit over-crowded and the Tate Gallery was a disappointment.

St Ives

The weather broke on the Wednesday so went home having had a great week and to get ready for our trip to Mallorca! It continues to be a hard life!

The view from the Formentor Lighthouse

Marie cycling on Formentor, Mallorca just before she fell off and broke two ribs!

Back to Miami and home

2011-03-19T17:01:00.000Z

After leaving Bonaire, we had a 2 day journey to Port Everglades in Ft Lauderdale. We got off the boat at 8.30am and went on a trip around Miami as we weren't flying out until 6.00pm
Its an attractive city as cities go, surrounded by water, lots of flashy boats and apartment blocks. We spent some time on Ocean Drive in South Beach looking at the art deco buildings. We fondly remembered The Lighthouse Family album pictured on Ocean Drive. There are lots of beautiful buildings from the 20's but as an area it is similar to LA in that it is all about money and physical attraction -if you haven't got one or the other then you don't exist!

The names Bond.....Jennie Bond!

I will finish with some photos and loads of great memories.

With my watercolour tutor Joanne

My best attempt ...not bad for a learner

Ocean Drive, Miami

Who's that with Marie Webster?

The Dutch Antilles - Bonaire

2011-03-19T16:07:00.001Z

Bonaire

Giving it plenty!

The Dutch Antilles - Bonaire

We approached at 7am, having lost yet another hours sleep. From the panarama of the gym, I could see the low-lying island, which rises to a mere 700' at its peak. Beautiful white coral beaches and a small settlement, with red-roofed houses and small hotels.

We walked up the shore in one direction for a reccy, past brightly-coloured, turquoise and yellow old sea-front shacks. Everything is so bright and cheerful here- the yellow, orange and turquoise, the bright blue sky and the blue sea, with the white sand patches of the nearby island of KleinBonaire in the distance. We saw some liitle green parrots, posing calmly in a tree, a local man gutting the large fish he'd just caught and cleaning them in the sea. The indigenous people speak Papiamentu, but most seem to flit between, Dutch and English or Dutch and Spanish.

After a draught Heineken, we strolled around an art shop, and then the local market. The Dutch people who have settled here and the locals have established an artists cooperative, selling only locally made and hand-crafted gifts, from decorated gourds, famous little "black mama" dollies, jewellry and painted postcards. No-one was pushing you to buy, the minute you raised your eyes, so you could browse and admire the skilled craftsmanship, and stroll calmly around. I bought a gourd Xmas tree decoration, with the features of a turtle burnt into it, and a palm leaf, which the artist had cut from a plant in his garden, and painted to look like a flying fish.

Later we hired a sorkel for $8, paid $10 each to use the facilities of the DiviFlamingo resort- a small development with showers, a bar and lots of sunbeds. The snorkelling was some of the best we've done- hundreds of brightly coloured fish, large parrot fish, some with beautifully marked scales, blue and yellow tangs, 2' pipe-fish (some of the largest I've seen), wrass, a puffer-fish, hiding in a cave, an octopus, boucing curiously along the sea-floor. The best experience yet of being in the water. I loved this tranquil. laid-back place, quite different to the more in-your-face tourism of some of the previous stops. But then there's not the same poverty as in Guatemala, and the culture and attitude to tourism is different to Mexico, who seem to see you as dollars coming ashore!!

Queen Victoria in Bonaire

One last swim in warm sea-water, for god-knows-how-long (7 deg at home currently), and then back on board before the horn signals to leave at 5pm. A lot of the crew had been ashore today. You could tell who were the crew- they were the young, slim ones! Our friend Sergei, wine-waiter from the Ukraine, was having a few short hours R&R before serving us again that same evening! A young girl with very short dress (and cheese-string knickers) was walking off to the beach! All the Filipino lads were swimming in the sea, laughing and joking. It was great to be back amongst young people, all vibrant and happy. I hadn't realised how much I'd missed people under 30!!

Snorkelling about 200 metres from the ship

Back on board after a relaxing afternoon, a real highlight of the trip, and then off on the first of a two day, two night sail, 1200 miles throught the Caribbean, past Haiti to starboard, Cuba to Port, landing at our final destination of Port Everglades, Florida, early morning Thursday. Trade winds are a constant force4-5, with swell now moving from our bow to beam. Everyone stagering around after dinner, and hard to tell who's had too much wine. Our friends from Wisconsin with a lovely "Canadian" sounding drawl, reminding me of the sherriff in Fargo, was struggling to cope with the listing. Some of our less mobile cruisers, probably about a third, and that's not always down to age!, are going to have difficulties if this continues all the way back!

Panama Transit

2011-03-19T15:58:00.000Z

Miraflores Lock

Panama Canal Transit Day- The Main Event

7am The first of three pilots for the transit came aboard. One of the rare occasions where a captain hands over the direction of his vessel to someone else. We glided past Panama City, with its towering skyscrapers to starboard, and the leper colony to port, where five inhabitants remain. One who had been transported there as young as 10 is now 75, and the colony has been her only home.

We would be raised up to the level of the Gatun Lake by two locks, called the MiraFlores, sail into the Gatun Lake, and the dropped back down to the level of the Atlantic Ocean by two more locks called the Pedro Miguel Locks. Each time the locks are drained to lower the vessel, water is lost, but then recycled for the use ib the city- 26million gallons per lock- so 52million gallons in total. No wonder one other priority in the present expansion of the canal, is the conservation of this water in secondary channels.

Incidentally, another striking fact- the Panama Canal is the only place in the world, where the sun rises on the Pacific side and sets on the Atlantic side, seemingly rising in the "East" and setting in the "West". All due to the little "kink" in the curvature of the land- quite disorientating!

Less than 2 feet either side!

Having heard so much of the excessively humid, wet conditions, we were surprised to find the eight hour transit from ocean to ocean quite pleasant in the brisk wind, but then this is the dry season. The wind in fact was so brisk that there was a bumping and jostling as we entered the Pedro Miguel locks, and the insurance assessors were sent for to assess the damage! Now here's the most mind-blowing statistic- the Queen Victoria is 106.9' beam, and she has as little as 1' either side of her in the locks!!!! I must have taken endless photographs of this insignificant gap- barely a tyres width! With this in mind, the efforts of the "mules" or little trains are crucial. The mules run on tracks, either side of the vessel, and tighten or slacken steel cables, which run from them to the vessel, to hold it as centrally as possible in the lock. Factor in a fresh wind, and that job becomes extremely difficult. Signals of bells beween mule drivers and the pilots aboard tell all that there ready to move through the lock. Even I found the engineering compelling, and I can see why some people would want to come back again and again for this spectacle.

The transit fees have been increased four times in the past year, and perhaps Panama City might have to be careful they don't price themselves out of the market. After all, Nicaragua is not far away. The first engineers narrowly voted against a transit through Nicaragua, but maybe one day there might be a Nicaragua Canal. The present canal cost the equivalent of $19 billion dollars of today's money. Perhaps the only people able to come up with such sums today would be the Chinese!

Container ship descending Gatun Locks

One more fact before we enter the Atlantic- because of the instability of the land in this are (remember mud-slides in Guatemala), finding "the angle of repose" or where the land settles and stops creeping back, means that the Panamanians are constantly having to dredge the canal basins. The scale of this is impressive. In fact, more material has been removed from the canal since building, than during the building!

With our backs to the Pacific we entered a blustery Atlantic, the Caribbean Sea, and set a course for the island of Bonaire, our only stop here. One of the Dutch Antilles, the ABC islands of Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao, are less that 40 miles off the north coast of Venezuala.

Crocodile just below Gatun Locks

During the night we sailed past Colombia and on towards the West Indies.

Fuerte Amador

2011-03-17T18:48:00.001Z

Iguana in a tree

Typical morning at sea- up early 7am, room-service for breakfast and then an hour and a half or so in the gym. Normally I'm painting with Joanne, a delightful teacher, but today I had to miss this to listen to a talk by Larry Rudner of 53 Panama crossings, about the Panama Canal. Very informative. It would be great to get a book about the building of the Canal,( "Path between The Seas" by D. Mc Culloch), because it has a fascinating history. About how The US triumphed over disease and engineering dilemmas to build the canal and then hand it over to the Panamanians in 1999. The French, after the success of building the Suez Canal, had a disastrous time in Panama, with at least 22,000 labourers losing their lives to a variety of deadly diseases, particularly malaria, which was believed to be airborne and not the result of a bite from mosquitoes. It was amazing to find that the regular solution to the prevention of bed-bugs and ants was to immerse the feet of the bed-posts in dishes of water, which when nice and warm and fetid, was a perfect breeding ground for the deadly mosquitoes! Every mile of the Canal can be measured by at least 500 lives cost- and at 54 miles that's an awful loss!

We arrived at our anchorage inFuerte Amador at about luch-time, but it was some time until we were ready to be taken by tender ashore. This is the only thing that doesn't always run smoothly, and means a lot of hanging around.

Eventually we were taken by coach load to our various excursions- we'd opted for the "Canal and Monkey Watch", which took us by speedy boat from a nature reserve to the Gatun Lake and a couple of little islands in the swamp area bordering the Panama Canal. It was agreat way to experience the Canal from the water, where tomorrow we would see it from the comfort of our large cruise ship. All the time our guide kept saying "You are here on the Canal, not in your big cruise ship"!

Panama City

We were fortunate to see a large iguana, basking in the hot sunshine on a mangrove branch. Later we saw howler monkeys, and got very close to some white-faced capuchin monkeys. A coach ride back, and after evening meal, we sat and watched dolphins, spurting as they surfaced and then diving and feeding. We'd seen dozens of turtles off the coast of Mexico, flying fish and whales, but dolphins are always magical. Every now and again, a pleasure boat would come close to us, and very speedily a search-light from our ship was spotting them and lighting them up.

Puerta Quetzal

2011-03-13T02:47:00.000Z

Turning coffee beans to dry out

March 10 Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala, Central America

Arrived in Guatemala 7am and were pushed into the berth by the tug boats, Amazonas and Hercules. We were on a berth, so no time spent queuing for tenders ashore, and we were off by 8am on a trip to the coffee estate of Finca Filadelphia. As we drove along very good highways past sugar cane plantations, with views across to some of the chain of twenty volcanoes, our guide explained that sugar is the number one export, then coffee, then bananas and Del Monte fruits (from the Atlantic East coast). Some sugar cane production is mechanised, but mostly it is harvested and grown by men. With an average earnings of $200 per month, labour is cheap.

Mainly Roman Catholic, the tendency is to have large families of maybe five children, and not send them to school, because they can help by working in the fields, so illiteracy stands at 25%, with children starting working as young as 8yrs. With a more liberal government, over the last few years, things are beginning to change. There is an encouragement of tourism, Antigua Guatemala has achieved UNESCO World Heritage status, and families are encouraged to give their children breakfast, and send them to school, by a payment of $40 per child per month. Before children would walk 2K to school with empty stomachs, if they went to school at all. The current governing party hav been encouraged by a friendship with Brasil and its successes.

Typical Bus in Guatemala

The average person is quite poor, average wage being approx $200 per month, and all the wealth is in the hands of 15 or so families, who own the coffee, amd sugar plantations.

As we drove along, it was explained to us that there were three active volcanoes, which belched smoke into the sky, and one had erupted a couple of years ago, covering towns in ash, and people could see red lava streams flowing down the volcano. Mudslides had claimed the lives of many people in recent years, and the city had had to move its position three times in recent years. In spite of this, the people are very friendly and welcoming ( on leaving, the tourist info rep said to me "I wait for your return"). At the dock, there were two tribal woman, weaving beautiful coloured cloth on a simple loom. It would take them about three months to weave a traditional blouse. The colours used signify which of the 20 or so tribes that woman belongs to, and so they wear their individual blouses with pride. The language is Spanish, but 60% use Mayan dialect. You got the feeling that this was still a developing country, embracing tourism and the change they hope that that would bring. But whilst so much wealth is in the hands of such a small minority, and there is such poverty and illiteracy, it's difficult to see how things can improve in general for the poor.

There was a discreet but high level of security around, with gun-carrying guards on commercial vehicles and around public buildings. (Ian saw such a guard on the back of a pepsi wagon). We'd previously seen guards at the little museum in Zihuantanejo, and it came as no surprise that the number one job for young men is to become a security guard!

Back to Antigua Guatemala, because of its UNESCO status and obligations, shops in the town are not allowed to adverise their wares, and without signage, the town takes on a much older and unspoilt appearance, with its strictly conforming colours of paint, most buildings are painted white, yellow, orange, or blue.

Church in Antigua Guatemela

The coffee plantation trip was fascinating, from an awareness of the plant upon which the jasmine-like flowers, and then the red berries of the coffee bean grow, to all the different processes of stripping off the various layers, to washing, drying and rosting the beans. I didn't like to ask if this was fair-trade coffee, but I suspect not. The women do the more manual work of harvesting the beans, and at the end of the process, packaging the coffee, but the men do the technical business of treating the coffee berry, raking and drying the bean etc

We lost another hour tonight, as we worked our way down the coast of Central America, 900 miles to Fuerte Amador, Panama. During the night we sailed past El Salvador, then the following day, past Honduras, and then past Costa Rica, later in the evening, and along the coast of Panama, making one day and two nights for the journey. Makes you realise how far it is! First windy and bumpy day at sea, but comfortable. In the meantime, Japan is hit by an earthquake of 8.9 and a tsunami kills at least 2000 people!!

Day at Sea

2011-03-11T13:10:00.001Z

Zihuatanejo to Puerto Quetzal- Guatemala

Awoke to another flat calm sea, with very humid, hot weather. There's been several people reporting ill with gastro-intestinal problems, and the response from the staff has been swift and intense, with all handrails and tables etc being wiped and disinfected throughout the day, a tightening up of hygiene standards in all restaurant areas. Some passengers, mainly American, have complined about having to form a line for service and having your hands sanitised every time you enter a dining area, but I think it's a small price to pay.

Its a hard life!

I went to my daily water-colour painting class and Ian his digital photography group.

After dinner, we sat and listened to a string quartet, four graduates from a London university, who were so pleased to have landed their first job together on the Queen Victoria, travelling around the Caribbean as well, before returning to UK in June.

We travel on through the night across the Gulf of Tehuantepec, where the coastline recedes further to the East. Sea depths here can exceed 6000m, and winds can gust down fron the Caribbean. Arrival in Puerto Quetzal Guatemala at 7am tomorrow, Thursday 10th March, only one week since we left LA, which makes me realise how far Panama is still!!

Zihuatanejo

2011-03-11T13:05:00.000Z

Zihuatanejo

Mexico! Zihuatanejo- still

Amazing distances. Overall we've covered approx 2000miles along the coast of Mexico, and are now at our third stop, the almost unpronouncable Zihuatanejo, only 5km from the popular resort of Ixtapa. Zihuatanejo has a real, traditional feel, with bars and restaurants along the shore, but cafes and cantinas used by the locals in the streets behind. It is far more approachable and relaxing than PV,and is set in a pretty bay, with expensive looking villas layered up on the wooded hillsides, with a long stretch of attractive beaches. Jenny Bond, who was also on the disastrous trip yesterday, was also ashore and looking much happier today! She's on board doing some entertaining talks on the Royal Family.

We discovered that things are shockingly cheap here- entrance to a little archeological museum and booklet was $1 each! it seems that prior to the Spanish Conquest, the local tribes, of which there were about 20, lived peaceful lives, fishing and hunting, and producing clay figurines, shell jewellery, and obsidian tools and flints. There are some great little exhibits in the museum.

The street vendors, and women and very small children, who come to your table with little toys for sale, had a mexican indian appearance- distinctive, and very short. Almost as soon as they can walk, the children help their mothers selling clay pots, necklaces and toys to the tourists who disembark from the big cruise-ships.

It's much warmer and more humid down here, now that we're in the Tropics.

Puerto Vallarta

2011-03-11T13:00:00.000Z

Puerto Vallarta- Mexico

Arrived 9am, having sped along at about 20knots, during the night. Much better known in UK as a resort city- purpose-built, characterless,sprawling. Much like Spanish costa resorts.

We were going on a trip today to Las Calletas "Hideaway"- swim in the turquoise sea in this hidden bay, owned by John Houston, the director, blah, blah...

To cut a long story short- a very poor trip which promised a lot and was poor value. Too cold to snorkel, so went kayaking and saw a dead kitten floating close to shore! All 90 odd of us sat cheek by jowl on a tiny beach, on decrepit deckchairs, set up at no more than 3feet apart!

Everyone stood in shock and then determined to put a brave face on it! We had to stay there for at least another four hours! Nothing for it but to hit the bar and the free margaritas! By my standards I'd lived the life of a nun so far- up early by 6.45 am, gym for an hour and a half, no alcohol at lunch-time and sensible in the evening, but extreme circumstances necessitated extreme remedies! Four margaritas later and on the way back from the "Hideaway" Idyll, and I was having a great time, laughing at all the staff doing their dancing and pre-tip hosting routine!

The queue at the excursions desk to give "feedback" was swelling like the Pacific, as we made our way out of PV at 6pm. Byebye PV!!

Las Calletas

Cabo San Lucas

2011-03-09T17:51:00.000Z

Cabo San Lucas

We dropped one of the 13 ton anchors in the bay of Cabo San Lucas, now about 900miles from LA. It was exciting to arrive there just as the sun was rising, and just as we were making our way to the gym. Normally I can’t shift out of bed at home until after 8, but here in US, everyone gets up quite early, and the gym is usually quite full by 7am.! So, an hour in the gym, pedalling and walking whilst gazing across at the imposing rocks and cliffs of the headland, with its famous archway and beautiful, pristine beaches. The town is still being developed so best to get there quick, before it becomes a sprawling mass of apartments. Our guide later told us that Bill Gates has a condo on the cliffs!

Cabo San Lucas is the southern tip of Baja California Sur, which confusingly is a state of Mexico. It is on the Tropic of Cancer, is very arid, average temp of 27 deg C. The hinterland appears very inhospitable and almost lunar. The tourist area is much like any other, and the town, which we did not visit has an array of designer shops. Why do such of the affluent people come here? Guaranteed winter sunshine, blue sky and sea, inexpensive lodgings, but most of all, the marine life. Apparently Jacques Cousteau named this area the “aquarium” of the world. There’s lots of sport fishing. You wake to sea lions calling near the cliffs. And best of all, pods of dolphins and whales can be easily seen particularly at this time of year. The whales travel here to give birth in the warm waters, and then once the calves have fattened up on the krill, and are strong enough, in a couple of weeks, they’ll travel up to Alaska. The biggest mammal migrates the longest distance- some 9000 miles- amazing.

Grey Whales

We learnt this and many other astonishing fact from our very informative guide, Tony, on a whale-watching trip, one of three that we’d pre-booked. Quite expensive, so we had to be careful about which we’d chose from the numerous ones on offer. It turned out to be well worth it- fantastically well-organised, very enlightening, and we got the most amazing views quite close up of several grey whales surfacing and flipping their tail fins in the air, just the way you’d hope they would. You can spot them early on, way off in the distance, with a jet of water spurting high into the air. As you get closer, you can hear them do this as well, and it’s awesome! You see the turquoise of the krill in the water, all around them ( the reason why they time their journey here is to coincide with the abundance of krill at this time of year). Another amazing fact- whales and dolphins are believed to have two hemispheres in the brain, and they shut one down, when they sleep, in order to rest it. However, because they have to breathe consciously, the other half reminds them to surface and breathe. So they constantly sink and surface to breathe, whilst resting their brains in sleep. Wonderful!

Cabo San Lucas

Anyway a very hot day today, with burning sun! I’ve been moaning about the weather being a bit poor, so I daren’t complain it’s too hot now. At 5pm. we raised the anchor and were back on our journey, southeastwards, down to Puerto Vallarta, another tourist hotspot, so we think.

Second Day at sea

2011-03-07T00:38:00.001Z

Weather beginning to look up and finally become warmer, after the coldest winter SoCal has known for some time.

We're on our way down to Baja California, about 600miles along the west coast. We'll arrive at Cabo San Lucas on the southern tip of Baja Cal, in Mexico. Just been to a lecture about Hernan Cortes conquest of Mexico in 1500s and his alliance with Montezuma of the Aztecs. A couple of hours in the sun, and then painting class, with water colours, with Ian going to a lesson in Digital photography and Photoshop. Been up since 6.45am, clocks going forward one hour, and then into the gym again early morning.

After another early session in the gym, we're off on a whale-watching excursion tomorrow am, so fingers crossed that we manage to see one.

Life aboard is great, but you do have to stay a bit focussed in order to benefit from the numerous activities on offer.

Sad Farewell

2011-03-07T00:35:00.000Z

Sad Farewell to New Family / All Aboard Queen Victoria

All too soon Andrew was back at work and normal life was resumed. Lizzy and Lily are getting stronger by the day. Lily's an adorable little "snuggler". She's sleeping a good 6 hours during the night, feeding at 4am ish and then back to sleep for another few hours until 8am. She's sooooo gorgeous. Three solid days of cuddling ahead, and then the added bonus of feeding Lily, whilst Ian took Lizzy on an errand into town. She's started quietly staring and studying your facial features, and then after some quiet contemplation, her little face breaks into a smile.

It's been wonderful spending time with all the family, Ian on the balcony talking to Andrew about running preparations for a 10k he's doing in a couple of weeks, and me sharing childhood memories of Andrew when he was a baby! As I cuddled Lily for the last time on this visit, I tried to imagine her with lots of teeth, pulling herself up with the furniture and starting to walk- when we return again in November. But then there's Skype, and The kids are great at keeping in touch, sending photos and videos.

After a brief call at CruiseAmerica depot in San Fernando, to check out campervans and prices, and then on to San Pedro fishing port, we took a taxi to the Port of Los Angeles. This port is huge with some 2000+ berths for commercial vessels. There she was - Queen Victoria- she seemed quite small really! The whole process of embarkation was as swift, efficient, and relaxing as we been led to expect. A marked contrast to the experience of flying. The cabin with balcony, mid-ships, was comfortable and well-kept by our housekeeper, Lynda, from Largs in Scotland, who would be on board until June. With newsheets each day listing daily events and dress-code for the evening, sometimes smart/casual, sometimes formal- a chance to wear all those fancy clothes I'd packed!

A gym, a library, buffet dining and formal dining, with lots of different areas to relax in, you don't feel overcrowded by the approx 900 other guests on board- 50% from USA and 50% from UK.

On our first night, ther was the ceremonial, and historic recognition of the Queen Mary, who is permanently berthed (like a floating hotel/conference centre) in the Port of LA. As we set out to sea, we passed close to her and exchanged horn sounds and the Queen Mary sent up several fireworks. It was quite moving, like an aging aunty exchanging a moment with her younger relative! After dinner, as the lights of San Diego dimmed into the distance, we were gently rocked to sleep with the Pacific swell, pushing us along, and we made our way along the West coast of California, at 15knots.

Exploring around LA

2011-02-27T16:21:00.000Z

Eagle Rock Topanga Park

In the last few days, we've interspersed spending time with the family with exploring places on the door-step, which we've overlooked on previous visits. We've cycled in the hills above Topanga Canyon, with far-reaching, unspoilt views over the mountains in the distance, and the near Santa Monica hills. This is mountain bike country, with technically challenging routes, if you decide to go adventuring off the wider easier routes which snake all over the hillsides. We cycled on the Temescal Trail to The Hub and back to Eagle Rock. Very beautiful and very quiet. To get to it you have to drive through Topanga to Tippetts Ranch, one of several access points. Tippetts Ranch is like being back in the UK, green, rolling pastureland. The Ranger sold us a map of the trails and said that the scenery was very green at this time of year, and there would be a guided walk to discover native flora and fauna, on Sunday pm. I'm coming back for that.

Downtown LA from Observatory

Topanga has a bohemian, fading hippy community feel to it- houses in the canyon range from wooden shacks, caravans to impressive country homes with front porches. It was famous for being the place where Neil Young, The Byrds, Jim Morrison and Emmy Lou Harris used to hang out and jam together. Less happily, it was also the site of one of the brutal murders of the serial killer, Charles Manson.

When the weather deteriorated again, we went on separate trips to Balboa Park, Ian cycling around the 3 mile perimeter in laps, and me having a go at jogging around the shorter inner route, managing 3x 1mile laps. With heavy showers forecast the following day, we decided to reccy Griffith Park, out towards Hollywood. We set off early on Saturday, with fairly quiet freeways, but coming back, the traffic into Hollywood was backed up- 7 lane freeway at a standstill. You've really got to time your local trips carefully, and rush hour can be two to three hours long. Driving here is n't much fun. It's much better away from LA, in the wide open spaces.

Griffith Park would be a great place to visit with Lily, when she's about 4! The most remarkable thing about it is the location of this mountainous park, full of walking trails, with a 20mile cycle path around its perimeter, slap bang in the city of LA. There is a splendid observatory at the peak, with astounding views of the city skyscrapers and grid network of streets, and a close-up of the famous HOLLYWOOD sign.

Best angle apparently!

Inside the marble-halled observatory, there are informative displays about the planets, sun,stars and seasons. There is an impressive brass pendulum,designed by the Frenchman, Foucault, to demonstrate the movement of the Earth on its axis. As the Earth moves, during the course of several hours, the pendulum swings and knocks down pegs on a fixed board. We also watched a fun presentation in the planetarium, where you lay back on a comfy chair, staring up at the "sky" in a dark circular space, whilst constellations and planets moved into view and were discussed. (It is thought that icy comets flying through Space from distant galaxies, getting closer to the Sun, "evaporate" and when they collided with Earth, could have contributed to it becoming a watery planet). Another fact which surprised us was that a chart lighting up the chemical elements of stars, humans etc, showed that we shared the elements of stars, with a few extra, so that when "first nations", as Ray Mears refers to them, look up at the stars and believed that their ancestors were there, they were absolutely right.

Then a short trip to the Museum. Apart from from some vaguely interesting landscape paintings, there is an excellent display of native american crafts and basket-work.

Looking across to San Gabriel Mountains

What about Lily?!

She is beautiful. In the brief period we've been here, we've noticed her getting stronger, lifting her little head off your shoulder, wriggling about and then suddenly stopping to take in all your facial expressions and beginning to SMILE! A gorgeous little dimply smile, where her face lights up. It's like her gift to you- she doesn't have to do it, but she wants to! Lizzy says she's already knocking out one of her night-feeds, so they're getting a bit more sleep.

Meeting the "new addition" to the family!

2011-02-24T15:51:00.000Z

We've been in the USA for nearly a week now, so it's high time I put font to blog!

After booking in at our extended stay hotel room,approx 10 minutes away from Andrew and Lizzy's Balboa appartment, we drove down to see our kids, and grandaughter, Lily, for the first time. She's absolutely delightful and beautiful, and new mum and dad are doing well also. Lizzy's mum was staying with them for a few more days, so we had a chance to catch up with her, before she went back to Saudi.

Over the next few days we tried to get the balance between cuddling Lily, helping in practical ways, and giving Andrew and Lizzy some much-needed space. Andrew was to be off work for two weeks, so there'd be plenty of time to catch up. In between helping with the cooking and cleaning, popping in at Fresh and Easy- US equivalent of Tescos, we've explored some of the cycle trails in the Santa Monica Hills- the West Ridge and, much more hilly and challenging, Sullivan Ridge- 18+ miles of mountain-biking trails.

As a family, we've been for a meal for Kriess' birthday, at Claim Jumpers, and met more great friends, Casey and Janine, Will, and Reuben, and ate "red velvet cake" with amazing frosting. We've had a lovely Spring walk in nearby Balboa Park, with landscaped gardens, cherry trees, pale pink and full of flower, man-made lake and waterfall. There's a cycle ride all away around the outside of 3 miles and a running and walking track, where Andrew and friends meet for a run most Sundays. We've also been for a walk with Lizzy and Lily, whilst Andrew ran on the West Ridge, looking down to Mulholland Drive and the splendid houses and swimming pools.

Today we've all been down to the seaside, to Santa Monica pier, and eaten at my favourite fish and chippy- Bubba Gumps. Lily excelled herself with letting her mummy eat something. She's an incredibly content, sleepy, calm baby. But she's only four weeks old and there's lots of time yet!

The appartment's OK but expensive for what it offers, but it does have a kitchen, with a very sensitive smoke alarm, which I set off when I made lasagne- so I won't be doing a massive fry-up. Guess I'll be doing what most people do around here- buying take-aways, or microwaving ready-cooked meals! We've taken turns at making meals, with Andrew making some amazing BBQs. The third night we had to ask to move to the top floor rooms, because we'd been awake most of the night, with what turned out to be a large family dog trotting up and down from about 2am to 6am! Anyway we're fine now and catching up on some sleep, but have found it's taken us about 3 days to fully come around from the jet lag.

The weather's been mixed, with heavy rain for two days after we arrived. The last couple of days have been much brighter and warmer, but the forecast isn't great for the weekend. But it's not really very important, at this stage, as we've come to spend time with the new family.

Just to finish, both of us are deighted with the new addition to the Webster clan. Lily is gorgeous, and the new parents are so proud. Andrew is a hands-on dad, changing nappies, burping, and bathing Lily in between playing his computer games! Lizzy is an adoring mum, very loving and calm, taking it all in her stride.

Snow in November

2010-12-04T13:37:00.000Z

On Patio

It started snowing on Ian's birthday, and has been at it ever since! In one night it snowed 17"!!!
We haven't been able to use the car for five days now. Thank goodness htat we have a cracking local Spar shop, which has been doing a roaring trade.
Today the temperature climbed into positive values- 1.5 deg C, and we decided to make a bid for freedom, and so did everybody else. The major roads are pretty clear and gritted, but the minor linking roads are practically impassable. Today a tractor, fitted with a snow plough came and dug out the snow on our road, which was 3' deep in places!
We managed to get the car back up the drive, after our journey to the shops, although we did have to scrape the ice and snow away in places on the hilly access road. Pre-Xmas "dos" have come and gone, no calls for supply work in school, as the schools are shut, so it's all a bit quiet. Hopefully we'll be able to get family together for Xmas.

Baslow Edge

In the meantime, we've had plenty of beautiful, wintry walks in the snow, and taken lots of lovely photos

Looking up towards the house on Eaton Drive

Living Desert, Palm Springs

2010-11-21T21:02:00.000Z

Occitillo

Just a few more blogs before I sign out for 2011!
Our last day in Palm Springs, and we planned to visit The Living Desert, which we called in on last visit. It's a gem of a place, with coyotes, big horn sheep (who get a proper mountain in their enclosure), Mountain Lion, a Mexican wolf, peccaries, golden eagle, roadrunners and various other. But the real stars are the several fantastically laid-out landscapes, devoted to different areas and plants. Trees and palnts from Baja California, Mojave Desert, Sonaran Desert, Chihuahua,and the Colorado Plateau. All teeming with plants, birds and insects, with extremely helpful info about the qualities of the plant/tree and the uses the Native Amreican Indians put them to. There was a special eco-botanical area dedicated to the Native Indians, with a number of "kish"/ dwelling places, built mainly using the Palm leaves, and a thriving garden, growing various types of beans, climbing up corn, with squashes grown for ground cover- "the three sisters" cos they're always grown together. You can learn such a lot from this feature park, and it helps you to see the "barren, wasteland" desert in a more appreciative light. The desert is a larder, full of plants of medicinal and nutritional value.
Back to the room, and Slipknot/ AC-DC are blaring out at 1pm, around the pool- Americans' idea of relaxation! I assumed "grumpy old woman" mode and pottered off to complain! Time to go, I think. (The couple in the room next door had got themselves all over-excited and went from hysterical giggling to a domestic at 2am! and once they'd quietened down, the couple upstairs were testing out the bed-springs for the next 10mins (at least, it was only 10mins!!!)
Looking forward to seeing the kids and "bump" tomorrow, after a mere 150mls to LA!

Baby Shower

2010-11-21T20:53:00.001Z

Baby Shower Bibs

Yep! The only wet thing to happen since we arrived- The Baby Shower. With all Andrew's workmates being male, this was always going to be difficult. But Lizzy and friend, Alex/Lexy, the food was fantastic, and entertainment, imaginative. They'd bought lots of inexpensive little baby vests, and fabric pens. There was a competition for the best designed and drawn baby vest. There were some incredible results. Their friends were very supportive and generous, and Lizzy had a number of gifts and clothes to put in the nursery.

The following day, Ian and I went off to Babys R Us and bought a "stroller" from Gran, and "crib" from us, which we set up with Lizzy. It's seems hard to believe that our little grand-daughter, all 18" of her, would be sleeping in this massive crib, which converts to a full-sized single bed.

The Stroller

Anyway, we left Lizzy resting back at the flat, went off to Santa Monica to the beach, had a brief swim in a very cold sea, lunch at Bubba Gumps, which was great, and then back into all the traffic leaving LA. So different to the last week, we were stuck in traffic, on a six lane highway- madness!

Gran's Woollen Jacket

We called in at the long-stay travel-lodge and booked our accommodation for two weeks next Feb, when the baby's due, then a hug goodbye and off to Venice Beach for a stroll and quesadilla, before dropping the car off and catching a shuttle to the airport. We got talking over a beer, with a couple from Saskachewan, Canada, who were on their way to New Zealand. Calgary's only a three hour flight.... mm! Canada's not far away is it. They told us about their lifestyle, hunting elk, moose and deer, and her husband was clearly finding it difficult, leaving Saskachewan in the height of the hunting season!

Through Four States to Palm Springs

2010-11-13T15:42:00.000Z

Palm Canyon Palm Springs

A curious thing, there are four states and they're really close together in this area. On the 400mile drive from St George, Utah, we passed through the canyons of Utah, and deserts of Arizona, through Las Vegas in Nevada to arrive six hours later in Palm Springs, California. Now I'm not very happy with the laws in SoCal. Having been desperate for some fresh fruit, with no added sugar, salt or seasoning, Ian bought me some satsumas, which I was working my way through nicely, with at least 30 more to go. Anyway, we were pulled up on some random agricultural check on Highway 15, and the beggars confiscated my satsumas, and left me with some poxy, tasteless golden delicious apples. They didn't search the car for all the satsuma peel, which was mounting up on the backseat. I think they just fancied some fruity snacks. The irony is that the satsumas were from 2 miles down the road from Andrew at Sherman Oaks, in South California, so I'm not sure what all the fuss was about,.....and, he took my number plate. I should have asked for his details, but didn't fancy waiting around whilst he went over our contents with a fine tooth-comb.
Anyway, not pleased!! I'd been so looking forward to the rest of those satsumas!!!
And another thing, US driving stinks!!! You've got to get used to the fact that they overtake you on either side, insude and far-side, and it's all perfectly legal, if unnerving. However they do have this good system in LA, of a lane on the 6 lane highway, at rush hour, or at any time, designated to car sharers. If there's more than one of you in the car, you can use the much less congested car pool lane. That is good.
We were to spend the next three nights in Palm Springs.

Jack Rabbit

Early the following morning we set off up the road to Indian Canyon, with its largest number of Californian Fan Palms in California. All around dry, arid desert, with creosote bushes, cacti etc, and then this amazing canyon some five miles long with shady clumps of tall Californian Palms and running water, even at this particularly dry time of year. The Cahuilla Indian Reserve covers the whole of this area and there were several Indian Park Rangers on duty. It's easy to understand why they considered this to be a sacred place. It must have been such a haven of tranquillity in this cool oasis, after spending all day in the heat of the desert.
We walked along one of the numerous trails for about three hours and then headed back to the hotel.
Back to the Strip in the evening for a Mexican meal and bed by 9.30pm. It's dark now by about 5pm, since daylight saving came in. Forecast for the coming week- sunny every day, with temperatures in the 80sF, and cool at night- in fact, quite chilly tonight.

Bryce to Zion National Park

2010-11-11T13:34:00.000Z

Another bitterly cold start- minus 5 deg F, with wind chill, feeling more like minus 10! Could n't wait to get back into the weird wonderland of Bryce Canyon once more , before the short drive into Zion Park. Bitterly cold but blue sky. We parked up with the intention of walking another of the several trails, and set off from Bryce Point but after about a hour, we decided to turn around, as the next section of the trail was again in shadow and the wind was ripping through. We opted for the sunnier and more sheltered Queens Garden trail, which we'd already done the day before, but was so attractive and packed with amazing sights, that it could stand to be repeated. Again more beautiful photos but this time with blue sky, rather than the snowy greyness of yesterday.
With more snow forecast here for the afternoon, we headed south and down to a warmer elevation. Our ultimate destination, St George is at 3000', rather than over 8000'. A short, two hire drive took us to Zion National Park, about 80 miles away. This is a deep narrow canyon, with curiously named towering cliffs, beloved of climbers, and there were three of them toiling up a precipice. In the base of this canyon, and this is what makes it so attractive, is the meandering Virgin River, which gushes and flows through, creating an oasis for aspens, maples and cottonwood trees. At this time of year, the canyon is a blaze of autumnal colour, vibrant yellow aspens and deep red maples.

In the Spring, there are waterfalls tumbling down the cliffs, and filling pools. Even though it was so out of season, and a chilly day, it was much busier than Bryce and the Grand Canyon, and you feel it more because there's only one easily accessible trail, the Riverside Trail. I would not want to do this at a busy time, but today it wasn't too busy. Only drawback was the limited number of trails, the majority necessitating a hair-raising, steep climb up the cliffs, to what I'm sure must be impressive views, but after what we'd seen on our travels, I didn't feel a burning desire to do a steep climb up, followed by a worse, steep climb down. But, in spite of that restriction, we were still very pleased to have seen Zion in all its autumnal glory.
With more bad, snowy weather forecast for the next few days, we felt we'd been lucky to visit Bryce Canyon so late in the season, and glad to be heading somewhere warmer. So two nights at the Holiday Inn Express, St George. After the comparative isolation of the last few days, St George seemed buzzing and vibrant. Lonely Planet describes this area as being as dull as dich-water, but we felt that was a bit unfair. People are polite and very friendly.

The day after we set off for Snowy Canyon State Park, which was on the door-step, and mentioned as a little gem by LP guide. A much lesser known, and understated park, with a fee of only $5, but it turned out to be a great place to wander and experience desert walking, with very few visitors, apart from guys in RVs parked up, overnight nearby. Again a number of well-marked trails through varied terrain. We went on the Hidden Pinyon Tree trail, recommended by LP, and it didn't disappoint. The trail weaves through and over tight passage ways and boulders, opening up into views of the "snowy" white limestone mountain in the distance, petrified sand-dunes, red cliffs topped with "black varnish", and lava outcrops. All along the trail are up to 20 markers, describing the plants and features that you come across, one of the most curious being the "creosote bush", which is older than the giant redwoods, and have many medicinal and household uses for the Native Indians. I rubbed it beween my fingers, which then had a distinct smell of TCP! Amazing plants- don't appear too showy and colourful, but had so many uses for those "in the know". I love these little information sheets! These State Parks are just wonderful, and the Americans look after them so well.

Lunch at another Cracker Barrel (which we'd googled-how sad are we!) and then, believe it or not, Ian went shopping with me. New Balance trainers for $45 and a couple of things from Ralph Lauren outlet, at a great price. Ate at a Red Lobster that night. Everyone we saw drinks water or soft drinks. The stranger sight is guys propping the bar, drinking coke! We were the only ones having a beer, which can be really expensive, but it seems that the drink-driving laws are strictly enforced and offenders will be"prosecuted aggressively".
So "I'll have an Iced Tea, please"!

240 miles to Bryce Canyon

2010-11-10T14:06:00.000Z

Just a mention before we set off for Bryce Canyon. Kayenta, where we spent the night, is on Navajo Land, which means that signs in shops are in their own language, and the occupants are nearly all of Navajo origin. Apparently the Navajo Nation is the largest of all reservations, attributed to the fact that they are skilled at adapting and assimilating. Their territory extends over 17million acres across NE Arizona, NW New Mexico, and S Utah and between a quarter nd a half are Christian - so that explains the Christian churches. After you've spent a few days driving around their lands, you get the impression that it could only be the Navajo who could manage to live in such hostile, desert environment. There is a striking difference between the poorer Native communities and the more comfortable, affluent American towns and villages nearby.
Another point of interest- we called in to read a display about the role that the Navajo Codetalkers played in the war with Japan in WW2. The weird thing was that the display was adverised as being in the Burger King! It seemed that the Navajo language is so complex that it was indecipherable and so the Americans were able to communicate, without fear of comprehension by the Japanese. Such a commendable skill praised in such a mundane setting. Maybe the thinking was that plenty of native people would see this information here and feel pride in their history.
Anyway, onward!
On the way to Kanab we almost ran into a Roadrunner bird, of Tom and Jerry fame! Beep, beep! Unfortunately moving too fast to get a photo. A flightless bird, it's able to run at amazing speed, its legs a blurr, managing to successfully cross a highway! So chuffed to have seen it.
We continued gradually climbing past Red Canyon, on to a high level, narrow plain with cows and horses and a few ranches. up and up and we finally arrived at Bryce City, altitude 8000'+. There's hardly anything here, and what is seems to be owned by Ruby's, who established a hotel and staging post here in 1820s. There's two Best Westerns on the site, a petrol station, gift shop, restaurant and a few houses and that's about it- the City! Remarkably, we'd covered nearly 300mls by about 1pm, with just enough time for a sneak preview of the Canyon. With the temperature dropping to just above freezing, we set off on the Queens Garden Trail, having paid our $25 park entry fee.
WOW!....WOW!
This place is so WIERD!!!

Thousands of rocky "hoodoos", caused by erosion, rising up from the canyon floor, as far as the eye can see. Looking like something out of Gaudi's imagination, like melting wax, like toy soldiers, like a cathedral, like ....nothing on Earth. With snow flakes starting to fall, we weaved our way along the intricate, cleverly arranged paths which drop you down among the hoodoos. Absolutely stunning, and culminating in a glimpse of a hoodoo named after our Queen Victoria, and it's pretty accurate.
With deteriorating weather we drove back to our stop at the Best Western Grand, opposite Ruby's. The Lonely Planet guide is disparaging about the city and its food reputation, but we couldn't fault it. Great hearty buffet and reasonable prices.

Arizona-Utah-Arizona

2010-11-08T02:58:00.000Z

Another cold and frosty morning as we set off at 7am. for Monument Valley, in Utah state. People seem to get up very early around here, but then things are pretty quiet by 10pm. 200miles down the Navajo Trail Highway, and about 4hours later, we arrived at Kayenta, about 30miles away from Monument Valley. After featureless, vast sand and desert, there were signs of the wonders to come- rocky, spikey outcrops springing up out of the flat plains. $5 each allowed us into this sacred site of the Navajo. The Navajo-owned hotel The View blended into the landscape, and we could drive along a dirt track through this amazing landscape. Vivid blue sky, red earth, and massive rocky sculptures rising dramatically out of the desert. We drove along the very rough track to John Ford Lookout, where we turned around and enjoyed the whole thing again but from a different perspective.
We returned to the Holiday Inn, Kayenta, an unpretentious hotel in this bit if a backwater. Admittedly it was Sunday, but the area had a distinct end-of-season feel. As with the Grand Canyon, it was quiet here also, perfect for us, but many places do seem to shut down in October. Kayenta is distinctly Navajo, and all the people in the shops and cafes have similar Navajo characteristics- round, moon faces. Babies in papooses, just as you'd imagine they've been carried years ago. The other interesting fact- great evening meal of fajitas with water- yes, water- it is illegal to sell alcohol on Navajo tribal lands, so water with your meals or non-alcoholic beer!

Although we'd booked in for 2 nights we decided to stay only one night- because we'd seen all there was to see here in one day! and because we had a very long day of 300miles drive tomorrow to Bryce Canyon, where we decided to spend the night instead to give us the best chance of exploring the area the day after.

Walking into the Canyon

2010-11-07T23:56:00.000Z

Forgot to mention yesterday- we called into a Cracker Barrel for breakfast- couldn't face the long wait at the Holiday Inn, with under-staffed and over-stressed service. Great move- the breakfast was amazing. I'm not a breakfast person, and struggle with the over-sized, over-flavoured, over-sweetened food in the USA, but these breakfasts are astounding. With a choice of healthy right through to artery-damaging indulgence of ribs and grits! Opted for middle-of-the-road- buttermilk pancakes with maple syrup, two perfectly-poached eggs and turkey meat patties- fantastic. It's got a old homestead style all of its own, with rockingchairs lined up for sale, on the porch, and all timber and cosy-cabin inside. The waiters and waitresses look like they've walked straight off the set of "the Waltons"- America at what it does best! I had to make sure I made a reference to it!

Anyway, as for today, off on a hike into the Canyon, but not until we scraped the ice off the car, on a freezing cold morning. Keep forgetting we're at over 6000'. It reaches a very pleasant 70deg F during the day, at present, dropping to below freezing at night. In the evening you need a warm jacket, unlike in Las Vegas and LA where it's still warm enough at night to walk around in a short-sleeved top.

We drove to the Visitors Centre, which is only 15 minutes away from our base at Tusayan, ideally close to the Park. From there, we caught a green route shuttle bus to the Kaibab Trail Head. Still chilly, we began the breath-taking descent down into the Canyon. Breath-taking because of the views, not because of the route itself, which was a wide, easy walk, zig-zagging down at a pleasant gradient. An old mule trail and still currently used to transport visitors up and down. After a long descent through the various strata, with fabulous views, as the sun lit up the canyon, we reached the ridge route, which would take us on to Skeleton Pt. Stopping to gaze deep down to a glimpse of the Colorado River, you are overwhelmed with the scale of what you see. Distances are deceiving. Continuing along the ridge, we reach Tip Off, at about 4 1/2 mils on the trail and decision point. We'd descended about 3000'. The advice is that you don't attempt to descend all the way to the bottom and back in a day, as it's likely to take about 13 hours, to say nothing about how strenuous that would be. Later we would be able to glimpse the wooded campground, and other overnight accommodation down by the river, at least another 1500' down. We could go back the way we came, or do something a bit more interesting. We opted for the latter. We'd got quite a bit of water left and a couple of Snickers, as we headed off on a traverse of the Tonto Trail, heading west. The Tonto trail also goes on for miles and miles in an easterly direction. In Spanish, "tonto" means "stupid".....Anyway, starting to a bit tired now and crossing the head of yet another ravine in the plateau. Fortunately it wasn't too hot today, but I can imagine you have to be very careful walking in this forbidding place. You do get a feel for the vastness of this area, when you embark upon one of the numerous trails into the canyon, rather than sticking to the Rim Trail. Another 4-5 miles later and we'd finally reached Indian Garden, having spent two hours crossing from one trail to another! Indian Garden is in an oasis of green and yellow trees and reeds, with babbling water, and a timely supply of fresh tap-water. There's a campground here too, but don't think that the canyon is full of facilities, because it certainly isn't. Water is very scarce, and even fit athletes have died from being under-prepared and over-ambitious! A couple of years ago two women, one of whom had completed the Boston Marathon in 3hours, got into trouble in 100deg heat, having taken very little water on a long hike. One ran on to try and get help, whilst the other waited until dusk, and the temperature dropped. The woman who tried to get help died of heat exhaustion, whilst her friend survived. A sobering thought, as we began the ascent back up Bright Angel Trail. Today was cool and in fact the last two hours are in shade. The trail weaves across buttresses, and disappears around bends, so you look up and can't see where the path leads. All you can see is a succession of impenetrable rock cliffs, with no way up. But there is a path which leads on through a narrow gorge, as you climb up and up. You know you've nearly reached the top, as more and more day-trippers come towards you, with smarter clothes, having the curiosity to walk down the first 200' and then realising the scale of the task ahead of them, turn around and head for car or bus! After just over 7hours walking, we look down at where we've been. You look back down to Indian Garden and it doesn't really seem so far away, but when we look on the map, we see we've walked about 15miles, and it was a great route. But hard!

East to Arizona

2010-11-06T13:44:00.000Z

Andrew and Lizzy went back to North Hills and we set off east to Arizona, to the Grand Canyon. We set off at 7am and arrived at the Grand Canyon National Park at about 1pm. The incredibly straight road rises through impressive desert landscape, through high level scrub and pine, rising to about 6000’ at Tusayan, just outside the park, where we were staying at the Holiday Inn Express.

We left the car at Mather Point for our first glimpse of this epic spectacle. It’s overwhelming and leaves you emotional and speechless. A gaping great scar eroded in the earth, about 10mls wide and 270 miles long and one mile deep. AWESOME. Different rock layers laid bare, pink and grey.

With a few hours left before it went dark at 5.30pm, we decided to do a gentle walk from Bright Angel Lodge along the Rim walk to Hopi point. There are several clear paths, graded according to terrain, distance and height climbed, clearly described in the Visitors Centre. The views from the rim walk are astounding, and can be accessed on foot, by bike, by wheelchair, by shuttle bus, by helicopter and by the Colorado River! The best thing about these national parks is that you are not able to approach by car and all the tourist tat is left at the shops outside the park. Everything inside is unspoilt and natural. Brilliant! After about a hundred photos taken into the canyon, it was time to head back. A steak and a beer at the steakhouse across the road and then back to do the blog. It couldn’t be more different here than last night in Las Vegas. Tonight’s “strip” had a Texaco garage, a couple of food marts, a few motels, Wendys, a Mexican, a Pizza place and that was it!!! Also average daytime temp 70 deg rather than 80deg, and plunging at night to a cool 55deg. But then we are 6000’ up!! Back to bed for 8.30pm and planning to get off early for a walk into the canyon on the South Kaibab trail to Skeleton Pt. tomorrow. Great names like Brahma Point, Vishnu Point and Wotan Plateau….

Daytime Las Vegas

2010-11-05T03:30:00.000Z

So glad we saw the Strip all lit up at night, but today we toured in warm, then later hot sunshine. Awake at 6.30am and writing the blog, breakfast with Andrew and Lizzy and then off to the Strip, whilst it was still cool. We walked along down to Paris, with its amazing replica of the Eiffel Tower, then on to New York -New York, with its Statue of Liberty, and MGM. Inside MGM were literally thousands of slot machines, millions if you multiply by the number of facades on the Strip. We succumbed and put in $2, that's 50cents each, winning first time a total of $16 for the "baby fund"! The lovely BMW car, that Lizzy was hoping for, was not to be ours today! However, the Rough Guide quotes that the average person loses $635, so we had to be satisfied with our winnings and 800% return and move on.
We walked back towards the Belagio Hotel and went into the casino to the celebrated buffet, which exceeded expectations. Lovely antipasti, sushi, fresh shell fish, cooked meats and fish, fresh vegetables and fruit and delicious puds- all for $22 each, which we thought great value. Nice surroundings and attentive service. Trouble was the wine and beers were a bit steep. but would definitely go again. Lizzy agreed that although all the gambling part is a bit gross, there's plenty of other stuff to see, and I'd definitely come back here for a show- currently playing The Jersey Boys, about the rise to fame of Frankie Valli and The Four Seasons, and also would like to see Cirque du Soleil show another time.
A really hot walk back and a siesta!

Right next to our base was a BahamaBreeze, one of a small chain, and we decided to opt for this as it was easier than getting shuttle into town and roaming the streets again, It proved to be an excellent choice and much better than last night. We opted for appetisers, rather than main meals, which were still big portions, and plenty for all, washed down with mojitos and Sam Adams beer, with Lizzy, in stirling fashion, sticking to non-achoholic cocktails! Great night and back to bed by 8.30pm, (Laura would be proud of us! The time she came here on Mark's stag party, she didn't sleep much at all)

Arrival at LA and on to Viva Las Vegas!

2010-11-04T14:36:00.000Z

After a short delay and a long flight of just short of eleven hours, we arrived in LA. We remembered the short trip to North Hills really well and arrived at Andrew's without a hitch. Inermediate car hired from Alamo, a Ford Focus. Good service. Ian's Tom Tom worked a treat.
Andrew (or should I say, Frank Zappa's baby brother!) and Lizzy both looked well, especially Lizzy with her larger than expected tummy! It was great to see them both, after nearly nine months apart. Andrew had shaved his hair for Halloween, and it did give me a fright! Fortunately, it was not going to be a permanent style, and was starting to grow back.
After just one night, we all set off for Las Vegas, in seperate hire cars. Six hours stree-free driving and we arrived in a tardis in the middle of the desert. It doesn't look so big on approach, but as we wandered around later that evening, it was massive on the inside.
Anyway, to the hotel first, the Holiday Inn on Flamingo and Paradise Rd. Lovely rooms with swimming pool, unheated at this time of year, and a bit chilly, as we later found out!
A brief swim and rest in the hot, hot sunshine, with temperature of 84 deg F, and then into town. There was an excellent shuttle, because it's a bit too far to walk, We were dropped off at The Venetian, with its impressive foyer, and painted ceilings. We spent some time in there, wandering around "St Marks Square", with actors singing "Nessun Dorma", gazing over the Canals, with actors singing "Just one Cornetto!" and ornate italian frescoes and statues. The whole canal complex is upstairs! Weird.

We ate at Gilleys at Treasure Island, which was basic and expensive fayre $30 each, and not that good. Then a fairly pacy walk to find The Bellagio, past the massive Caesars Palace, the Trevi Fountain and Colliseum! We were inside the Bellagio, when the water display was happening, but said we'd go back tomorrow, and visit that end of the Strip. The Strip looked brilliant, all lit up at night, and there's plenty to see and do, without even having to set foot in the gambling areas, which are all a bit overfacing and give you a desire to shout out in an evangelical voice "The End is Nigh!"
We rang for the shuttle back to the hotel, and then experienced "the magic carpet" of Las Vegas. It was too easy to go with the flow, and we ended up being transported back into the shopping area of The Venetian. We had to make a conscious effort to work our way towards the front of the building to the pick-up spot. Everything is designed to get you in, and you have to work it out for yourself, how you get out! Sneaky huh!

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 13

2010-10-31T14:47:00.000Z

Grosmont Steam Railway

Day 13- Sept 13 OUR LAST DAY

Glaisdale to Robin Hood’s Bay 19mls. 1640’ascent

Weather- cloudy am. Becoming wet and windy!

What a shame it’s likely to be wet today- our first, and last, wet day on the walk. I can’t believe how lucky we have been, and how different the walk could have been.

AW loved the variety of the last leg of the walk, and it certainly lived up to its description.

Our first stop- a brief look at Beggars Bridge, an old, picturesque 17th century bridge. Then a lovely walk through Arncliffe Woods, along the riverbank, and on to Grosmont and Grosmont Station. We were lucky enough to arrive just as a lovely old steam train was waiting at the platform. To the sound of its horn and the deep chugging sound as it pulled away, we began the very steep climb up, 1 in 3. Phew! On to open moor again- Sleights Moor, and a deterioration in the weather had us struggling in the wind to don overtrousers. Across the A169 Pickering road and over the moor, with views of Whitby Abbey in the mist, far off in the distance, and south to the “golf balls” of Fylingdales Early Warning System. Dropping down into the beautiful little village of Little Beck,we were on a woodland trail, later joining the falling Foss forest trail at The Hermitage, carved out of the rock in 1790, you can sit inside to shelter from the weather. On towards the Falling Foss waterfall- spectacular and the Falling Foss Tearooms- even more spectacular!!! My lunch consisted of two cakes and a great pot of tea, sheltering in the lovely tea-room gardens, under large garden umbrellas. Up over Sneaton moor, AW cruelly sends you North to the village of Hawsker, about 3miles out of your way. You appreciate why, later, when he has you doing a “lap of honour” around Ness Point, before arriving in RHB. But at the time, after such a long walk, it’s hard to think positively about such a detour! The only blot on an otherwise astonishingly beautifully scenic day, is the trail through Northcliffe caravan park, which seems to go on forever. But it doesn’t and before long you’re on the coastal path, up to your knees in mud, but exhilarated to be so close to the finish. With RHB in sight, a sense of achievement starts to creep in!

Throwing pebble into North Sea

Tired and filthy, we arrived at Wainwrights Bar in the quaint little village of Robin Hood’s bay. A romantic place in itself, but even more so for Ian and I, because we spent a weekend here when we both students, over 30 years ago! Ian had met us on the coast path, in fact he’d planned to meet us coming through Hawsker, but missed us, whilst taking shelter in the pub!!!

We threw our pebbles from the West coast into the sea on the East coast, and had photos taken etc. There’s a plaque on the outside wall of the pub, saying “The End- Coast to Coast 190miles” and it’s hard to believe we’ve done it, but we have.

A couple of pints of beer in the pub. Fish and Chips from the chippy. A long drive back almost to the start to drop Col off in Lancashire!!

Robins Hood Bay - Wainwrights Bar

Four weeks ago now. Knees finally settling down, but had been swollen for several days afterwards. Two black toe-nails. Need to wean myself off beer and pie, chips and peas!

I’d definitely do it again- Would do the high level route in the Lakes, if the weather was conducive- wouldn’t recommend it if it weren’t. But planning on an alternative to the trudge around Ennerdale Water, opting for the route of the Ennerdale

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 12

2010-10-31T14:38:00.000Z

North Yorks Moors

Day 12 Sept 12 Clay Bank Top – Glaisdale 19mls 984’ascent

Weather again bright and sunny, but a cold breeze

As the figures suggest, a long but reasonably flat walk ahead today. Sitting in Judy and Stuart’s comfortable kitchen, enjoying a delicious cooked breakfast, talking about dogs and horses, and anything else, just to relax in their cosy house, it was very difficult to get going today!!!

But ahead a day of reliving the moment of 30odd years ago, when I ran the next section, as part of the Clayton-le-Moors Ladies bid for coast to coast run inside 24hours, which we achieved easily, thanks to Vanessa Brindle, Wendy Dodds, Karen Taylor and the like- all superb fell-runners. I ran my section with Ian in , and would expect to take significantly longer today.

After a brief climb up from Chop Gate, where Stuart deposited us, the only climb of the day almost, we pushed on over Urra Moor. Then we steamed along the disused Rosedale Ironstone railway line, with fast walking across the North Yorkshire moors. From High Blakey moor, we could see the Lion Inn at Blakey, the only building for miles.

We stopped there for some soup, and as I went inside, it was really impressive. Although only lunch-time, there were candles on all the tables, with the rambling dining area, spread out over three rooms. Very welcoming staff, and after I’d glimpsed the massive table full of various desserts, I was wishing that, like the Bamford Builders, we were staying here for the night.

But no such luck, we were bound for Glaisdale. After a break, in which we were caught up by the Calver mother and daughter, Danish and Martin, we were off on the flat again. This happened a lot- your never on your own for long, and are constantly joined by the same groups of people at lunch and break stops.

A brief stop at “Fat Betty” stone, to make an offering of chocolate, and pick up someone else’s trail bar, round Great Fryupdale and over Glaisdale Moor and then down into Glaisdale. Well, actually, we were staying at a farm for B&B- Hart Hall dairy farm, run by a lovely couple, Elaine and Dave. They politely requested that you waited until after 7am to have a shower, as it affected the electricity supply to the milking parlour. A very busy couple, raising a dairy herd, milking twice a day, caring for calves born during the night, running a B&B, and raising a family! Colin gallantly accepted the Harry Potter-sized bedroom under the stairs, because Australian John had taken his room upstairs. He’d had a much shorter walk today and, having arrived early, had bagged one of the two rooms upstairs! He’d been a pain on the first morning, having bagged the shower for his personal en-suite, and kept us waiting to use the loo! Ah well!

Just a note about the pub in the village- don’t bother going- food was great but some younger locals need to get out more! What passed for entertainment seemed to be a woman with a freakishly long tongue, who stuck it out suggestively, at any given opportunity to shock and amuse, I suppose, whilst her mates farted and burped their way through the evening! Hmmm! A good argument for increasing the gene pool in some rural areas!!

The best part of the evening was spending it having a meal with Birgitte (Danish) and Martin, a lovely couple living in London, both in the acting profession.

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 11

2010-10-31T14:33:00.000Z

Lord Stones Cafe

Day11 Sept 11 Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top 11mls 2545’ascent

Weather wet start then became dry and bright

I was dreading today, as my knees were still very swollen. A lot of ascent, and more worryingly, descent today, but a much more interesting day in prospect. The Cleveland Hills.

Wainstones

We woke to the sound of Blackpool Donkeys having their breakfast, singing songs, and taking their tents down in the rain! Sooo glad I’m not doing that!

First a climb up to Beacon Hill, laden with its famous transmitters, with forest trails, giving way to moorland. The purple heather was looking wonderful, and we passed a team of grouse-beaters at work, raising a few grouse for the shoot. Then up and down, and up and down, until we came across the terrific little Lord Stones café, hidden in the trees, which is a bit further than half-way. Time for a nice bit of soup for lunch and a cracking cuppa, and then off again

Up and down to the end of Cold Moor, finishing with the impressive Wainstones- rocky outcrops. A lot of up and down today, but better than I was expecting. Knees sore but responding to regular anti-inflammatories. Knee support making a huge difference also.

We were staying at Stuart and Judy’s B&B tonight, and we rang him beofr we dropped of Hasty Bank and lost signal. For £35, we were provided with B&B, transport from and back to Chop Gate, and transport to and from the pub at night where I enjoyed a very filling Chicken Parmo, a local delicacy. Fantastic. Nicest, most comfortable place to stay, and difficult to wrench yourself away from, after a hearty breakfast in the morning!

This was where my leg of the relay started from, when I ran it 30odd years ago, with Clayton Harriers. The Blackpool Donkeys had another long day today, because they were going all the way through to the Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge (21mls), but then they would have two shorter days- to Grosmont (65mls) and then RHB(15mls).

Lots of different ways of doing this final section. Still bumping into the same groups of people on route. Mum and daughter from Calver were staying in the same B&B and sharing lifts with us last night.

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 10

2010-10-31T14:23:00.000Z

Ingleby Cross and Blue Bell

Day 10 Sept10 Richmond to Ingleby Cross 22.7mls 560’ascent

Weather wet, then cloudy and mild later.

The most uninteresting, featureless, miserable part of the walk, but you do chalk up a good chunk of mileage, through the Vale of Mowbray. Arable/horrible land!!

Danby Whiske pub half-way, and lunch available. 8mls of boring road walking to follow. Most exciting bit was legging it across the busy A19 dual carriageway!

Relieved to arrive at the Blue Bell Inn, Ingleby Cross, where I’d booked B&B. Good place. Great food and good pub atmosphere, where we met all the usual suspects, Bamford Builders and Blackpool Donkeys, and Calver mum and daughter. Great atmosphere, chatting together. For me, one of the most important elements of the walk is socialising afterwards over a great pint! No sign of Danish and Beano, who, it transpired, had got very lost!

Not much else to say for today!!!

Apart from the fact that I’ve never had haute-cuisine pie, chips and peas before, served in beautifully presented little portions!

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 9

2010-10-31T14:19:00.000Z

Get Pints In....Richmond

Day 9 Sept 9 Reeth to Richmond 10mls 1100’ ascent

Weather Cold but sunny and windy

We walked along the river Swale towards Marrick Priory. Now an adventure centre, it was established in the 12th century, as a Benedictine Convent. Up through the wood over the 375 steps, known as the Nun’s Steps, and on to the village of Marske. Down to Clapgate Beck and the “Applegarth Riviera”, with magnificent views down to the river Swale all the way to Richmond, and its castle. A lovely easy day today. A day for ambling and enjoying. Not as dramatic as previous days, but pastoral and gentle.

Richmond is a bustling market- town, with all the facilities tired, sore bodies might require. So we opted for a new pair of socks, and a couple of pints! We were met by Ian at the pub. Hand-made, delicious cakes were on sale at the indoor market, so I bought a few for tonight’s pudding, as we wouldn’t be able to return to town this evening, the site being a least another 2mls away.

It wasn’t easy to find a site, but we opted for the nearest at Brompton-on-Swale. Ian and Colin headed straight back, but I opted for a little detour to Easby Abbey (ruins), and St Agatha’s Church. I’m glad I did, as the church, which dated back to the 10th century was full of marvellous medieval wall-paintings, dating back to 1205, depicting the story of Adam and Eve.. Then a lovely walk on through pastureland to the campsite.

Easby Abbey

This is not quite the route described by AW, which stays south of the river, whereas we’d had to go north slightly to find the site.

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 8

2010-10-31T14:13:00.000Z

Campsite Keld

Day 8 Sept 8 Keld to Reeth 11mls and 1790’ascent, depending upon which route you take

Weather Misty, damp and autumnal

Both routes start the same. We began today by watching sheep being rounded up by quads and ten sheepdogs, working in pairs, and driven over the narrowest of bridges. Just below Crackpot Hall, the route divides and you decide whether you want to follow the river Swale, or take the higher level route through the abandoned lead mines. We opted for the higher route with stunning views over the river valley. In the end, we made a mistake, and found a third route, through farms and villages. As it was, I’m not sure it was such a bad mistake, as the route through the mines sounded like a bit of an ordeal, being rough underfoot, and AW does recommend you find your own way! But the point is, that in many places the route is unmarked and indistinct.

Our route took us a lovely pastoral way, through Gunnerside and Heerlaugh, very quiet, isolated hamlets, all the time following the river Swals but from a higher level.

Crackpot Hall

We met Ian at Orchard Park caravan and camping site, in Reeth, set in an orchard, but quite difficult to find. Reeth seemed like a lovely place, with a village green and a couple of pubs. Ian and Colin went for a pint at the Black Bull. Danish Pastry and Beano recommended this as a place to stay, with the best pub food so far.

I stayed at the van, with frozen peas plonked on my knees again!

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 7

2010-10-31T14:06:00.000Z

Nine Standards Rigg

Sept 7 Day 7 Kirkby Stephen to Keld 13mls 1690’ascent

Weather bright and breezy

Woke to a much better morning than expecting. After calling at the Chemists for knee supports and anti-inflammatories for very swollen knees, we were raring to go.

Kirkby Stephen is a lovely little market town, well off the beaten track, and a bit like stepping back in time, in a nice way.

Prospect of a very boggy terrain ahead.

It was an exhilarating walk up to the Nine Standards Rigg, very unusual stone cairns, approx 12’ tall, standing in a row on the brow of the hill overlooking the Eden Valley. They are visible for miles around. The next section of the walk follows a number of different routes, depending upon the time of year. From August to November you take the blue route, which takes you over boggy terrain and down into the delightful Whitsundale Beck. Although our feet were soaked it wasn’t as bad as we were expecting, as we dropped down to Ravenseat, and Amanda’s tea-rooms, as seen on TV. Sitting outside at a picnic table, laden with cream tea, home-made strawberry jam and delicious home-made scones, in the afternoon sunshine, in this beautiful stretch of countryside that I’d never seen before….I thought I was in heaven. Birgitta and Martin, alias Danish Pastry and Beano, clearly thought the same, as they were grinning from ear to ear. Worth the effort.

Ravenseats Cream Tea

We continued on following the Swale down towards Keld, past a series of waterfalls. Passed a really nice campsite, Park House, where the Blackpool Donkeys were staying, on the left approaching Keld. Then passed Butts House B&B and then onto our campsite, Park Lodge. A bit basic, but superbly situated with views down the valley to Swaledale. Called in at the Keld Lodge Hotel for a pint. Nice place but expensive.

What a wonderful place Swaledale is! The Lakes are magnificent, but Swaledale is magical also! Keld- a tiny little hamlet in an unspoilt area, which I know I’ll visit again soon.

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 6

2010-10-31T14:00:00.000Z

Crossing the M6 at Shap

Day 6 Sept 6 Shap to Kirkby Stephen 19.8mls 1755’ascent

Weather Cloudy and breezy

Another long day but much less climbing than we’re used to and much easier under-foot. Consequently a bit faster!

Today’s route began straight opposite the pub, over the M6 and skirted the Hardendale quarry. A far cry from the beauty of the lakes, but still a wild and lonely place. Looking back we could see High Street and the distinct promontory of Kidsty Pike. Already beginning to miss the Lakes, but looking forward to the scenery to come. Looking ahead and to our right we could clearly see the Howgills, getting closer and closer as we approached the village of Orton, where we stocked up on sandwiches and drinks for lunch. On past Sunbiggin Tarn, which sounds more scenic than it is, and on to Smardale. Descending to Smardale Bridge, and looking across the valley to the hillside ahead, you can make out two large earth mounds, 15m by 3m, known as the Giant’s Beds, of unknown origin, although they are certainly not what their name suggests! Wainwright remarks that this section of the walk contains a number of sites of prehistoric and primitive settlements, if you know what you’re looking for!

With a view down the valley to Smardale viaduct, we began the last climb of the day up Smardale fell, where we met up with Ian, who had spent the previous night back at Grasmere (while we were at Shap). He walked with us over the fell and into the village of Kirkby Stephen. As the campsite was some distance outside the village, we opted for a pint and some fish and chips, (though not in the chippy frequented by AW, as that one was closed), before the long walk on to the campsite. Pennine View campsite- Good site and good facilities, but the weather turned very nasty during the night with strong winds and rain. Poor Colin was stuck in the tent!

Alternatives- The Black Bull pub where we had a pint and met Steve from Leeds, who was finishing half-way today and returning for the second half at a later date. Also B&B at Redmayne House, recommended by the “Blackpool Donkeys”, on Silver St, £28 per night and large bath! Could do with a bath now, rather than showers!

Absolutely shattered tonight and quite low. Extremely sore knees. Went to bed with frozen peas on my knees!

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 5

2010-10-31T13:50:00.000Z

Kidsty Pike

Day 5 Patterdale to Shap 16miles 3265’ ascent

Weather sunny and breezy

Prospect of a tough, long day, with a continuous climb for 5miles up to Kidsty Pike, passing the delightful Angle Tarn, with views down to Brotherswater So lucky. Again, a beautiful, sunny start. Felt a bit sad to say goodbye to the crags and the mountains, but pleased to have easier walking ahead. Up and over The Knott, and at the Straits of Riggindale, there was a sharp left turn, which we missed and started climbing up High Street. We’d not gone far before we realised something wasn’t right. We should be able to see Kidsty and we couldn’t. We were joined by Martin and Birgitta, who we were to get to know better over the coming days and nicknamed them Danish Pastry and Beano, on account of Birgitta being Danish and martin wearing a stripy hat. Martin found it interesting that the four of us had a different take on where we were. The fact that all four of us weren’t sure where we were was certainly interesting! On turning around, we realised that a steady stream of wanderers were all continuing in the opposite direction and the Pike could be seen very clearly in the distance!

Photo call on the top of the pike and then a steep descent down to Haweswater reservoir and a long walk around the edge to Burn Banks.

Goodbye to the Lakes and then next 5 miles takes you over lovely pastoral land, following becks and streams, and ending up at Shap Abbey. I never knew this place existed and what a little jewel at the end of a hard day. Destroyed by Henry VIII, it dates back to the 12th century.

We walked along the A6, the highest main road in the country, through Shap and on to the Kings Arms. The departure tomorrow is right opposite the pub. The pub was great, with welcoming staff, great, inexpensive food and lovely en-suite room. After a couple of pints and beef and ale suet pie, chips and peas, off to bed early, full, clean and sore feet and knees! Up and off early tomorrow- 6.15 for 7 am breakfast and another long day.

Angle Tarn

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 4

2010-10-31T13:44:00.001Z

Looking back into Grasmere

Day 4 Grasmere to Patterdale 8.5miles 1635’ ascent

Weather gloriously sunny

Later start because there’s no need to rush another lovely day. Off at 9am. Lovely climb up Tongue Gill to Grisedale Pass and Grisedale Tarn. Two alternatives here. The main path takes you past Ruthwaite Lodge shelter and follows Grisedale Beck into Patterdale. Or you could climb Helvellyn, which means descending the precipitous Striding Edge, or you could climb St Sunday Crag, two ridge walk alternatives into Patterdale. We took the view that we’d earned our stripes on the second day, and that both these ridge walks would be lovely day walks in their own right. But in view of the fact that we still had 9 more days walking to complete, and that tomorrow’s walk took us over Kidsty Pike and was 16miles, we decided to play safe and take it easy today, and stuck to the route following Grisedale Beck. We were collected in Patterdale by Ian, who had found a site some distance away at Matterdale. It’s a bit remote here and few sites.With lovely views over Ullswater, with the Steamboat sailing across the water, we drove to our site at Troutbect in Matterdale, between Penrith and Keswick. New boots felt brilliant but feet really sore. Sore knees too- slept with frozen peas on them during the night!

Heavy pack tomorrow, as we overnight at a pub in Shap. After two short easier days, two longer days in prospect- 16 and 20miles and what would have been the highest point of the route, Kidsty Pike, had we not done the higher alternative on Day2.

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 3

2010-10-31T13:40:00.001Z

Rushup Edge

Day 3 Rosthwaite to Grasmere 7miles 2000’ ascent

Weather warm and sunny

An easier day today. I’d practised this section before, from Rosthwaite to Patterdale in one go, and it proved a hard 15 miles. I’d already made the decision to break it up at Grasmere, if we could find an overnight camp. It seemed a shame to rush trough the Lakes, and I don’t think I’ve ever spent much time in Grasmere. So two easier days in store. Probably as well, because yesterday’s enthusiasm in the high hills had taken its toll on knees and feet! Couldn’t face my boots today, and opted for trainers.

Beautiful walk up alongside Stonethwaite Beck and Greenup Gill, with delightful views back to Borrowdale. You can’t help feeling quite sad that you’ll not be seeing these sights again. This is a one way journey, and you’re leaving Borrowdale behind. But not for long. Ian and I both like coming up here for a couple of nights, in the van, to do some walking. Round Eagle Crag and a little scramble up Lining Crag, over Greenup Edge and down to Easedale. With hindsight, and a better pair of boots, I wish we’d gone over Gibson Knott and Helm Crag (the Lion and the Lamb0 and would definitely do that next time. It looks like a more pleasant route than the direct scramble down Far Easedale.

We landed in Grasmere nice and early, and this was like Shangri-la for three reasons. Firstly I managed to get my feet measured and bought a new pair of Meindl, light-weight walking shoes in the sale for a bargain price of £45. Not being waterproof, they would have been risky, but lucky for me this was to be the driest 13days walking ever. Interesting that I had been wearing a pair of boots at least one whole size too small, so no wonder I was single-handedly supporting the blister plaster industry! Secondly, Ian managed to find a club site in a playing field in the centre of Grasmere. The Caravan Club were having a rally, which they do a couple of times a year, and we were so lucky to be able to stay. Ian returned later. They’re having another rally at Easter, so we’ll be back for that. Thirdly, a hotel/bar five minutes walk away were holding a beer festival, with 30odd guest beers! Wow- one guess where we ended up that afternoon and evening. BBQ outside by the van, in the evening sunshine. Later that night, standing in a beer test with a live, blue grass band playing and the prospect of more good weather to come. It doesn’t get much better than this! We’ve only been to the Lakes a few times this year and nearly every time has been great weather, but I never expected it to be this good.

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 2

2010-10-31T13:36:00.001Z

Blackbeck Tarn Haystacks

Day 2 Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite via the high-level alternative route 18.5miles

Weather- warm and sunny

We’re amazingly lucky to wake up to another bright day. We’d decided to do the alternative high level route if at all possible, because it takes you via Haystacks and Innominate Tarn, where Wainwright’s ashes were scattered.

1.5miles to Ennerdale Bridge, and then a 5mile tricky trudge around the south shore of Ennerdale Water. Next time I’d probably walk along the forest road on the north shore, because it was a difficult bit and you couldn’t enjoy the views because you had to watch every footfall. But there were spectacular views up to High Stile and Pillar, and you get a real feeling of remoteness here, that you don’t get in some parts of the Lakes.

Leaving the lakeside, we began the steep climb up to Red Pike. Towards the top, I realised that my camera must have slipped off the strap at the bottom of the hill. I wasn’t going to go back down for it, and lucky for me, the guy from Leeds who we met last night had picked it up and was following us up the hill. Phew!!

Up and down to High Crag, and a steep descent off to Haystacks and a little pause at Innominate Tarn. Wouldn’t want to do this in poor visibility. The top of Haystacks and the route off seemed very confusing and indistinct. Wainwright’s resting place is awesome, especially on such a clear, sunny day, with the surrounding mountains reflected in the dark water of the tarn.

The trouble with navigation is distances and working out how fast you’re moving. Carrying about 15pounds in weight, the answer is not very fast, about 2mph, including food, drink and navigation stops. We were consistently not a far on route as we thought we were. There are absolutely, and quite rightly no waymarkers in this section. We got very lost in Honister quarry, failing to find the Brandreth fence, Drum House and the old tramway and playing safe by trudging all the way down the road from the quarry. A miserable end to a wonderful day on the hills.

We finally arrived at our re-union with Ian, at the campsite at Chapel House farm, Borrowdale, at 1930, after walking for 10.5 hours. Absolutely spent. Ian was getting worried about us!

Very, very, very sore and blistered feet. Sore, inflamed knees. Asked Ian to get two packets of frozen peas for them!!

Coast to Coast Sept 2010 Day 1

2010-10-31T13:31:00.001Z

Ready for off - St Bees Head

As a member of Clayton Harriers running club, I once took part in a relay event from the west coast of England to the east. Specifically, my involvement was a 20mile stretch across the North York Moors, finishing in Glaisdale. With Ian as my partner, we took the pebble “baton” from the previous runner, and completed the section in the fastest 20miles I’ve ever run-- . I always said I’d return one day to do the whole route, as a walk, and thirty odd years later, I finally got around to doing it! So here’s the record of that walk.

Ian offered to support and bring the campervan to cut down costs. He didn’t want to do the walk, because after the delights of the Lakes section, the rest of it would be “tedious”. Our mate, Colin, was up to the challenge. Wainwright would have approved. T’owd fella disapproved of groups of walkers, but conceded that if you must take a friend, it ought to be a “silent” one- Colin met this requirement perfectly. As he was to remark on numerous occasions later, I could talk for the both of us!!

Sept 1/ Day 1/Almost the end of the school summer break (so hopefully things would be a lot quieter)

St Bees Head to Ennerdale Bridge- 14.5 miles`2315’ ascent

Weather- bright and sunny- good start

After spending the night at Colin’s, in Lancashire, we set off just after 7am for Whitehaven and St Bees on the west coast of Cumbria. What an out-of-the-way place! You get to the Lakes and then a longer way over to the coast to what feels like a dead-end. Finally arrived at the start for about 10am. Quiet, quaint and unspoilt, a stretch too far for most people to travel to a beach. Pretty village, with St Bees Head promontory towering over the long, grey beach.

Quick cuppa and then off we go, with a very important detour to collect a pebble from the beach, to be thrown into the sea at Robin Hoods Bay 13 days later. The walk hugs the coast, and, similar to the stretch near RHB, it sends you about 3miles in the opposite direction! You don’t mind though. It’s a lovely day, and not a stretch to be rushed. With clear views of the Isle of Man, about 30miles away, and the later views north to the Solway Firth, it is a wonderful start. The sky is blue and it’s exciting to know that we’ll be covering some of the quietest and more remote parts of three busy national parks- the Lakes, the Yorkshire dales and the North York moors.

We pass through the quiet little towns of Sandwith and Cleator, ex-mining towns. On this stretch the C2C is well-marked, but we manage a bit of a wrong turn, but after a bit of a detour, start to ascend Dent, a welcome change from the flat,urban land previously. A steep descent and scramble into Nannycatch Gate, as pretty as its name suggests, a lovely little ravine and stream. We followed the beck for what seemed like ages, but was in fact only a couple of miles. After almost 7hours of walking we arrived at the B&B, Low Cock How Farm, Kinniside, our first stop. Large place with bunkhouse. Very friendly welcome, and a cuppa made for us the minute we arrived. Hearty evening meal, pre-booked, and packed lunch for tomorrow. Only down-side- loo downstairs! No mobile phone signal. Decided to walk to the pub in Ennerdale Bridge, but took a wrong turn at the end of the drive, and after 3miles, gave up and returned thirsty. In view of the loo arrangement, maybe that wasn’t such a bad thing. Hope our map-reading improves!!

At the evening meal, we got a foretaste of the variety of nationalities who undertake this walk. There was a couple from Atlanta, a guy from Melboune, who did n’t seem to be in good health, and spent ages in the bathroom, where he’d made himself right at home with his wash-bag etc .More of that later!! We were told that Bill Bryson was 2 days ahead of us, walking for a cancer charity.

Lovely couple who ran the B&B. They told us about Cleator “Little Ireland”, an iron-mining town. This is quite a poor area, not touristy, totally dependent upon the nuclear power station at Sellafield, which currently employs about 7000 people. Crucial for the town’s economy.

Only Day 1 and thank god for Compeed blister plasters!!!

Murren - Schilthorn

2010-07-07T19:17:00.000+01:00

Murren-Schilthorn

We woke to a beautiful, clear blue sky, and so set off, sandwiches made and packed for a great day out in the mountains. A different walk to yesterday, not as much distance, but a good climb up Schilthorn, about the equivalent to climbing Ben Nevis, when starting at the lovely little village of Murren. The journey from Grutschalp to Murren is breath-taking, with clear, close views of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. I think it’s one of the best views around.

We chose the longer route via the Rotstockhutte, which takes you over delightful pastures, meadows, climbing higher and higher, pausing to turn around and admire the views of the mountains, and the meadow flowers, the Blumental. Stunning!

Then up and up, past the Hutte, where people can opt to stay for refreshments, and even overnight, if they want to experience the still of the mountain evening.

Up and up, and you cold clearly make out the Piz Gloria on the top of Scilthorn, with its James Bond connection. Then a scramble over scree. The last hour is an exciting climb using via ferrata and stairways up the mountain-side. Hard, but much easier going up than down. No blisters, and no strain on the knees. Really enjoyed it, and reached the top in just over four hours. Down by cable-cars and train to Lauterbrunnen, to a very hot afternoon, and a beer. Germany play Spain tonight, so a trip to the camp bar and restaurant might be called for!

First Faulhorn Scynigge Platte

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First-Faulhorn-Schynigge Platte

Train to Grindelwald, and then the most amazing cable-car up to First. It’s a long ride, so you can relax and enjoy the views, climbing to over 2000m. An amazing piece of engineering.

A challenging, long walk but not much climbing. Weather not as good as last time we did it, with only brief glimpses of Eiger and later Lake Brienzersee. But a good walk of about 5hours+ . Met a couple along the way from San Diego, and chatted for a while. We’ve come across quite a few Americans and Japanese visitors today. In spite of limited views, the wild and alpine flowers have been wonderful, which was the main reason for coming at this time. Lots of tiny little phloxes and gentians in the scree and hundreds of others all over the meadows of the Platte. Lucky cows being able to munch such sweet-smelling grass and flowers!

2010-07-07T19:04:00.000+01:00

Grutschalp-Lobhornhutte-Sulwald-Isenfluh_Lauterbrunnen

A tough first day, with views of the Jungfrau and Mannlichen mountains, through the swirling mist and cloud. Out for just over 5 hours, tired and with sore feet, and that’s the first day!

Good atmosphere at the campsite, with two coach-loads of 18-25s con-tiki explorers from New Zealand and Australia. Loads of tents. Great to hear aussie accents and young people again, after being surrounded by retired, older people in France!

After a day chilling..

2010-07-07T17:03:00.000+01:00

After a day chilling (or not, as it’s got really hot!), at Thonon-les-Bains, a genteel place on the banks of Lac Leman, swimming in the lake and relaxing, we set off for Swirtzerland.

Good to be back at Camping Jungfrau, Lauterbrunnen, where we stayed for a week last September. We bought our six-day rail and cable car passes to start tomorrow, and then just walked up to Wengen to stretch our legs.

They’ve thought of everything at Camping Jungfrau. From the moment you arrive, you feel relaxed and taken care of. Their welcome is superb. The office was closed until 3pm, and it was only 12.30om, but we relaxed and had a great lunch of beer and rosti, a delicious potato dish, whilst the owner called someone to show us to our pitch, as soon as we were ready. Brilliant!

Stage 11 La Clusaz to Thonon and FINISH!

2010-07-03T15:02:00.000+01:00

Ian writes - The final day and not off to a good start. Just like the first leg I took a wrong turn at the beginning and went downhill for nearly six miles when realised I had gone seriously wrong. Meant I had to turn around and cycle uphill over 1000ft to get back to start point. Anyway persevered and on a very hot day, I cycled to Bonneville and then over two passes until a great 13 km descent into Thonon les Bains - the finish and a dip in the lake. It was beautiful, so much so that Marie went for a morning swim the day after and swam 2 miles!The temperature is so much hotter here than in the mountains, at least 28 degrees.I covered nearly 60 miles today and over 4000ft of ascent ( 10 miles longer than needed to be!)

For those "anoraks" like me the average daily mileage for the 11 stages was 41 miles and 4400 ft of ascent. Total mileage for the trip including detours etc was 579 miles and a whopping 62300 ft of ascent! We are now off to Lauterbrunnen in the Swiss Bernese Oberland to do some walking.

Stage 10 Beaufort to La Clusaz

2010-07-03T13:53:00.000+01:00

Stage 10 Beaufort to La Clusaz

We started off the day together, as I was determined to get up the Col de Saisies, with Ian. When I say with Ian, I obviously only mean in spirit- I’m not that optimistic. As it was, even though it was my third consecutive cycle, with plenty of climbing, (something I try to stat clear of), I managed it much better than I expected. Must be getting fitter! With a pleasant gradient of 7% and 8% most of the way, I reached the top a mere 15mins behind Ian! Shocked!! It is a lovely climb with superb views all the way up. Then Ian continued down into Flumet, a lovely town, along the Gorges de l’Arondine (really dramatic and steep-sided), through the lovely La Giettaz(Tour de France goes through here on 13July),up the Col des Aravis (1486m), and tdown the other side to La Clusaz and then on to the campsite at Le Fernuy, in the val des Confins. Great views up the jagged teeth of the Chaine des Aravis mountains. Very different to other mountains around, jagged and volcanic-looking!

Very hot today, and I was concerned about Ian climbing in the heat of the day. Glad we didn’t plan to come any later, purely luck really, but it gets very hot in the afternoon, so you need to be off by 8ish.

Just accept that nothing will be open until July, and relaxed back at the van, cooked, washed, blogged etc. All the drive over have got the impression that everything is being made ready for the short season of “les grandes vacances”, early July until September. So basically, cater for yourself and don’t expect anywhere to be open, unless you’re in biggish town. Curious. If this was Mallorca, they’d be open and ready for business, but there you go! There is a curious attitude towards tourism in France, which is like nowhere else. The Dutch people we met said the same thing, and remarked about the inflexibility of the French culture, but loved visiting the place nevertheless!!

Can’t believe it’s Ian’s last day tomorrow! Bought a bottle of Cremant de Bourgogne sparkling wine to celebrate, but it all feels a bit sad that this part of the adventure is coming to a close. Mind you that’s easy for me to say, I’m not the one with a sore a***se!! Thanks for the Sudocrem suggestion, new-grandma Caroline!!.

Rest Day

2010-07-03T13:48:00.000+01:00

“Rest Day” aka “More Flippin’ Hills”

We’d always planned to spend an extra day in Beaufort, having really enjoyed being here last year. Camping des Sources lives up to its name, with several mountain rivulets channelling into the site, and the proprietor has cleverly engineered and planned his delightful garden-site around them. There are several hand-made troughs fed by taps, concealed in “arms” of wood, which hang over the top. There are lovely flowers planted all over and the owners have considered everything that campers might need- simple things like hooks for you to hang your clothes on when having a shower! Loo roll is provided. Delivery of wonderful beaufortain bread and croissants, even though it’s not July yet, and even walking guide books. All this and a cheery smile and conversation, and one of the cheapest sites around. The site is only about one quarter full, which we have found is typical of this time of year, but she explained that July and August get very busy.

After a leisurely breakfast, we set off on a blue sky morning and explored the Haute Savoie, particularly HauteLuce Valley and on up towards the Col du Joly. The Savoy area is very much like Switzerland, very pastoral, dairy-farming, big on cheese. Famous cheese from here- Reblochon, a soft creamy cheese, a bit smoother than brie, and Tomme, a harder white cheese, delicious! The cows all tinkle around all day and evening with their cow bells. In some places, although the cutting of the grass is all done by tractor, the threshing seems to be done by hand.

Running out of time and energy, we made the decision to head for home. As it turned out, we were cycling ahead of another afternoon storm. This seems to be the pattern in the mountains at the moment. The storms only last for an hour or two, and give way to a lovely sunny evening and cool night. That said we still have unfinished business here, and will be back to cycle up the Col du Joly in the future. It’s quite a toughy. Ian tried it late in the day last year, and had to postpone.

In spite of our efforts to make it an easier day, we still ended up climbing more than we anticipated, 4200’ and very tired. Also getting very hot pm, if you don’t set off early enough.

Stage 9 Bourg St Maurice to Beaufort

2010-06-29T16:24:00.003+01:00

Stage 9 Bourg St Maurice – Beaufort

The homeward stretches now, and an easy and semi-relaxing day. A short stage for Ian over the Cormet de Roseland, the route of last year’s Tour de France, and at 1960m., not a climb to be underestimated. On to a campsite near Beaufort, Camping des Sources, where we stayed for five nights, so familiar territory.

A narrow pass up to the col, and in some ways more difficult to negotiate than the road up to Iseran, because it’s barely wide enough for two small vehicles, let alone a campervan, but I tucked in behind a lorry climbing the hill, and if anyone was going to have to reverse, it wouldn’t be him!

After setting up the van at the site, and I put in an order for baguette beaufortaine ( a delicious baguette full of beaufort cheese and lardons), croissants and pains au chocolat for the following day. What a great service that is at campsites – fresh bread and breakfast delivered to your van in the morning. Then cycling kit on and off up to the Cormet de Roseland from my side. I passed Ian on the way down,and he was finished by 11.30am. He’d done well and now could rest for the rest of the day. I made it to the top without much stress and was back by 1.30pm, so we both just relaxed and did some reading. Definitely best to get out early am., as it gets windier by the afternoon, and busier, with motor-bikes zipping past trying to bag another col

On the way over we’d both spotted a superb spot, to be investigated another time, near Les Chapieux/ Val des Glaciers. A good spot for campervans, with an auberge and immediate access to the mountains. A great place for getting into the mountains and on the Tour de Mont Blanc walki.

Ian says: A relatively easy day with only 24miles and 3750ft of ascent. Great descent overlooking Roselend valley. Passed several people on the way up. Three of them were under 10yrs old., with their Mum and Dad- they start them young here! Fancy doing a 3000+ ft climb at that age- one of them only looked 7! Marie had seen them labouring up the hill and given them a thumb’s up and the usual “Allez y”!

A great day for Kate! What an achievement. She got a first class honours in her accountancy degree at Leeds. She worked extremely hard and we’re glad it paid off . “I’m so excited, I can hardly breathe!” she said.

Stage 8 Col d'Iseran

2010-06-29T16:21:00.001+01:00

Stage 8 Lanslevillard to Bourg St Maurice via Col d’Iseran

Aka Ian’s Big Day (and Tommy’s ultimate challenge!)

The reason why I say Ian’s big day is that he’s cycling over the highest pass in Europe today, at 2760m! And that after all the big cols he’s already climbed, and approx 300 miles covered. Amazing! Not only that, Tommy the Timbervan is about to have a big adventure climbing the exact same route. I set off a little later than Ian, and caught him half-way up the pass, with glorious views either side. Meadows of wild flowers and then alpine flowers as we started to gain height- white pasque flowers, purple aconites, wild thyme everywhere.

I waited for him at the top, with fruit cake and orange juice and fizzy water at the ready. The climb just goes on and on, but wow what views. Photos of Ian taken on the way up and then the obligatory one of him standing with bike, near the Col d’Iseran sign. I was so proud of him, and he looked well and relaxed, even though he said it had been really hard. It’s worth mentioning here that Ian always wears a heart monitor and regularly checks that his heart stays around the 145 bpm mark on a climb. I’d love to have a go at this next year, but need to get more cycling and climbing done before then!

Ten minutes rest and then all the way back down the valley to Bourg St Maurice, following the path of the river Isere, through Val d’Isere (not much to say about that place, big, commercial, purpose-built town with unattractive massive hotels on the exit), through Tignes, with its impressive dam, and through the pretty Ste.Foy-Tarentaise to Seez on the outskirts of Bourg St Maurice. Lovely site –Le Reclus, in amongst the shade of the pine trees, which is as well, as it’s the hottest day since we arrived or is it just that we are now a bit lower down than we have been for some time (about 900m). Off to find a bar, as England are playing today against Germany. Passed a big Heineken tent in Seez full of German tourists. Not sure we really ought to be there, especially as they were “going for it”, when I went through at 12.30pm and the match isn’t until 4pm here!!! Might not have much choice as most of the touristy bars haven’t got going yet until first week in July!

Ian says: I had hardly got out of campsite when I had to get in first gear and climb 200 metres. I hate that – you cannot get warmed up and everything hurts straightaway.

Anyway grind my way to top stopping twice (heart beat definitely more than 145 bpm!). It is a fantastic climb – well above some snow patches – there were people skiing. As I may have said before descent isn’t pleasant as you have to be braking continuously, this for 6700 ft of descent! Your hands kill. I am definitely on home straight now with climb to Cormet de Roseland tomorrow, one we know well from last year.